Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Jacket #2



The jacket is done. The only thing left is to cut open my buttonholes and give the whole thing a good pressing. Right now the jacket is pinned together, crooked, and left over right.

Something didn't turn out right with the collar. I don't know yet whether it was me or the pattern. It's supposed to meet closer together, but it doesn't. I used a straight size 18 neckhole and collar pieces with no changes (well, except to divide the undercollar in 2, add a seam allowance, and cut the pieces on the bias). The two neck edges should've fit together as designed but they didn't, which I didn't notice until it was too late.

And while the look of the collar on the envelope was one of my favorite things about this jacket, what I ended up with doesn't look bad and in reality, I'll probably wear it more like this anyway:



So, I won't stress about it, and I'll make a note for next time. At least I remembered to hand sew on the top button so there is no thread showing on the wrong side. Thankfully the brain was in gear today.

Here's the lining. My first *fully* lined jacket, sleeves and everything. All done by machine. The fiddly bit at the join of the facing and collar went much, much smoother this time. And now this blue fabric is out of the stash. It's definitely one of those "What was I thinking?" pieces. I bought it about 5-6 years ago, back when I first started sewing. It's been taking up stash space for a long time.



While at Joann's for buttons this morning, I flipped through the Butterick pattern catalog to look at two of the suggestions for copying my RTW dress (5206 and 4976), and instead came home with 5001.



All similar patterns I've looked at will need some sort of modification, but I think B5001 will need the least changes. The Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Cosmopolitan dress was tempting after seeing all the various makes of it on PatternReview and blogs, but I decided against that one too.

My actual dress is very similar to B5001, with the shirred outer wrap.


As you can see by the pattern pieces, cutting a separate contrast waistband from the skirt pieces will be easy. And this pattern is already a plus size pattern so it should start with a little extra room in the bust area. I'm hoping the knit I use will account for the remainder needed. We'll see. Making this dress isn't near the top of the list yet, so it will be a while since I'll soon be sewing around a job.



Parting Shot: What my sewing table looks like after I finish a project. Those are various muslins wadded up in the foreground. Two for the dress I'll get back to and one for the latest jacket, and probably another I'm forgetting. Time to straighten up and begin the next project.

15 comments:

  1. Congratulations on your first lined jacket! I quite like the lining fabric - a nice surprise inside.

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  2. Jacket looks great. I'm sure it looks even better on you. Gee, you seem to have the same working relationship with cleaning up as you sew that I do. My excess is usually hung over the balcony wall. It looks so wonderful from the living room.

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  3. Looks wonderful! I love the contrast between the jacket and the lining! The jacket says "I'm capable and stylish", and the lining says "Look at me! I'm purty!" I love fun linings inside structured garments! Someday, maybe I'll figure out how to do it...

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  4. Debbie - I have B5001. I haven't made it yet because last summer I walked behind so many plus size women in knit dresses and the back views SCARED and SCARRED me! Two hams fighting to get out is putting it mildly...so I will be interested in seeing how you work with this one. This baby has back and I haven't yet figured out a way for it not to SCAR someone else!

    BTW, I like the jacket with the notched collar view and the buttons are very KEWL!

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  5. Congrats on your first lined jacket! I told you they get easier. ;-) FWIW I like your jacket. I think the shape and colour are very nice and I like the surprise lining. It will go with lots of different outfits.

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  6. The jacket turned out lovely. I like your choice of buttons, it brings a bit of pep in to this more neutral style

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  7. I can relate to the sewing room after the project but since I most of the time take over my formal living room the sight is breath taking here during and after anythng gets sewed. Btw I like your new jacket and the lining. mssewcrazy

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  8. It's a beautiful jacket and I am looking forward to seeing it on you! I happen to like the collar that way, even if it doesn't join. I mean, there are plenty of jackets where the collar doesn't join and I thought that was on purpose.
    Love your lining too. I like contrasting, printed linings more and more.

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  9. I came here to say exactly what Vicki said, "Congratulations on your first fully lined jacket!"
    And I've been trying to study the line drawings at Simplicity, (without much luck) re the collar. I don't think you did anything wrong, if anything, I think the line drawings may have been a tad misleading. Because the way the collar frames the edge of the button band is exactly how it would be drafted. It's just that those are wide buttons, and a big button band (I know, it's only a suggestion of a button band, since it's integral to the jacket) - anyway, my point is - it looks right.
    LOL, my sewing table looks a bit worse than that right now, and I haven't been close to it in over 2 weeks now. ;(

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  10. I really like the open lapel look on your jacket. And, from a fellow warm-climate person, it looks like it will be lightweight and easy to wear. Congrats on the lining project on it. I also love surprise printed or colorful linings!

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  11. I really like your jacket and I prefer it with the top button open. It's a very flattering jacket and I look forward to seeing you in it. As a luxury sized woman, I would wear the knit dress in that pattern (actually I'm putting it on my list). It is definately a matter of wearing the correct undergarments and having it fit without being too tight (not a problem with your skills). Also, you look great in the dress you purchased so why wouldn't it look great. All that being said, my sister (another luxury sized woman -- though smaller than me) can not wear knit dresses no matter what undergarments she puts on. It's dressing what we have with what looks best.... Good luck in the career sewing (where I do a lot) and in the career.

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  12. Debbie - I think the jacket turned out beautifully. I can't wait to see the finished outfit. Are you feeling up to sending your resume yet? g

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  13. Great job on your lined jacket - I like it a lot, especially the lining. I made B5001 and let me tell you, it sews up very quickly. I used a knit, and serged just about the entire dress. I posted photos about two weeks ago.

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  14. That's my sewing room right now too. I just finished up the mini-wardrobe contest for PR and now I am taking a break from sewing and doing a much-needed cleaning and sorting.

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  15. I like the jacket better with the collar folded back, as in your second picture. I can't stand things around my nect - I get claustrophobic in a turtleneck. This is really pretty. Great color and styling!

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Thank you for each and every comment. I appreciate them all, but I have to be honest and let you know that I'm usually bad about answering questions. I hope you understand that there just isn't enough time in the day to do everything I want to do.

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