Friday, May 20, 2011

See & Sew 5593 Round 2 - Another Winner!

This is my new favorite pattern, and I owe it to Sherril for making it up and recommending it. Truthfully, I never look at See & Sew patterns but I think I should at least glance at them now from time to time.

Here's the front. As you can see, I added sleeves. I wanted this dress to be office-friendly without another layer. I swiped the top-gathered sleeve pattern from my ever-trusty TNT Ottobre 02/2007 tee pattern. You know the one that Belinda and I have made at least six zillion times now.

Click any photo for a larger view

Here's the back. It's got a CB seam which I did account for when cutting the fabric. I think I matched things up pretty well, and even though the "stripes" look off-center in this pic, the thinner stripe really does hit at exact center in real life, just the way I wanted.


When I made the first version of this dress, I was tempted to lay the back piece on the fold but I'm glad I didn't. There is subtle shaping in the CB seam and that shaping gives me a little waist definition in the back and adds to the swish factor of the skirt.

Here's a close-up of the sleeve cap, but it's still hard to see that it's gathered. 


I also made a stand-alone "scarf." I use that term lightly because it's really just an 8"-wide length of fabric, folded in half with shaped ends. I wanted an extra something to add when wearing a jacket. Which brings me to my question for all of you …

Which do you like better? The green jacket — there *is* green in the dress print which isn't showing as much in these pics as it does in real life.


Or the brown jacket?


I'm thinking I like the green jacket for warmer temps like NOW and I like the unexpected color and contrast. The brown jacket seems more autumn/winter to me, even if the temps don't drop too much most days here in Florida. If it matters, the browns match perfectly between jacket and dress. I'm curious to see your opinions but I won't promise they will change my mind. ;-)

On to some construction details …

As a full-busted girl, crossover tops do tend to gape and/or expose too much. And since I used a cheater FBA of just adding gradual length across the bottom of the upper bodice pattern piece, I knew the neckline would need some help to stay snugged-in. I eliminated the front neckline facings and used clear elastic instead.

Because the clear elastic I was using is 3/8" wide, I trimmed 2/8" (1/4") from the 5/8" seam allowance on the neckline so I could just lay the elastic at the edge to attach it and then folding it over would net me the same neckline width as the original pattern. Got that? ;-)


I used a small ZZ stitch to attach the elastic. I left a long tail at the start so I would have something to grab onto when starting. I used my Teflon foot since clear elastic does not usually feed smoothly under a regular presser foot. While stitching it onto the neckline edge, I pulled the elastic very taut to build in some "snugging-in" when worn against my chest. If you look closely at the elastic edge below, you can see that it is slightly rippled. I also left a tail at the finishing end so I would have a holding-on point when coverstitching the neckline, but you can't see that in the pics.


Because there *is* now some stretch and a slight gather built into the neckline edge after attaching the clear elastic and I didn't want to wrestle the neckline while doing the coverstitching, I cheated and used some Collins Wonder Tape. Here it is below with the paper still on and before I folded the neckline edge over. Again, you can see some slight rippling which is a Good Thing for wearing, but not so good for turning and stitching without stopping and readjusting every couple of inches w/o the Wonder Tape.


Here's the neckline edge folded over and stuck down onto the Wonder Tape. It's now ready for coverstitching (or topstitching if you don't have a CS machine).


Sewing the shoulder seam like this *is* covered in the pattern directions, but I took pics anyway. The red line below is the finished edge of the front bodice. You can see that the back shoulder is sticking out 5/8" (the seam allowance) past this. The pins are holding my shoulder gathers in place until I sew the shoulder seam. Just be sure you leave the 5/8" seam allowance as shown when you sew the shoulder seam for this view so that when you turn under the back neckline edge, it lines up with the finished edge of the front.


Like this:


Lastly, here's my super-technical FBA. I also had to cross the front pieces over each other more than the pattern markings on the tissue or I'd be showing everyone my navel. ;-)  I recommend that when you get to this step, take the extra time to pin/baste and try it on. I ended up needing to ease the lower skirt waist to the upper bodice waist at that joining seam because I crossed-over more than the pattern, but when worn it looks perfectly flat (except for the pleats, of course).


BTW, in my first post about this pattern I noted that I cut out to the 22 width from the armhole downward but ended up removing back to the "19" (between 18 and 20). I did end up adjusting the pattern too instead of leaving it like I said I would do. I decided it's better not to challenge the sewing brain cells too much with "maybe scenarios" that I won't remember 6 months from now. This ended up being the exact right move since I had to ease the top bodice to the waist and without the trim, it would've been a much bigger stretch.

Parting shot: More new shoes on the way! I ordered these last night from Zappos at about 1 AM Eastern Time and they are being delivered TODAY per the UPS tracking number. How do they do that?? Well, I'm not complaining and I hope they fit. Do you think we could get Fabric.com hooked up with Zappos' shipping department?


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Have a great weekend everybody!

33 comments:

  1. Nothing wrong with the brown jacket but the green one is truly snazzy. That would be my choice!

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  2. I'll repeat the comment from Peter, the fashion guru. The green jacket is truly snazzy although the brown one works well. Great dress and great shoes! Way to go, Debbie.

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  3. I love the green jacket over your print. Green and brown goes so well together. I really like the idea of adding sleeves. Did you use the tie belt for the surplice neckline dress?

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  4. Nope, no tie belt on this one either. I think I really just don't like 'em on me.

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  5. Seriously awesome post about wrap dress construction - Thank you!!
    I totally agree with you jacket-wise. I like them both, but the green says spring/summer and the brown says fall/winter to me. Totally cute ensemble!

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  6. Many thanks for the constructions tips, I'll be re-visiting this post when I make this dress... I also like the green jacket!! and the shoes...

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  7. Looks like I'm in good company when I say that I too like the green jacket the best. The strong FL sunlight can handle plenty of contrast without ever looking garish. But the brown jacket will work so nicely for autumn. And ah, teflon foot, maybe that change will get me to conquer my clear elastic problems. Thank you!

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  8. I agree - both jackets look great. I love the idea that you can adjust for seasons just by the jacket you use.
    Blessings,
    Patti

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  9. FABULOUS dress! I love the fabric and I think the green jacket is also my favourite--add nice contrast!!

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  10. Green, green, green. Definitely green. If you're going to wear the brown jacket, how about adding a colorful scarf to bring some color up to your face?

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  11. Both jackets look great but I too would go with the green one for this time of year. it compliments the dress beautifully.

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  12. Great dress Debbie! I vote for the brown jacket in the winter and the green jacket in the summer. LOL.

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  13. Picking up a less expected color, the green, is much more interesting. I'd go with that one. The fabric on this dress is very 'office friendly' btw.

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  14. Lovely dress! The print is very "you". I really liked Sherill's version too. This is a great pattern. I never look at the See & Sew patterns either.

    As for the jackets I like them both, although I do have a preference for the green. Which basically means you are safe to wear which ever jacket isn't sitting at the bottom of the laundry pile on the day. ;)

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  15. Why pick? Just leave off the scarf sometimes and change the jewelry and poof new outfit with no effort. I love the dress,great tutorial, and as for the shoes let me get over to zappos pronto. Lol! mssewcrazy

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  16. Great new dress, scarf and shoes. I like both jackets, the green one does add a bit of color.

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  17. I love the shoes. They look snazzy.
    Thanks for the tip of using a teflon foot when attaching clear elastic.

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  18. From now on I'm making a matching scarf for every dress or skirt I make, it's such a good idea!

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  19. Green jacket gets my vote but both jackets are really nice. I like your seasonal approach. With the shoes and dress...Wonderful!

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  20. I like both jackets, with a slight preference for the brown one. But I am known for a boring dressing style so you might want to go with the green one as everybody else says.

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  21. Debbie,
    Goodness, you are prolific in your sewing - I wish I could accomplish half of what you do. I enjoy your reviews and finished products, and your helpful coverage of the alterations & changes you've made.

    The dress is lovely, with beautiful shaping. I have to agree with your choice of leaving off the tie. It seems more sophisticated without it. Will we get to see you model this one?

    Green gets my vote -the color is great for this time of year, and it will look great on you.

    And yes, Zappos is amazing.

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  22. Love the print you chose for this dress and the dress itself turned out beautifully. I like the green jacket with it best!

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  23. Thanks so much for the wonderful tutorial on the neckline - I'm going to find that very useful indeed! Yout dress is beautiful, it's a great, easy-to-wear style but looks very elegant and the fabric is gorgeous. I love the green jacket best but think that the brown will be very nice in the autumn season.

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  24. cute dress. definitely the green jacket. looks younger and fresher.

    Last week, a student in the sewing class was working on a wrap style dress. She was frustrated because the top gaped open. I showed her the clear elastic trick. She now thinks I am a genius. I also showed her how a bit of ease stitching will solve the same problem on a woven.

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  25. I, too, like the green jacket for summer and brown for cooler times. You've done a wonderful job on the dress (as always). Sounds like things are coming togetherl. Yea!

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  26. I vote green jacket! It's really lovely, now I have to go search out this pattern. :)

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  27. I go with the green as well, looks wonderful, as does your new dress.

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  28. And there it is! It looks great. Love the fabric!

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  29. I vote for the green too. The brown (which is very nice) should never be worn with this dress. You need some constrast. I'd leave the brown for cream top and burnt red, mustard or even pale blue skirt.

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  30. Great dress Debbie! So flattering on you! Clear elastic question: did you cut the CE to the same length as the neckline or shorter? I bought this pattern after seeing your dress and Sherril's!

    JudyP

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  31. Judy, I don't cut the CE until it's attached as I like the tails to hold onto. I do pull it very taut as I attach it, which builds in just enough "stretch" and ease. HTH

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  32. I'm so jealous. You seem to always sew winners (or have a great attitude when it's not).

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  33. I just discovered your blog. Wow! I'm 55, as in 5 or 7 years until retirement (yay!). I sewed a lot until age 25. Now I want to get back to sewing. I have a Bernina sewing machine, and just got a Babylock Imagine serger. I've been reading about coversltitch machines, and stumbled upon your excellent information on coverstitch machines. Then, I found this comprehensive, detailed blog on using techniques to make a dress. I'm so happy! Thank you for creating and your continued posts on this blog.

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Thank you for each and every comment. I appreciate them all, but I have to be honest and let you know that I'm usually bad about answering questions. I hope you understand that there just isn't enough time in the day to do everything I want to do.

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