Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Tutorial: Turning a Raglan Into a Cowl With Contrast Panel (and Giveaway)

I did finish my tops yesterday and then my book last night, so it will be off to the library this morning.

Here is the finished remake of the original Walmart top. The only changes I made were to change the black contrast panel to white and hem it about 3" shorter. I'm very happy with this change, especially since it netted me a raglan pattern for "free."


Inside view

Here's the new top I made from the pattern I traced off the parts of the Walmart top while I had it ripped apart deconstructed. Yes, I'm wearing THOSE orange sandals again ;-) and sporting a wet head.


To make this top, you need a knit raglan pattern with a scoop neckline. I actually didn't have a TNT that fit this bill or else I probably wouldn't have been so inclined to rip apart the Walmart tee. As I've been learning just now, finding a pattern for a plain raglan top is easier said than done (unless you win yesterday's Giveaway), but I did find one in the Kwik Sew line, here. This is obviously a hole in the Big 3/4's catalogs. I wonder why.

Anyway …

Once you have a pattern, you need to trace an additional front piece onto tissue or pattern paper. Don't cut the tracing until you've made the changes because you're going to be extending beyond the original pattern lines.

To make the cowl overlay, you need to extend the center front about 1-1/2" inches at the neckline (on half a pattern, for a total of 3"),  tapering to nothing at the hem. If you want more cowl, extend more than 1-1/2". Next you will draw the cowl facing. The facing is shown below from the dotted green line upward and is shaped so that when folded down, it fits exactly onto the neckline of the new pattern piece. The differences between the original front and the new cowl are outlined in green. Hopefully, a picture is worth a thousand words here. However, not shown here and important is that the cowl front should match the back at the sideseams, but the contrast panel is about 3-4" shorter at the hem edge than the front and back pieces. It must be shorter so that its bottom edge doesn't show when the top is worn and so that both fronts can be hemmed independently. Since the contrast is your original pattern, just fold up the bottom edge before cutting fabric.


So, now that you have your pattern (right?), it's time to start construction. Note that my seam allowances are 1/4" everywhere except the neckline edge (3/8") and the hems (1"). It's easier to turn and stitch a smaller seam allowance. I used a serger and coverstitch machine for construction. If you don't have one or both machines, you can use a slight zigzag stitch for seams and a twin needle for topstitching (or more zigzagging).

Here we go …

First, press under the neckline and bottom hem on the contrast panel. (I use glass head pins on knits that have a mind of their own so I can keep them in place while I position a press cloth and hot iron over top.)


This photo isn't really a step - just showing what your contrast panel should look like now. I'm guessing yours won't be orange, though.


Next, sew the back raglan sleeve seams to the back of the top. Back only — the front will come in a separate step later. After the back sleeve seams are sewn, turn under the neckline edge and press. Depending on your fabric's recovery, you may want to serge or ZZ some clear elastic to this edge before turning under and stitching. My fabric has good recovery so no clear elastic this time, although I did hold the pressed-under edge in place with some bits of Steam-a-Seam 2.


After pressing the neckline edge under, topstitch it in place. I used my coverstitch machine. You can use yours if you have one or a twin needle or a zigzag stitch.


Next, press under the cowl facing on the front.In the photo below, the cowl facing is at the bottom — just easier for me to press while it's in this position.


Lay the front on your table, wrong side up, with the cowl facing still folded to the wrong side. Lay the contrast panel on top of the cowl front, also wrong side up. Pin (or baste) one front sleeve seam, as shown below by the blue "pin" lines. Repeat for the other front sleeve seam, making sure the cowl facing remains folded, to be caught in the front sleeve seam.


When pinning, the cowl edge (with the facing still folded down) should stick out just a hair above the top of the contrast panel, as in the photo below.


Here are both front sleeve seams pinned together. The two fronts won't lay flat now. That's OK.


Next, flip both pieces over so that the cowl front is right side up, as below. You could've pinned/basted with both fronts right side up, but I found it easier to lay the cowl front flat while pinning and then flip.


Next, put the back section (with the sleeves already semi-attached) on top, right side to right side. Pin/baste the sleeve fronts to the cowl/contrast "sandwich" at the sleeve seams, as shown below.


Sew the front sleeve seams so that all three edges plus the cowl facing are caught, as indicated by the blue lines below.


If you're constructing with a serger as I was, keep a long tail at the neck edge and using a blunt large-eyed needle (or your favorite tool), run the tail back through some of the stitching and then trim it, as shown below.


At this point, the sleeves are attached to the fronts and back, but the underarm and sideseams are not yet sewn. So, while your top is still mostly flat, press under the sleeve hems and the front/back hems so you don't have to press in the round. It's just easier. Don't stitch them yet.


Next, with right sides together (the pic below shows wrong sides together, so ignore that part!), stitch the underarm and sideseams in one pass (well, two passes), as shown by the blue lines below.


Stitch the pre-pressed sleeve and bottom hems in place. Do not catch the contrast panel in the bottom hem.

And, voila! Done!


Neckline close-up:


Front inside:


And again, me wearing the new top:


And now for the LAST Giveaway this week  …

… (drum roll)

… a $35 Fabric.com Gift Card!


To enter, leave a comment on this post and I will use the Random Number thingie to pick a winner.

Carolyn commented yesterday, "So you're downsizing right? That's the reason for all the giveaways?"


Nope. If I was actively downsizing, it would take a year of Giveaways. ;-) But what I am doing is "Paying It Forward." I'm sure you all have noticed that I have advertising in the sidebars of this blog. It doesn't generate a lot of cash and it takes a long time to accumulate to where I'm actually paid. But, I did just get a payment and since it's because of you, my readers, I wanted to return the favor. Hence, the Giveaways, and Thank You! for reading and following me and my ramblings. :-)

* * * * *

And the WINNER from the July 12, 2011 Giveaway (Simplicity Fabric Guide) is …



Congratulations meredithp! Please contact me at djc at cedesign dot com with your mailing info no later than Wednesday, July 26, 2011 (after all Winners have been announced, in case of duplicates). If I don't hear from you by then, I will draw another number/name.

Fine print: For all the Giveaways last week and this week, each entrant can only win once and in the case of duplicates, I'll contact you for your choice and then draw again randomly on what's left. Clear? And if you do enter, please check back over the next two weeks to see who won because if I don't hear from you within a few days after announcing winners, I'll draw/decide again. I will close comments on this Giveaway on Monday, July 25 2011 and announce the winner on Tuesday, July 26, 2011. Again, anyone anywhere can enter this or any Giveaway this week.

94 comments:

  1. what a great tutorial... i think i might try this, and cut slits in the underlayer so it could be a nursing top!

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  2. Another wonderful tutorial...I feel like you are my ow private sewing teacher as I have learned so much from you! Thanks again!

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  3. I love your posts -- even when I wouldn't copy an outfit exactly, I learn something new from the process every time! Also, I really love orange on you. You're the rare person who looks smashing in it.

    Count me in for the Fabric.com giveaway. I'd be thrilled to win!

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  4. Debbie this is the first time i have posted to your blog although i read it every day. You have inspired me to sew for myself again and get my eating ways under control (again) LOL I always read your postings about your son the marine as i am also a military mom here in Canada.

    thanks for the opportunity to win something on top of all the useful tips and ideas you share

    Vicki B.

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  5. Thank you for the tutorial. Of course I want my name in the hat for the gift certificate giveaway. Thanks for all you do!
    Corinne

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  6. This is probably one of my favorite tutorials you have written for your "followers"! Thanks for taking the time to share these steps with us. I have a top that I LOVE and maybe, just maybe, I will have the nerve to deconstruct it and make a pattern. It is a bit scary, because I still want to be able to wear this top when it is put back together!

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  7. PS - of course I would love to be entered into your drawing..who wouldn't?!

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  8. I'm kicking myself for throwing out my best fitting cowl neck shirt last fall, just a few months before I started sewing. I know know how easily I could have deconstructed it and copied the pattern. Perhaps a gift card from Fabric.com will help ease the pain?

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  9. Great tut! Please enter me in the drawing.

    Julie

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  10. Oh, I like this tutorial, thanks! Lekala has a basic raglan top pattern that I like---it's not as skank-tastic in real life as their illustration would lead you to believe.

    And, I can no longer resist your giveaway love, so I will throw my name in here, too.

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  11. So generous of you...please include me in the draw. Very informative tutorial as usual!

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  12. Beautiful top and the fabric is lovely too. Am in for the giveaway...lol.

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  13. Fantastic tutorial!...and who could pass up a chance to win a Fabric.com gift card?

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  14. Your enthusiasm always inspires me, I may actually get my sewing mojo back someday soon! I love the way you fix things that don't fit/look the way you want and make them yours. I am also losing weight and have a whole wardrobe that could use some help! I love the prints you buy, but one question - I assume they are polyester? You don't sweat like crazy in the Florida humidity? I just moved to Florida and am afraid to buy anything not cotton...

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  15. What a fabulous tutorial. Thank you for sharing. I have the perfect fabric for this top.

    And I would love to win this gift card. Thank you for sharing. g

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  16. Love the "new you" that is emerging amidst the chaos..... you are a beautiful woman! Love the shirt tutorial. Going to look into making a similar top.... or buying one at Walmart! LOL!

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  17. thanks for the new tutorial! I hope the random # generator picks me for the fabric gift card :)

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  18. LOL YES enter me for this give away. I need an excuse to buy more fabric from them.

    Great tutorial.

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  19. I've learned a lot from you since I found your blog. I love the bright knits you use to create your tops. I've purchased a couple but I don't feel as confident as you do to actually use them. Hopefully I'll get around to it.

    Have you always loved bright colors or is this something you grew into?

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  20. Well, well, I could resist no longer. I am addicted to fabric.com. Their warehouse is not far from me... I really should try to get a job there!

    Please throw my name in the hat for this one!

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  21. Pahleeease enter me for this giveaway. I am really enjoying your blog. Your approach to sewing is really fun! Love the print you chose. The top is adorable.

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  22. Thank you for the tutorial. Please enter me for the drawing.

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  23. I luv your blog! I look forward to seeing it every day...thanks for sharing your talents with us all and sharing your treasures..
    Great pictures...I'm going to try taking a few myself??
    hugs

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  24. Great tutorial! I like the full front underlayer rather than the little triangle piece that some patterns use. Beautiful stitching - I dream of getting a coverstitch machine some day.

    Also, for any who are also searching for raglan options, Burdastyle May 2011 has some variations. Number 103 of that issue is available as download on the website. It has front gathers with cap sleeves. Instructions are a little confusing (as usual), but it is an option. I made it in a jersey without the sleeve slits.

    Please enter me in the giveaway--Thanks!

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  25. I follow you on google reader and love reading about your sewing adventures. I think somewhere in my stash of patterns I have an old New Look pattern that is a knit raglan T. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

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  26. Great Tutorial. I could do some damage with the Fabric.com gift card :)

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  27. LOOVVEEE that top, and I think I even have that KS pattern! Off to trace it and make those adjustments...

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  28. I love your blog, have learned a lot, thanks

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  29. I love your blog, bought a coverstitch machine after reading your tips. Thanks

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  30. Great idea! Thanks for the giveaways!

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  31. I have a couple of Walmart tops that I like the cut of, but the fabric has pilled horribly. This posting has inspired me to take one of them apart and make them in fabrics I actually like!

    And a Fabric.com card? They actually ship to Canada! Winning that would be amazing!

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  32. Sign me up :) Love your blog. I follow you from Florida as well, and am working on a trying to stay cool wardrobe. I just recently replaced a panel in a similar top, but did not take the top apart to do it. Yours looks great!

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  33. I have been reading your blog for a while now, used your tutorials and just followed along with your life. I've learned a lot from you and it's about time I commented! (and the fabric.com gift card motivated me a little!!)

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  34. Useful tutorial and useful giveaway. ;) Thx for the opportunity!

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  35. My top probably will be orange - a color I love! It may even happen with your clear, detailed tutorial. Your tops look terrific. You are looking good these days, Debbie....even with wet hair. Please enter me in the Fabric.Com giveaway. (I spend more time on that site than I'd ever admit!)

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  36. Every once in a while I find a gap in the pattern companies lines and wonder if that is a seasonal thing or out of fashion or whatever, but raglan sleeves seem like they would always be in.

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  37. Thanks for posting this tutorial, I'll have to give it a try sometime after I've finished my other 9,456,386,459 (or so) things that I have in the queue. ;-)

    And Amen! to the lack of raglan sleeve patterns. :-( They aren't as easy to find as one would think.

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  38. Your so clever,im loving checking in with you each day.I agree wholeheartedly with the paying it forward.We dont have much money but we try to pay it forward in kindness and consideration to others.It seems like a lost art sometimes!

    mitch1066(at)gmail.com

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  39. I'd like to thank the Academy...Oh wait!

    Thank you so much, Debbie. I've sent my addy.

    This is so exciting, just in time for my BD (yesterday).

    thanks again!

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  40. I love your blog. I've learned so much, and found it really inspirational.

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  41. I love this top. The colors are so summery. I'm to afraid to deconstruct a rtw to make pattern pieces but I may just try. Thanks for the inspiration. Oh and thanks for sharing the wealth :-)

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  42. I love the fabric on your newly-made top. Did you mention the source and I just missed it?

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  43. Love this idea for a cowl, no peek a boo when you bend over. Love the orange too, I seem to be leaning toward this color more and more lately...

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  44. Hi Debbie, I'd love to win that fabric.com gift card. I already have things in my cart! ;-) Even thought I just used that facebook coupon last week. Your new top looks great. Sometimes it's easier to take apart a top that already fits than adjust a patter.

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  45. Yep, I'm in, I can ALWAYS use $$ for fabric.com! Thanks for the tut on the top. I have that KS pattern and have used it multiple times. I'll use it again for this variation. Thanks!

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  46. That is such a cute shirt, thanks for the tute! I already have stuff in my fabric.com cart so I could really use that gift card. :-)

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  47. I may have to take my measurements and make something for myself! Thanks for all of your great information.

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  48. Love your blog. Even without the giveaway :)

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  49. You look great in orange. And if you are comfy in the orange sandals, that's good. My daughters picked me up a pair of shoes with orange, pink and green flowers on them. My 15 year old son promptly chided me for wearing shoes with vegetables on them. So now those flowered shoes are said to be decorated with carrots. Plain orange looks pretty good by comparison, right?

    I'd love the fabric, too. I've never tried fabric.com, and this would be what I need.

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  50. Can the gift card be used by someone in the UK? I hear so much about Fabric.com on American blogs and I'd love to try them out.

    I can't believe how much sewing you actually manage to get done! You must be really fast as I seem to take weeks to do anything.

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  51. I always love seeing what you are sewing and all your tutorials. You are quite the stitcher! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Please, I would also like to be entered in the Fabric.com giveaway.

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  52. What an inspiring post for us newbies. Thank you so much for sharing how to do this. I'm sure there must be a school out there that would LOVE to have you as a sewing teacher. I wonder if you have thought about that for a career? Here in New Zealand every middle school student does a term of basic sewing on machines. I wonder if they have the same in the USA?

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  53. I have really enjoyed reading your blog lately - you seem extra sassy! I love a gal with sass!

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  54. Hos generous! I'll keep My fingers crossed.

    Maria
    vae196(at)gmail( dot)com

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  55. I love that you made your own pattern from a ready made top! It looks so pretty on you. I have also been looking for a raglan sleeve top but have been unsuccessful finding something I like. Maybe you can sway me to try making my own pattern...maybe.

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  56. This is a very helpful tutorial. As always, you've provided some wonderful photos to accompany the written steps. Love the color of the top!
    Cynthia

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  57. Oh, I would love to win. I've never ordered from fabric.com before but I always look and drool.

    Fabulous tutorial too! I'm going to try that soon!

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  58. Thanks for the tutorial. It was very informative!

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  59. I'm would love to win the gift certificate.

    Your blog is so much fun to follow.

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  60. Thanks again for sharing with us. I think we get the best deal, learning from and being inspired by your sewing. WOW, my favorite place to shop for apparel fabric!

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  61. I am about to start making my wedding dress and this gift card would help a ton!

    Amy
    amym710[at]yahoo[dot]com

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  62. Awesome top! So glad your "pattern" worked out perfectly.

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  63. I did a FBA on V1250 too. But your method was much, much smarter -- move the extra fabric to the pleat! Duh. I ended up with a dart. It's fine, it really doesn't show in the fabric I used. Please enter me in the giveaway; I could really use more fabric ;)
    Laurie (at) shiny-objects (dot) com

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  64. What an awesome giveaway! Thank you for your generosity this week.
    Emilee
    emisuess(at)att(dot)net

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  65. Great top and fantastic tutorial. I want one, but finding a raglan pattern with the raglan seam that low in the front...impossible!! :(

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  66. Very clear tutorial on a clever variation - thanks! I've got my fingers crossed on the giveaway (not that I need more fabric!).

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  67. Another excellent tutorial - I expect it took you longer to put that together than to make the top, so thank you again. I would love to be included in this giveaway!

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  68. What a fantastic tutorial! The white really lifts the first print & the orange one is just cute. I will try this one for myself, maybe also for my DD. (And a wonderful give-away) Thankyou!

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  69. Oh yeah! A Fabric.com gift card! That size fits everyone, I'd say. :)

    As always, you've done a superb job with another new garment. While I suppose there are plenty of talented sewers (sewists?) you bother to take the time to teach techniques and share your knowledge. Thank you!

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  70. My evening is complete when I see a new post from you! Honestly, I feel like I know you after all these years!

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  71. This top looks good on you. I really like those front privacy panels and you made it look quite easy to construct.

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  72. I have a couple of older raglan sleeve patterns from kwik sew that I love and use a lot. Nice that you want to share the love!!!

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  73. No, no, no….Thank YOU…for the ramblings…and the sharing (I laughed, I cried…) and the time you take to make wonderful tutorials with clear directions and lots of pics…it’s all very much appreciated! Just the other day, your Coverstitch post regarding binder adjustments saved me a ton of time and grief.

    That orange top is fantastic and looks great on you! It’s hard to feel down when I wear such an upbeat color. By the way, I’ve been following your weight loss strategy (for the most part) and so far, it’s working nicely for me as well. So again, thank you!
    Donna

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  74. LOVE that color orange and the print .. and love the look. It looks smashing on you.

    Added plus: great tutorial .. thank you !

    Joy

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  75. Another great top (and tutorial!). I used to think that cowl necklines wouldn't be flattering on a larger bust, but I've really come to love them in the last year. The inset is great for extra coverage where needed.

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  76. Terrific tutorial! I have a question though, does the panel add weight (and heat) to the front of the top? I have tops that just have a small modesty panel in the front of the neckline and not attached to the rest of the seams. Just curious as I live in the same "hot house" state that you do. LOL!

    Thank you for sharing your "windfall" with us!

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  77. Ooh, very nice tutorial, and I just love orange. Your top looks terrific.

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  78. Thank you Debbie for your wonderful step by step tutorial. And what a lovely finished top.

    Kathy in Oz

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  79. Blog meandering brought me here this morning...ironic because I just deconstructed 2 Wal-Mart t-shirts to remake! Looking forward to reading back through your previous posts...you have a new follower! Thanks for the chance to win.

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  80. I like your shirt you made from the Walmart top. It's so cute. I have that Kwik Sew pattern so might copy your idea. Thanks.

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  81. I love your blog! I've learned a lot from it. Great coverstitch info. I'd probably be lost without it. Many many thanks for a great job done

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  82. Now *this* is going to be a popular giveaway! I'm entering on the off-chance because someone's got to win, right?

    (I'd rather not post my email here but I'll email it to you in the chance-in-a-million that you actually need it!)

    On the subject of raglan sleeve tops - you don't seem to 'do' the Burda magazines but there's a good couple I can think of from the past couple of years in there.

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  83. Your ability to figure out pattern alterations is amazing. The tutorial for copying the top is great. The greatest is the method for altering Vogue 1250. I was just struggling with the alteration. Thanks for the information and the opportunity to win the gift card.

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  84. I was at Walmart today (wednesay) for a prescription - which they do not carry when I thought, "I wonder if this walmart has those raglan cowl blouses." There was one sz16 left which I bought and it is interesting the way if fits on me. I love the look until the blouse rides forward. The privacy panel is a tad wide for my body so it gapes and gapes more as it rides forward.
    I have some knits I would like to try your idea with utilizing this pattern and by trying it on I know that the panel and blouse opening need to be narrower for me. The shoulder gap is just about where my bra straps are so coming in a little would help with the dreaded bra showcasing.
    Thanks for the idea and the tutorial.

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  85. hmm, i think i could find something at fabric.com for $35. :) i should do some giveaways, god knows i have enough stuff. i don't have many readers, though.

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  86. The tutorial was wonderful. You make that top very doable. Thanks for being so generous with your time.

    I guess I will enter this giveaway since I have never ordered fabric online. I know, I know, but I am a toucher and like to feel the fabric. I also have a sneaky suspicion that buying fabric online could prove quite addictive. :)

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  87. Your tutorials are excellent. Makes me want to expand my sewing skills when you detail things step by step.

    I have never bought fabric online, but places to buy fabric here are dwindling. The Fabric.com card giveaway would be very nice to try out. Please add me to the list.

    Joy in Palmland

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  88. You inspire the plus sized me,Debbie! You always look so good in your clothes- a great advert. for sewing.
    Aless

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  89. Thanks for the tutorial. I'm inspired by your garments. I am sort of afraid of knits and I love the way you work with them.
    Thanks, also for the giveaways. Quite fun!

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  90. Totally brilliant. And I love Laurel's suggestion of making it a nursing top by slicing the underlayer!

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  91. Thanks for the tutorial - think I might try it out with an old tried & true pattern. Naturally, I'd love to win the gift card - that would be awesome!!

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  92. What a great tutorial! And I have to say, I like your orange/green color combo better than the original.

    Please throw my name in the hat for the drawing. Not that I need more fabric, but I waaaaant it.

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  93. Ohhhhhh, I could use that gift card!! It would really be nice to get some fabric and a pattern for my upcoming B Day! I really enjoy reading your blog and your weight loss journey!

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  94. yeah, I missed the giveaway, but how the heck did I miss this tutorial? Brilliant, thanks!

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Thank you for each and every comment. I appreciate them all, but I have to be honest and let you know that I'm usually bad about answering questions. I hope you understand that there just isn't enough time in the day to do everything I want to do.

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