Sunday, November 25, 2012

Orphaned No More

I'm done, and I finally have something to go with the nearly-orphaned skirt I made last winter and have yet to wear.


It was nice to sew with a woven. I haven't done any edgestitching for a while. Or buttonholes. Ug. ;-) But I took my time (boy, did I ever!) and the blouse is beautifully sewn ... if I do say so myself. There was absolutely no frog-stitching on this, which I think may be a first. Too bad the fit isn't perfect too. lol But as I said yesterday, it's passable and I will wear the new blouse. Even if I will have to iron it with each laundering.


In fact, I have it lined up for tomorrow when it's back to work I go. I'll layer a black vee neck cardi with it and the not-orphan skirt, and my fun shiny (patent) wine shoes.



I'll try to get a pic of me in the outfit tomorrow when I get home.

Before taking pics tonight, I did a little "surgery" on Zillie. I took off her old 44DD bra and sacrificed one of my current 36s, removing lots of stuffing in the process. I also dialed her width settings waaaay down. As Bunny commented, that felt good! She still needs some work and I'll have to sew her cover smaller at some point, but at least now I could get the blouse onto her easily.


A couple of you have asked for details on my erect back alteration. Well, there really isn't much to it. It's basically the opposite of a dowager's hump alteration, or just like a swayback alteration which is usually done at the waist. Erect posture means less fabric is needed to go from the base of the neck to the waist ... being a straighter line, shorter distance, and all.

To remove what is excess length for me without affecting the sideseams, I slash the back below the neck and above the waist, like this below, leaving a hinge at the side (armhole in this case).


The I overlap the slash at CB about 1/2" (your overlap may vary depending on your body) and tape the overlap in place.


This will make a CB cut-on-fold line "crooked" (see the tissue to the left of the yellow line above). Ignore it and align the top and bottom of the cut-on-fold line of the pattern piece with the fold of the fabric and cut as usual. It works out fine this way. Technically, it gives a little more ease across the back but hardly noticeable. But more important, collar/neckband pieces still fit the neckline without further adjustment. You *could* add a CB seam if there isn't one, but I don't unless I actually want that seam.

Hope this was all clear. 

11 comments:

Jane M said...

Love, love how this blouse turned out. I love sewing with knits because they're easy to sew and I find generally easier to fit. But wovens are really a test of precision and patience and you did a wonderful job on all that stitching.

velosewer said...

Love your blouse. I've decided to sew a few wovens too and I'm really enjoying the change from knits.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

I like your new outfit and the blouse is great! There is a lot to be said for slow sewing...I just need to learn how to practice it! Hehehehe

wendy said...

One very smart work outfit! I love the blouse, it's great to have something so useful but a little bit different. May I ask how much bulk the knot adds over the tummy area? I would love to try this pattern, but I do have a tummy.

Vicki said...

Very smart outfit! All ready for a promotion :)

jirons42 said...

What a great pulled together look. Very office ready!

Lynn said...

Lovely work--and the outfit looks terrific. And thanks for the brief tutorial on the straight back adjustment. I also have a very straight back, but usually just ignore the problem. Now I see that it is very easy to fix!

L said...

Thanks for explaining the erect back alteration. Your blouse and outfit both look great.

liza jane said...

I really love that blouse. Great classic piece!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

I bought this pattern a while back after seeing someone else make it. Their project was cool, but then I go the pattern and was like, "I don't know. The art is pretty dowdy." But this is fab!!! What a perfect crisp white shirt. Flattering and fun with a little visual interest. Now I want to make it again.

Kathy (KathySews) said...

I really like how this blouse looks with the jacket. Lovely