Wednesday, April 20, 2016

In the works and on deck

(Can you believe it? TWO posts from me in the same week!)

So it's Spring here in Tampa. For about another minute until it's All Summer-All Humid-All The Time … for months. And I'm ready for some new clothes.

First up, is the new Cashmerette Concord tee. This should have been a very quick sew over this past weekend. To be fair, it IS a quick sew. It just wasn't a quick decision on sizing so actually starting took some time. And let's not mention Netflix sucking me in.

In-Progress Concord

I was originally to be a tester but my sewing is so scarce and scattered these days that I pretty much just wussed out. Jenny very kindly sent me a paper pattern anyway. I'm a bad tester. But I am an honest reviewer, so maybe it will all work out?

Concord back pattern with curves!

With the paper pattern in hand, it meant I had to trace. It also meant I had to "sacrifice" some old never-used costume pattern so I had tracing paper to use, or something resembling it. (I know I have actual pattern tracing paper but I have no idea where it ended up after the move last July.) Tracing isn't a big deal. I have to be honest, though, and say I actually prefer PDFs just because I don't have to trace and I can just print another if I mess up.

So back to the sizing conundrum. I tend to run a little bit narrow in the shoulders and from the Concords I'd been seeing on blogs and Instagram, it looked to me like the neckline runs wide. After cutting and partially sewing, I agree with myself that it does have a wide-set neck opening. In the pic above, the neckband isn't yet sewn on (and in real life it's not even cut out), so the neck opening looks even wider than it will when finished.

Although my B-W-H measurements would put me in the 18-20 range, I started with the E/F cup and traced at 14 for the neckline and shoulders, gradually increasing to 16 at underarm/bust level, and then out to 20+ for hips/bum.

So far, everything is going great. Except my fiddly fabric. I thought I would do some colorblocking, and as you can see, I did. But I'm probably going to be sorry. This rayon knit is very flimsy and there is definite rippling where the two colors come together. I'm pretty sure that the neckband stitching will be meh too. So, I'm dubbing this a wearable muslin and we'll see how it goes.

The pattern itself is very nice. It's nothing earth-shattering for me because I now have years of fitting/altering experience (and a few TNT tees), but I can see that it's going to be a good fit (pun intended) for busty/curvy ladies who don't want to roll their own (paying homage to 4/20 today hahaha!). It should be very easy to get a great tee with a more modern fit than most other commercial tee patterns right out of the envelope. Just heed the possibility of a wide neckline. Oh, and maybe slim sleeves. They looked on the smaller side to me as I was tracing/cutting but I'm withholding final judgment since I haven't actually sewed up the sideseams/sleeves and tried it on yet.

The instructions look comprehensive and I love the 3/8" seam allowances. At the larger end of the plus pattern spectrum, that 3/8" seam allowance can make a real difference in pattern layout on fabric. Plus, it's just so much easier to sew and serge with a 3/8" SA. Jenny also says that there's a slight forward shoulder adjustment built-in. (This doesn't help me, of the erect posture brigade, but it might be of interest to you?)

I'm hoping to finish this up tonight and tomorrow night after work so I can then start on …


… Kwik Sew 3873. And yes, they still don't have the best illustrations/photos. But at least you can see the seamlines and I think it's going to be a fun summer dress with mix/match prints.The sleeves definitely need some de-frumping and KS has always run big in the armhole for me. If the Concord trial above is a win, I may just morph the two together (or if not, use my TNT).

Stay tuned. I promise I'll be back soon with an update on both.

18 comments:

  1. I really like your Concord T and hope the neckline turns out nice. Good luck!

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    1. Thanks Tomasa! And thanks also for hanging in with my blog spurts and stutters.

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  2. I'm really looking forward to your finished Concord and a new dress to look forward to also. Hopefully this means that your sewing mojo is back and there is even more sewing on the horizon!

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  3. I have forward shoulders and the concord was perfect for me. I too found the sleeves snug. But I do in every pattern! I sewed a 18 top EF and 20 bottom in the Washington and Appleton. This one the 18 CD was perfect. So a lot less negative ease. I have been wearing mine all winter. Love it.. Elaine. aka grandmaelaine

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    1. Thanks for confirming my thoughts. I've now sewn the sleeves and they're OK on me.

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    2. I'm glad to hear that about the sleeves - normally they're too big for me!

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  4. Looking good so far! The neckline is definitely wide, yep :) It should cover your bra straps, but it's meant to be pretty open. Hopefully it works for you!

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  5. I am looking forward to seeing how you look in the Concord. Love the look of that Kwik Sew Pattern.

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    1. Thank you Nancy. The KS dress caught my eye. I hope it turns out how I'm imagining.

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  6. Glad your "sewjo" has or is returning! I always enjoy your posts.

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  7. Debbie this looks just wonderful and it may have swayed me to the patter. I have narrow, forward shoulders so it will work except for the neckline which I will probably just add too like I do most of my scoop neck tops. Definitely tempted to give it a go! (@sewverymuch on IG)

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  8. That is a lovely tee pattern-good luck on the neckline and fiddling with the rayon knit. Wish me luck as I also wrangle some flimsy knit while working with a cardi pattern. Nice to see 2 posts this week :-)

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  9. I still love your little striped tee. :-)

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  10. This is looking good and it's fun to see you sewing whenever you have time. :) I have been watching this pattern and I agree with the neckline for sure. I would have to draft it smaller, but the rest looks great and I can't wait to see your final product. That KS looks awesome too!

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  11. I hadn't even looked at that KwikSew pattern ... but I'm tempted to give it a whirl myself.

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  12. I've seen that tee around, and it looks like a very versatile pattern. I have not seen that dress, and I really like it. I hope this means you're settled into the new house and will finally have some quality time with the machines!

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Thank you for each and every comment. I appreciate them all, but I have to be honest and let you know that I'm usually bad about answering questions. I hope you understand that there just isn't enough time in the day to do everything I want to do.

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