Wednesday Ramblings

I got this DVD from the library yesterday and did the two beginning sessions this morning. And it about KILLED me. But the burn is good, right? ;-)

So, this DVD is aimed at new mothers. Yeah, well. I'm definitely not a new mother, nor do I ever plan to be again, but I do have the abs in need of dire rescue so I figured what the heck. It's actually perfect for me. It's toning exercises on a mat with a resistance band, a ball or pillow, and later a 3 lb. weight, without the bounce-around aerobic stuff that I suck at and just plain hate. Plus, the "host" Tracey Mallett is Australian and I do love those Aussie accents! I will definitely do "just 8 more" every time I hear her ask. But seriously, I think I can actually follow this DVD regularly. The time went fast, and I even watched it once before I did the routines so the total time I spent this morning was really double. I did have to fight off the dogs trying to lick my face all over with me down on the floor at their level, which could be a problem when I'm flinging weights around. Silly dogs. I'm sure we all looked quite a sight. No, there will be no photos of this.

I also got a Pilates DVD from the library and I'll "preview" that one tonight. It's rated for Level 4, which I didn't notice until it was home and if the beginner stage from the above DVD killed me, this one may just close the casket and throw the dirt on top. 

I'm still waiting for the South Beach Workout DVD I ordered from Amazon. It's supposed to be short but effective spurts of interval training that I can do on my eliptical bike. Hopefully I'll like that one so it can be my cardio. I hate cardio.

I also dug out my old scale and it seems to be working. Maybe I was just wishing it was broken? I needed a starting place to figure out BMI, etc., so it was time to face the number. At least I didn't have to buy a new scale to do it. The number is still way more than I want it to be eventually, but it's actually less than I was expecting for now so I'm not depressed about it. No, there will be no photos of that either. ;-)

I'm going to start on this pattern this afternoon. It arrived on Monday and should fit nicely into my informal "Summer of Dresses" plan. There are still others I want to revisit - Vogue 1250 and See & Sew 5593 to name two, but a new pattern to try out is TOO intoxicating so that's what I'm going to work on first.

No matter what stage I'm in with dressmaking by this weekend, I'll have to clear off the sewing table and start (and hopefully finish) another one of these bags:

Another mom of another Tyler in Marine boot camp found my blog and has commissioned me to make it for her. Her son is due to graduate from boot camp on August 22 and she wants to take it to Parris Island then. Ooo RAH!

And MY mother has twisted my arm (ahem) to come back to Virginia the weekend of July 29 to teach her how to use the serger she bought probably 2 years ago now. She lives about an hour from my sister, where my Tyler will be that weekend working with my brother-in-law to put a new transmission into the car he just bought. We knew it needed a transmission when he bought it (no 3rd gear!), so this has always been the plan. And while they have the old transmission out, they will be replacing the clutch too — just because they can. (Insert manly grunting noises here.) So, I think Tyler may be close to SICK of seeing me after this, although I will never give up any opportunity to see him so my mom didn't have to twist my arm too tight. Which she knew and used to her advantage. Like all moms do. She's buying me a plane ticket so at least I don't have to do that drive twice in one month. Two-hour non-stop flight vs. 14 hours on the road? No brainer. See you next weekend mom!

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Responses to some comments/questions:

Diane: "No problem with you "singling me out" lol I appreciate your comments although I'm not convinced that you are a lazy seamstress - - - - I almost never even do a muslin. Therefore, you are not as lazy as me!"

Trust me, I am. Making a muslin is so I don't have to make something twice just to get it to fit. Muslins are fast and ugly. Making two whole garments takes a lot more time. And I don't even muslin every new pattern anymore.

KellysSewing: "Is your son still stationed in NC? Mine is headed to Camp Lejuene in a couple weeks for 2 years. Opposite side of the US for me!"

Tyler is at MCAS Cherry Point NC, which is about an hour from LeJeune (CP is south, I think, but I could be wrong). There's not a whole lot for a single guy to do around either town, but LeJeune is a HUGE base, so I'm sure he can stay busy. I hope you can work out seeing your son as often as possible. I know how hard it is when they're gone.

Cheryl: "I wanted to comment on your prospective ab workout. Don't train any muscle group more than one day in a row; the muscles need the time to recover. Surely it's got to be good news that 20 minutes every day is too much. :-)"

Fantastic news! See above comments re KILLING me. ;-)

Mel: "Terrific tutorial! I have a question though, does the panel add weight (and heat) to the front of the top? I have tops that just have a small modesty panel in the front of the neckline and not attached to the rest of the seams. Just curious as I live in the same "hot house" state that you do."

and

flynn37: "I love the prints you buy, but one question - I assume they are polyester? You don't sweat like crazy in the Florida humidity? I just moved to Florida and am afraid to buy anything not cotton..."

I've been in Florida for 22 years so I'm used to the heat and humidity. But today's polyesters are actually pretty comfortable to wear and do breathe. They also wick away the moisture and let it evaporate, which is something cotton doesn't do. I always feel damp wearing cotton, but usually cool wearing a good polyester. And I'm a slave to those great prints. ;-)

I suppose the extra panel on the cowl top from yesterday does add weight, but I'm not really noticing it. I wore one of them all day yesterday running errands and I wasn't any more uncomfortable in the heat/humidity of a Florida July day than usual.

Kira: "Can the gift card be used by someone in the UK?"

Yes, as far as I know, since Fabric.com does ship internationally.

Kris O: "I love the fabric on your newly-made top. Did you mention the source and I just missed it?"

They are both ITY knits and recent purchases from Fabric.com.

Belinda: "Have you always loved bright colors or is this something you grew into?"

I've always loved bright prints. Which is strange considering how shy I can be in real life, until I get to know someone. Maybe it's my way of telling the world, "Hey, talk to me because I'm too shy to start the conversation." ;-) But I've also been working on that, making it a point to say hi to strangers and smile. So far, so good.

I've also had a couple questions about my dressform. It's a Dritz My Double, and I reviewed it here. In the review are also a couple of links to online discussions and tips about dressforms in general and how to pad them out to fit you (which mine doesn't anymore, but I don't really ever use it to fit me anyway).

* * * * *

And the WINNER from the July 13, 2011 Giveaway (Custom Couture) is …

I chose lazysubculturalgirl because I just couldn't bear the thought of her feeling so guilty for so long about all those Old Navy things, especially since she so dutifully spent her husband's gift card on them. ;-)

Congratulations lazysubculturalgirl! I hope we see some "refashioning" posts from you soon. Please contact me at djc at cedesign dot com with your mailing info no later than Wednesday, July 26, 2011 (after all Winners have been announced, in case of duplicates). If I don't hear from you by then, I will draw another number/name.

Fine print: For all the Giveaways last week and this week, each entrant can only win once and in the case of duplicates, I'll contact you for your choice and then draw again randomly on what's left. Clear? And if you do enter, please check back over the next two weeks to see who won because if I don't hear from you within a few days after announcing winners, I'll draw/decide again. Again, anyone anywhere can enter this or any Giveaway which is still open.

* * * * *

Parting Shot:

This just arrived in my inbox as I was typing. "Putting panels back on" is all I know. I'm assuming the panels that hold in bombs or something, since that's what he works on.

P.S.

Adding on to my earlier post today …

Here's the lime slinky cardigan:




I don't think I'll ever wear all 3 pieces together. That's a LOT of lime green slinky! But Zillie was already wearing the skirt so a triple dose is what I photographed.

This is the print for the Ottobre blouse:



Tammy/Izzie left a comment earlier about the weird dart placement for this blouse, and boy was she right. I had just finished altering the pattern when I came back downstairs and read her note. It's good to know that it wasn't just me scratching my head. But I've moved the dart (along with doing an FBA), and I think things will be OK now. I'll decide about waist darts after I've got a muslin sewn. I never match up with printed waist darts anyway so that won't be anything new.

And, finally for you Sherril, a pic of the inside of the tie blouse.



Clairee asked about sewing with this fabric since she has some too. I used the serger and CS machine for everything and just let the pleats fall where they wanted. On vertical seams (since I cut it crossgrain), the pleats were flat. On the only horizontal seam, the skirt hem, the did sort of stretch out a bit which is why the hem has a slight lettuce/flutter look to it.

New Patterns & Answers to Comments

The results of my "spree" at Joann's on Friday night:

Simp 3506 - Looks like a fast & comfortable dress and top to whip up. The jacket is too shapeless for me though. The pants will never fit in the size range I bought.

Simp 2923 - Princess lines and raglan sleeves. I like the combination.



Simp 4045 - This is the jacket (brown, bottom left) that I'm thinking of morphing into that JCP inspiration jacket, although it won't be an exact morph since this doesn't have raglan sleeves. I'm thinking more "essence of inspiration." I'll have to create a separate neck yoke since what you see on the jacket is just topstitching. I'll never make the skirts because they are too full for me, but the dress and top are cute. But that dress doen't fit the model very well, does it?



Simp 3631 - Or I could use this one that was recommended by Belinda and Carolyn. I do have the issue of Sew Stylish that shows narrowing the sleeve so I should be all set, right? ;-)



Simp 3678 - Likely that I'll never make this but you never know. I like all of the dresses and think the sleeveless jumper would be especially cute under a jacket.



New Look 6632 - I thought the angle of the jacket would be a flattering diagonal line for me. Sort of trendy but at the same time, not. I'd make the shorter version, but a bit longer than shown. If I make it at all.



New Look 6788 - I like the dress. The square neckline of the jacket might be a bit too fuddy-duddy. I bought this and then saw Carolyn's dress and was doubly inspired. Of course if I made this dress, I'd have to wear a jacket and never take it off. If Joann's had had two coordinating linen/blends, they would've come home with me too. But Joann's usually disappoints and was no exception that night.



And two which aren't on the website yet:

Simp 2899 - Another raglan sleeve/princess seams combination. I'm definitely making the jacket on the left. But I wouldn't wear it buttoned all the way up, if at all.



Simp 2896 - The dress I'm currently in the process of altering to use with the leftover lining fabric. The blouse is very much like my recent coral blouse but with a little bit lower neckline. I'll definitely morph them as that coral blouse is my newest favorite and I'm going to wear it out soon if I don't have another. If I have enough fabric, I might add sleeves to the dress so I have the option of taking off the jacket. (Sleeveless and me in an office don't mix.)





* * * * *

Answers to some comments:

Carolyn asked, "Are you going to make a few other pieces - skirt, pants another top so that you can mix and match all of the pieces for interviews?"

I'm definitely making more pieces. Whether they all mix and match, probably not. I tend to sew as "outfits" and not a SWAP. And I'll be filling in with RTW because there's no way I can sew an entire office wardrobe in a matter of weeks. And, yes, I already thought about the 2nd interview scenario. ;-)

Nancy K asked, (About buttons) "There are some good places online. Have you tried any?"

I haven't yet. The problem is I don't *know* I need buttons until I know what the fabric will be and I'm well into the project and then I'm too impatient. I have a hard time picking out buttons for garments which don't yet exist. Not a problem with fabric, just with buttons. Which is why I don't have a good button stash.

CandyO asked, "This is your first lined jacket? Wow. That makes me feel a little better about my own abilities, since I just assumed you were awesome at all things sewing. ... Is that the McCall's Nanette Lepore knockoff?"

You're funny! I am most definitely NOT "awesome at all things sewing." Yes, this is my first lined jacket. And even with this, I haven't lined the sleeves so I still have that hump to jump at some later point. There just hasn't been much need for a lined jacket in my SAHM world. I know there's plenty of other sewing related things/skills I haven't done/mastered yet. That's one of the things I love/hate about sewing ... so much to learn and stay challenged, so much to screw up on. LOL!

And sort of. The jacket is actually KS 3368, with the waistbands and sleeves inspired by that McCall's pattern.

Myrna asked, "I know who Belinda is but who is Carolyn? Does she have a blog I'd like to read."

Carolyn is DiaryofASewingFanatic. I bet you already follow her blog and didn't realize they were one and the same.

New Blouse To Wear Tomorrow

Now that the alterations have been done, this is definitely a blouse I can cut and sew in an afternoon, which is great because I want to make it again in a less … er … vibrant color. I'll take a pic of me wearing it tomorrow, but for now here it is on Zillie.



I thought I'd be stalled again at the buttons but can you believe this match?? There they were, just waiting in the button bin, and plentiful in number too. Yeah, they're shank buttons that I had to sew on by (gasp!) hand, but I managed to trudge through it. ;-)



Here's the final back pattern piece which was changed to sew with a CB seam. The red line is the old CB cut-on-fold line. I kept the width at the top since I wanted to keep the same density of gathering. Instead of adding two waist darts as I was first contemplating, I scooped out the center back at waist level, which is where the extra fabric really needed to be removed. This worked out well. I also removed most of the extra width added at the sideseam area and some more width was removed at CB because my new seam line is 1/2" in from the original CB. With these changes, the "essence" of the blouse is intact but the tent effect is greatly reduced (it's still a loose-fitting blouse, so there is some "tent" but in a good way, if you know what I mean!). The last tweak was to lower the front and back armholes about 1/4" because one last try-on of the muslin told me I should do that (and the muslin was right).



Speaking of the armholes and sleeves, the Simplicity instructions said to sew the sleeves in the round and insert them very early on in the construction, before any of the gathering. This is just plain stupid (it's a raglan sleeve on a very casual blouse!) and a royal pain when gathering all the un-flat pieces to the yoke. Instead, I did everything flat and then sewed the sideseams and underarm seams last.

There were a couple of comments with questions related to this blouse so I'll answer them now while I'm thinking about it.

OP Gal: "I'm always confused, though, as to what the term "overfitting" means."

For this blouse, it meant that I didn't want to end up with a fitted blouse when I was making a loose, very casual top. I had to accept that there would be some fullness/tenting. For other garments, I think overfitting means taking alterations to the extreme so that it's no longer comfortable to wear and/or flattering. It's better to have fabric skim lumps/bumps instead of accentuate them, and that can happen when fitting becomes overfitting. At least that's my take.

Laceflower: "I too need to do the FBA but patterns never mark the bust point any more. How do you begin with out this needed landmark?"

I either hold the tissue up to me and mark my actual bust point or I'll just guess my best. For me, it's usually obvious where the general vicinity of the apex is on patterns that aren't marked. If I guess wrong, the muslin will let me know. I really am just a fly/sew by the seat of my pants kinda girl. ;-)

Cathy: "I have a question re the alteration on the front side seam. You split the pattern there and spread inserting the needed room. Am I accomplishing the same thing by just adding that measurement to the outer edge of the pattern or am I missing some part of the idea?"

By sliding the seam allowance out like I did, the sideseams of both pieces will still match up perfectly when I'm sewing them. It's like altering a pattern with NO seam allowances and then adding them later. Alterations really need to be done within the body of the pattern, not the seam allowances.

Photos and Answers

The Burda blouse is done, laundered, pressed (arghhh!) and reviewed, here. As I mentioned in the review, the wind was really howling when I was taking these photos (which was a comedy in itself, try to snap pics between gusts) and the back view shows how it plastered the blouse against my butt. There is actually plenty of ease back there but you'd never know it by this pic.



The Jalie skirt was originally reviewed, here. My expression here looks rather odd, but at least it's a modeled pic, right? And no, Carolyn, I don't have a brown cardigan. But I'm thinking I should since it would blend into my wardrobe rather nicely.

Click on any of the photos to see larger versions.

* * * * *

Now to answer some questions from recent comments.

Nancy K, (re the Jalie skirt above): "This is view D?"

Yes, view D. The skirt with the 8 gores and non-godet flounce.

Laceflower (re the Burda blouse): "Debbie, you feeling OK? This is the tamest fabric I've seen you purchase."

LOL! Well, sometimes I do need some boring solid colors in the wardrobe. They can't all be wild prints.

Anna Szabo (re the Burda blouse): "Great blouse and I love the fabric I have a question. We appear to have similar shapes. I know you wrote me before that you draft up to the desired size using a similar increment that is used between the sizes of the existing pattern. I got the impression that you also used software to draft your pattern. I do not have the software but would like to do this shirt in my size. 16-18 in the big 4 patterns. Do you think this is possible without the software?"

Thank you! Yes, it's very possible to make this without software and without the pattern. You'll need a fitted blouse that has a side dart and you'll need to be willing to chop up a pattern and make a couple of muslins. The previous posts, here and here, show how to morph a regular fitted blouse into the shapes of the Burda pattern.

Nancy K: "I just looked at your jeans fly front zipper tutorial which is really excellent. How about a tutorial on that great waistband?"

When I make my next pair of jeans/capris, I'll try to remember to take photos. I'm not sure that it's tutorial-worthy though. ;-) Is there something specific you have a question about?

Alison: "… I believe you only want to baste one of them (the one that gets topstitched). This is because the placket is slipped in between the folded-in placket and the blouse and is caught in the topstitching. Now this can't be done if it's already been basted shut (Luckily I'm lazy and only basted one side)."

I did finally figure out what Burda meant, but thank you. I wanted to point out to you, though, that when Burda instructions state to "baste," they usually mean with pins. So, if you keep that in mind, you won't have a problem with something being unmoveable because it's been stitch-basted.

Joanne: "I copied a rtw blouse, got the "V" neckline perfect, but my sleeve doesn't fit my armhole, so I'll need to make another sleeve, that's my problem. Can you tell me how to draft a sleeve that will fit into an existing armhole?"

I've never drafted a sleeve from scratch in my life. But what I would do is to use a sleeve and armhole that I know work for me and then copy them onto the new pattern. Just substitute the good armhole by tracing over it onto the new pattern and then use the sleeve that goes with it. I'm all about doing things the easy way. ;-) HTH

Nancy K: "Thought you might be interested to know how your old posts are a great resource. I am making a welt pocket in pants and I referred back to this post to see where you put yours and what you used for stabilizer."

Thank you Nancy. I'm glad to know that what I write is helpful down the road.

Ann's Fashion Studio: "What pattern do you use for the boys boxers? They look great."
Thank you! I used a now-OOP Simplicity pattern, Simp 8150. I'm sure there must be a replacement pattern available or you can probably find this one on ebay.

Becky W (re the Button foot): "Looks way more functional than my Janome button sewing on foot. Mine does not have the elevation of the button on the garment. I end up getting the button in place and using a sharp pointed wooden skewer (spelling?) from the kitchen to give something to stitch over to give some thread shank to the button. Any ideas for a comperable generic?"

I wish I could be helpful on this but I tend to buy most feet directly from my Viking dealer. I do have some generics, but this isn't one of them. Maybe this one will work?

Mail Call

I'm still in a slight sewing funk so not much has been happening in the sewing room besides mending, cleaning, and sorting. But the mailbox hasn't noticed. Friday, the latest Threads arrived and yesterday was a bonanza of Stitches, Burda WOF and Ottobre Woman.

This issue of Threads is one of the best in a while IMO. The articles are more in-depth and not just 2-pagers with lots of white space. I loved the two costuming articles even though costuming is not one of my true interests. And how cool to find out that the Cirque de Soleil's production offices are nearly local to me. There's also a jeans article from Sandra Betzina which, of course, caught my eye. It was interesting to read how her process differs from mine (construction order, mainly). And I like anything Kenneth King writes so another welcome article there.

Australian Stitches, on the other hand, seems to be going in the other direction. I'm sad about that because I've really enjoyed not just another sewing magazine but one with an international flavor. Aussie girls … I know you're a few issues ahead of this one, can I hope for better things to come?

Both the Ottobre and Burda magazines have patterns I'm putting on my (neverending) list. Pattern Review is running a fitted blouse contest this month so maybe I'll pick something from one of these and actually get it made before the deadline. Or maybe it will be another pattern. But I really do need and want to make some summer blouses and I'm hoping to get my act together this week and make some progress.

While I'm waiting for the magic spark, I do have 3 more pairs of boxers for DS cut out and I'll work on those this afternoon. I traced the no-sideseam pattern so I could add sideseams. That took all of 10 minutes, and now the big scraps from the first round of boxers have been used efficiently and are not going back to the stash closet.

Oh, before I forget again, I'll answer some comments:

"May I ask what brand of bread machine you use and if you would recommend it/buy it again?" I have a Black & Decker, but it's at least 8 years old. I know it must've been updated since then so I don't know how the quality compares these days. But I'd definitely buy my same machine again, if I could.

"You'd think I'd know what you mean by "cook the chicken", but I'm wondering if you saute/fry it? bake it? nuke it?" I just stir-fry it with a bit of cooking spray in the frypan.

"Can you tell me where you got the midget sunflower seeds?" They were part of the "Artisan" mix from King Arthur flour.

"What program do you use to outline your work on the computer? I have such a hard time with Adobe Photoshop Elements." I'm a Corel girl (I used to do tech support work for Corel way back when) and I use CorelDraw and Photo-Paint. I also use Illustrator and Photoshop, but not as much and not for quickie things like those outlines.

(Re the purse accessories I made for my mom)"Did you use in the hoop embroidery techniques or just make them from scratch?" Just from scratch and no pattern. I used a tape measure to measure around a pair of sunglasses and a tissue pack.

(Re the Burda wrap top) "I look at those wrap tops and think, "yeah right!" But that one looks really great on you! I might have missed it but what fabric did you use and from what source?" Thanks, and the fabric came from Melody at Fashionista Fabrics.

If I missed your question, I apologize. Please feel free to ask again. :-)

Answering Comments

No sewing yet this weekend. I've been doing some painting. Trim that needed a second coat, some touch-ups, some trim that hadn't been touched yet. I may even get to the french doors in the family room that I've been avoiding for almost 2 years! And there's a few items in the mending pile in the sewing room that will need attention before I start another project. This afternoon is football playoffs so I'm pretty sure I won't be sewing today, but I can probably paint those doors while the games are on. But it's a long weekend so there's still tomorrow for sewing.

In the meantime, I thought I'd answer some comments before they stack up too much. And I'll plead again that if you are posting as "Anonymous," please sign a name just so I know who you are in order to distinguish your notes from others.

From Kris O:
I love your bags. My mom loves VB bags. What are your favorite sources for the pre-quilted fabric?

Thank you! I don't really have "favorite" sources since I don't make too many of these anymore. This particular fabric came from Fabric.com. They have a prequilted section on the website and with a little bit of looking through the other quilting cottons, you can find unquilted coordinates for the prequilted selections.

From Mia & Rose:
Yes, BurdaPlus does have archives. They are in the German pages, under "Archiv Sonderhefte" (extra/special issues archive).

Thank you, thank you!! I will be using this a LOT!

From Arielle:
I'm just discovering your post (was away on vacation) and I wonder if you could tell me the brands and sizes of your rulers? Especially the French Curve one.

The French curve is the Styling Design Ruler and I bought it from Nancy's Notions. I just recently bought another since I've really put some wear and tear on my original. I also have a Dritz clear, flexible plastic ruler (from Joann's), and the others are mainly clear quilting Olfa quilting rulers.

From Anonymous:
Is it possible to reduce the leg width by taking it out at the seams which run down the center back of each leg?

Yes. And in a perfect world, that's what I'd do. But since I had already cut the fabric and sewn/topstitched the center seams, I opted for the less painful sideseams.

From Marji:
Is this pair of pants the candidate to go with your most recent top?

Well, while they do match in color, I don't think they match in style. So, no. Still no pants (or hem) for the recent top.

From Izzie:
So, you achieved this fit with just the cut and slide at the knee and the tuck at the knee? No FED?

Correct, no FED. I haven't been using the FED for a while. Before this latest round with Minott, I was using wedges (slash/overlap or spread), like this.

From Designdreamer:
Now I'm not sure if they're full in the "inner part", (but my guess is yes,) but I KNOW they're full in the FRONT. Is there a different alteration for this?

There is. And it should be found in most good pants fitting books. But, truthfully, I don't know all the methods off the top of my head since I don't use them so I don't have any specific advice.

From Anonymous:
Do you plan on doing a review of the Minott books you bought? I have been looking to buy some good reference books but looking at some of the reviews on PR, It kind of puts me off.... I wondered if the books she is selling are just copies of earlier books or are different than earlier publications.

No, I don't plan to review any of the Minott books because I haven't really read them cover to cover. Well, without my eyes glazing over because the information is very disjointed and badly organized. Mostly, they are drafting books, although one is a convoluted (to me) method for altering commercial patterns. I think most of the information in these books can be found in better form in other sources. But there are the "wrinkle charts" which are good references for alterations and a few of the problems/solutions are not easily found elsewhere. So, I keep them around for that. But, really, that's only about 20 pages out of hundreds so unless you're shaped like me or want to draft patterns from scratch using her methods, then it's probably not a worthwhile purchase. And, yes, I think the books available on that website are indeed (legal) photocopies of previous publications.

From Anonymous:
I will also definitely get rid of both my Palmer Pletsch books. They do nothing for me. I purchased them because people raved. Maybe they raved because of the colourful illustrations, I don't know but I have never found them helpful or informative.

Hmmm. I'm sorry but I have to disagree here. I love the P/P books! Slash/spread is the method I use the most and these books cover all of that in great detail. They also have a lot of valuable fitting information, especially diagnosing the wrinkles. I don't think there is a more comprehensive or easy-to-understand fitting series, especially as a jumping-off point. While I may not now agree with every single solution, I do with the majority of them.

But different strokes and all that, and if you still want to get rid of them, I'm sure you'll have no trouble reselling the books.

And my favorite comment about my latest pants:
From Meg:
I think EVERYBODY feels that way about their bodies in January!
How true!! Thank you for the reality check! And yes, Meg, feel free to use "elastification". LOL!

Answering Some Comments

Thank you EVERYONE for all the nice comments you leave for me. It's really nice to read them and I appreciate it very much.

Some answers to some recent questions:

Nancy K: "What pattern are you using for your jeans? They look great."

Thanks! I'm using Simplicity 4068, OOP (link to my review on PR). The pattern has back waist darts, not a yoke. I added a yoke for my last make.

Gaylen: (On the shirts for my FIL and DS) Can we get more info on the fabrics - where purchased, etc.

Believe it or not (I still can't), the fabric comes from Joann's. It's a cotton/poly blend jersey with some body. Perfect for loungewear. It was a recent purchase (I bought white too, and that's what I used for yesterday's Ottobre tee) so it should still be available.

Kat: DH has just requested a Dolphins shirt in the same style. Do you use Embird for the embroidered letters?

Actually, I used my HV "VIP Quick Font." It's an older program now, but I don't do nearly enough embroidery to warrant upgrading it. I have Embird for editing and have thought about the Font Engine because I hear it does a pretty good job. But the program I do have does OK too, so I just keep using it.

Laceflower: Please share how you made the iron on logo for your DH.
Julie: How did you make the iron-on logo?

First, I already had the font from a project for a local client or else I probably would've spent hours looking for it. But that's not really what you're asking, I think. The iron-on is easy-peasy. You just need transfer paper for dark fabrics. It has a white base, instead of clear like you usually find at places like Office Depot, etc. Then you print on it with an inkjet just like regular printer paper, peel off the backing, arrange it on the tee/whatever, cover it with the parchment paper/vellum that's included in the pack, and press with a dry iron for 20-30 seconds. I buy mine from PrintOnIt.com It lasts pretty well, although after a lot (think teen sons) of laundering, it does begin to crack a little. Not bad though, and it doesn't flake off and the colors don't fade. You just end up with a "distressed" iron-on, which is still very fashionable. ;-)

Jodi: What pattern is your jacket? I looked at your earlier entries, but I couldn't find it. I really like it.

Thank you! It's #128 from the 04/2006 issue of Burda WOF. My review is here. If you click on "Jackets" in the Labels in my sidebar (scroll down, down), it should bring up all the entries related to making it. I don't make many jackets so those entries shouldn't be hard to single out.

Teddylyn: My youngest DS is a Redskins fan too and would love it if I could figure out how to digitize the logo like you did!

Send me an email to djc at cedesign dot com and I'll send it to you. It's for BIG hoops. Let me know what format you need.

Carolyn: And exactly how many Ottobre tees do you have now?

Counting the PJs I just made, I think I'm up to 10.

bishopfamily: May I ask what Ottobre you use?

All of my recent tees are from the 02/2007 issue of Ottobre Woman. It's still available on the Ottobre website here (click on English) and I think The Woolly Thread sells them too.

kasizzle: Wish I could get away with doing laundry only once a week!

Me too! I meant one load per week of *my* colored laundry which I separate from any of the boys' things out of self-preservation. ;-) BTW, I looked at your profile and if I'm not mistaken, you are in Valrico too? Is that right?

And now for some really old questions which I forgot to answer earlier:

Could I ask you whether you do a 'standard' FBA on your tops or do you have to start afresh with each and every one?

I'll quickly tissue fit a new pattern and make an FBA based on that, so yes, pretty much a new one for every pattern. I also use TNT patterns for comparison and will sometimes do the FBA based on that.

shorty: Oh one more thing about those chevrons, can you elaborate more on which direction they should go?

I think chevrons on a plus-size figure should be oriented so that the vee points down. That way, the illusion of the widest part of the chevron is not opening up and making waist & hips look larger. Instead, it's opening up at your face and creating the expected hourglass female figure. But that's just my 2 cents. ;-)

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Chili has poked me in the leg with his nose at least 50 times while I was writing this (it's so darn cute, too). It's time for their walk and they know it, so that's what I'm off to do. And yep, Dani seems to be good as new. It's been one week since she was spayed and her incision is healing nicely so I'm going to let them run and run today. Maybe she'll exhaust her energy chasing Chili instead of on my patterns. ;-)

Answering Comments

First, the "bad" news is that I won't be showing the costume from yesterday. It left the sewing room after the ruffles were done and DS's girlfriend will be finishing it. It's a baby outfit (big size), for a play she's working on. She's a drama major and it's another student's original play for which she's doing some of the costumes. Nothing for Halloween, even though I did post on Halloween. That was just a coincidence. But really, it wasn't that exciting. Trust me. ;-) A pink Walmart tee with ruffles around the bottom and around the sleeves. It just took a LOT of flat strips to get enough length of ruffled strips to go around it and when she was here one day talking about it, we brainstormed together and ended up doing the ruffles on my machines.

Onto the questions …

What would I look for from the Ebay gadget guy in generic fellers for my Janome CS?

Keep in mind that I've never actually used any of these generic fellers since I bought actual Babylock fellers before finding the Ebay guy, but this looks like the equivalent, even though it's described as a Juki sewing machine attachment. When looking at all the choices from this seller for fellers/folders, the important features to note are whether the folder/feller is downturn (like I showed), upturn (which flips the edge UP), single (one fold under or up) or "clean finish" (two folds down). I like the swinging out feature of his generics, which would let me move the attachment out of the way without actually removing it. Also, I don't think his prices for these particular attachments are any great savings over what I paid for mine, which I think was in the neighborhood of about $20 per. They're reasonable, just not a big bargain.

Do you have any tips for using a hemmer on a regular sewing machine?

You have to start with the leading edge pressed under twice, the same width as the hemmer will fold. You stitch for about an inch with the edge not yet in the hemmer foot. Then you stop with the needle down and work the edge into the hemmer. After that, you've got to hold the fabric feeding into the hemmer at a slight angle (toward your left) and up, and keep even pressure on it as it feeds into the hemmer. It takes practice. And patience. ;-)

On your latest Ottobre top, looks perfect for the season....where do you purchase your bindings?

Thank you! For the binding, I just cut strips of knits I have on hand. Nothing that is specifically a "binding." Those knits come from all over.

When you do the wedge alteration, and the grainline *is* thrown off, then what?

You have to redraw it. Fold the bottom hem in half to find the center and then square a line up the leg from the hem.

(About my cat) DON'T SCARE ME LIKE THAT! You heifer! :D I just KNEW he was going to die (LMAO at "he wasn't going to off himself" tho!!)

Angie, you always crack me up! Gizmo is doing great. No more limp at all. Nothing to show he was ever injured. He's back to his usual routine of hanging around outside, sleeping in the garage, drinking the dogs' water, and eating yummy (not!) cat food.

I have a question about your sewing dummy. Have you padded it or how do you make it work for a full bust?

Yes, I've padded it. For the bust, I stuffed one of my bras with fiberfill and she wears it under a camisole. I took photos of the process, here, but since then I've removed the lower padding because it looked strange and lumpy under some tops and skirts. I've been meaning to re-do it smoother, but I haven't gotten my round tuit yet. But that's because I've been sewing mostly TNT (tried-n-true) patterns lately. When I need a better fit model, I'll be more motivated to re-pad.

Another Tee & Other Stuff

I think Belinda and I are in a race to see who can sew the most tees from 02/2007 issue of Ottobre Woman. ;-) This is my third and she's up to three (four??) too. This one is design #5, but I used plain sleeves instead of the puff, banded sleeves from the pattern that I used for the first one. I also remembered (too late) that I sewed the first neckband with a smaller seam allowance so it would turn out a little wider. This purple neckband is narrower than the other. It's still perfectly fine though, and not anything I'd point out in real life. I've now made a note on the pattern piece so hopefully I won't forget the next time. And yes, there's definitely going to be a next time, and a next time, and a next time with these Ottobre tees!

I edgestitched the neckband with my sewing machine (per the instructions) this time, instead of twin needling with my coverstitch machine. This is good for a little change but I think I prefer the double needle effect. Next time I won't be so lazy about rethreading, which I had to do anyway for the hems.

(Oh, and before you ask, the fabric is from Lucy's Fabrics, but it's sold out.)



Next up, some answers to comments. After that, a little meme. Don't worry, no personal info required! Keep reading to see if you've been tagged.

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"I really love the look of this top with the cute tie and gathers in front. Did you use a particular pattern, or is it another variation of one of your TNT tops?"


Thank you! It's from the 06/2005 issue of Burda WOF, and yes, it's a very TNT pattern. It's one of my favorites, as you can see below. I've made it 4 times now. I was trying on the latest aqua top last night before tossing it into the laundry to get it back into shape and I decided that this pattern, with short sleeves and the ties sewn in place, will make a great nightgown too. So that's on my list for someday too.

Here are the photos of the past versions, and the Burda line drawing:









(Regarding sewing lingerie) "What if your machine doesn't have a three stitch zig zag?(Mine doesn't.) What's the next best thing?"

A regular medium zigzag stitch.

"On the panties that I just made, I used my CS machine. Some of the stitches popped. I think that is because I wasn't using wooly nylon. Maybe I should use the 3-step ZZ instead. Is this why you don't use the CS for elastic in panties?"

Wooly nylon in the looper and regular sewing thread in the needles should help prevent the stitches from popping. But, yes, that's why I don't CS for panties. The triple ZZ just seems to hold up better, and it's faster to do since you don't have to keep switching machines, etc.

"On the last picture of the overlapped ends (of lingerie elastic), I can't tell where it's overlapped. Do you zig zag horizontally across, or do a zig zag the length of the overlap?"

I zigzag the length of the overlap. I've added a photo to the tutorial on my website which should help explain.

"I am curious as to whether you have used Curves software to create panties or do you prefer the KS pattern?"

I haven't used Curves for panties. No reason, really, except that I have the Kwik Sew pattern perfected for me so no need to reinvent the wheel. I did like having the instructions for the first time I made them, which you don't get with a self-draft in Curves.

"I like this top a lot. Can you show the trim up close? I see that you bound the neckline, but is that what you did on the sleeve hems? Which pattern is the skirt? It looks great with the top."

Thank you! Here are some close-up pics. The sleeve hems are just straight strips of cross-grain knit, sewn into rounds and pressed in half and then applied in the round with my serger. I coverstitched the seam allowances up with my coverstitch machine. The sleeve pattern (from Ottobre Woman) is gathered at the top and onto the band. I pinned the band onto the bottom of the sleeve 1:1 until about 2 inches on either side of the outward center. Then I just stretched the heck out of it while I serged. ;-) That's why you see a little gathering at that area. It's supposed to be there. After a trip through the laundry, it will be back in shape.

The skirt is my ol' TNT, Kwik Sew 3287.








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Finally, here's the meme. The "rules" are simple. Answer the questions, add photos if you want (or steal mine), and tag 5 other sewing bloggers.

1. What kind of seam ripper do you use?

I use this one. They are very sharp and stay sharp a long time. But they're cheap when they need replacing. I buy mine from Nancy's Notions for under $3.98 each. And I buy 2 at a time so I always have a sharp one.



2. What do you use to snip threads at the sewing machine?

I use these little Gingher curved embroidery scissors. They're very sharp, and easy to grab quickly.



3. What do you use to cut out patterns/fabric?

Mostly my Olfa 60 mm rotary cutter, even around tight curves. I like that it covers more "real estate" at once than the smaller cutters. I use the 20 mm cutter to cut traced patterns which need a seam allowance added. I wish there was a seam allowance thingy for the 60 mm cutter. The spring-loaded Fiskars are used mostly for cutting notches/snips and other miscellaneous tasks.



4. Do you stash zippers?

Yep. I love not having to run to the store for a zipper. Not that the local stores ever have the right color anyway. ;-)



5. Which takes up more space in your stash — knits or wovens?

Knits, hands down. Probably 65-75% of my stash is knit fabric.

6. Are you wearing anything today that you made?

Yes. I made everything except my bra, shoes, and jewelry. More specifically, I'm wearing the orangey gathered front top you see above, khaki knit capris, and (TMI) one pair of my newest undies.

7. Does anyone else in your family currently sew?

Yes, my mom sews. My sister owns a sewing machine but she doesn't really sew.


8. What is the last $$ sewing-related (non-fabric) item you bought?

I think it was my big cutting mat.

9. Cutting out, pressing, hemming. Which one do you like the LEAST?

Hemming. I usually just wing it, by eye. ;-)

10. Do you have any non-chain garment fabric stores in your local area?

Yes, there are 2-3. But I usually shop the internet because it's more convenient. These stores are nice, but they are about a 30- to 60-minute drive.

OK, I tag: Belinda, Gaylen, Beki, Erica, and Angie.

Lingerie Elastic

Taly, this is for you. :-)

(I've put this info into my Tips pages — link at top right — if anyone needs to quickly find it again.)

I use 1/4" and 3/8" plush-back picot elastic. The sample 3/8" elastic is not plush-back but it will work for this series of photos.

1. Pre-stretch the elastic a few times and then align the straight, non-picot edge of the elastic with the raw edge of the fabric.



2. Attach the elastic to the fabric, sewing next to the picot edge of the elastic with a narrow zig-zag stitch. (The elastic may stretch out during this step but steam or a trip through the laundry will pop it back into shape.)




3. Turn to the back and trim close to the zigzag stitching. I use my duckbill scissors for this. It doesn't have to be especially neat as this edge will not show on the finished item.



4. Fold the elastic to the wrong side so the picot edge peeks out from the right side. Stitch on the right side using a 3-step zigzag stitch. (The brown layer of fabric is here only so you can see the picot edge.)




5. This is what the 3-step zigzag stitch looks like on my machine.



6. This is the wrong side of the last stitching. If your thread matches your elastic, it's nearly invisible. The 3-step zigzag stitching can be anywhere between the 2 edges of the elastic. Ideally, mine would be overlapping the straight edge of the elastic to hold it down in a more finished-looking manner (which means I needed to sew more to the left in Step 4), but I was making a fast sample and wasn't paying close enough attention. ;-) I'll try to remember to update this photo when I have a better sample.



I've used other methods to attach the elastic, including trying out my serger's elasticator foot and also my coverstitch machine. (See photos here). In my opinion, the method above using only the sewing machine is the best for durability and comfort in the normal course of lingerie wear. The other methods work fine initially, but the extra thread and stitches cause elastic fatigue and result in more popped stitches. The panties I sewed that way just didn't hold up as long as those sewn from the same fabric but using only the sewing machine.

By the way, I sew leg and waist elastic on in the round. I overlap the cut edges of the elastic as shown below. I think it creates less bulk than a RS-together seam with the allowances pressed back. The overlap goes at the outside of the leg and the back waist.

This Is So Silly

I don't know whether to laugh at or slap myself. I am just dragging my heels getting these panties finished. That's them, in a heap, on my cutting table. All sewn, awaiting the elastic in the other two heaps. Panties aren't hard to sew. At all. They don't take a lot of time. Even when making multiple pairs at a time. And I love having them when I'm done. But I just don't like doing the same thing again and again and again, and so I'm avoiding them and what should've taken a day or two has now stretched into many, many days. Sigh. I know all this yet, I can't stop my mind from wandering to the next project. And I won't let myself move on until these are done. Maybe it's 2 mostly rainy days in a row, but all I want to do is take naps and read. But I will finish these tonight and tomorrow they'll be behind me. Literally. ;-)

Earlier today, I was sewing the elastic into rounds and took a pic of one of my favorite sewing "notions," given to me personally by Martha Pullen about 5 years ago. OK, she gave everyone in the class one too. ;-) It's a simple little bamboo stick with a pointy tip, not even made for sewing. I'm not sure exactly what is is made for, though. It's not a shish kebab skewer, it's shorter and fatter than those. Anyway … I use it to hold things in place really close to the needle, where I'd rather not be sticking my finger. Since it's bamboo, the worst that will happen is the needle will hit it, stab it, and maybe break. Better a needle than my finger. I will be sad if I ever lose this.



Since I'm still obviously avoiding the sewing room, I'll answer a few comments.

"Relating to the crotch lining, would power dry also be suitable to use in this area?"

I don't really know for sure as I've never used it. My first inclination, though, is to say no since powerdry is polyester and doesn't breathe. Yes, it wicks moisture away, but in that area of a panty, where exactly would it wick TO? Know what I mean? ;-) If anyone has more … uh … experience with this, let me know.

"I'm like a dog with a bone, and I just need to clarify. Some of those kints are just your regular garden variety knits that you're using for t-shirts etc? Just as long as they're slippery?"

Yes, just garden variety knits. And they don't *have* to be slippery if you're wearing them under jeans, etc. I just prefer slippery fabric when I'm wearing a skirt or dress. And I also use what I have and lately I've been sewing with rayon knits that are more slippery than cotton knits. Experiment and see what you like.

Regarding the purple bra/panty set, "Nylon takes dye?!???!!!! Who woulda thunk it? Please tell me you're not dying your thread? I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, but wouldn't you just use purple poly thread???"

That set started out white and I didn't know what color it was going to be until I dyed it. It could've been green or pink or orange or whatever mood struck that day. If I knew it was going to be purple (and that the white poly thread didn't take dye), I might have used purple poly thread. But the beauty of nylon thread is that it will dye to the same exact shade as the rest of the lingerie so I don't have to worry about matching up beforehand.

"Just wanted to ask with a (wink) if you will be modelling the undies too?"

Um. No. Consider yourself lucky. LOL!

Monday Miscellany

Monday again? How did that happen?

First up in this hodgepodge of a post today … This is the flower on the tee after it came out of the laundry (washer/dryer). Somewhat wadded up, but not unrecognizable.



And here it is after a 15-second pressing job. So I think it will stay since it's not a pain in the neck to make nice again.



Next … instead of cutting out panties like I originally planned to do, I put together the double welt pocket tutorial. Best to do that while it was still fresh in my mind. You can go to it now directly here, or later you can find it by clicking Sewing & Pattern Tips in the upper right of the sidebar. If you find errors, glaring or otherwise, let me know. Here's a preview of the sample piece. That red edgestitching really makes a statement, no? ;-)



Some replies to comments …

"Ack! What do you mean it's always a crap shoot with pants, even with a TNT pattern?"

LOL! I didn't mean that as literally as it came off the fingers. I just mean that changing up fabrics or hem lengths or waist treatments also can introduce that pesky human error element. The basic pattern will fit as long as your body hasn't done a major change since, but you'll always need to tweak something or other.

"Where do you get your pant wt fabric? I too live in FL and am constantly looking for cool, kewl fabrics and your choices fit both."

Thanks! The fabric for the latest capris came from Lucy's Fabrics, click here to go directly to it while it lasts. It's a blend — 70% Polyester / 25% Rayon / 5% Spandex, sometimes also known as RPL (rayon/poly/Lycra). Some RPLs are great; some aren't. This one is great.

"I love the flower - you should keep it. Did you have to adjust the body of the tee for the wider neckline?"

I probably should've to be technically correct. But I was lazy and didn't. I figured I had already eyeballed the front shape into that curve for the gathering and it wouldn't matter much to attach it to a slightly wider neckband. It worked out fine, I think.

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And finally, thank you everyone for the really nice comments about my blog, poochies, and everything. I've been enjoying myself too. My 1st Blogiversary was yesterday, which I can't believe I forgot! Guess what I was doing a year ago? Making underwear. See, it really is time for some new undies. And on that note, it's time to get cutting!