Fixing a gaping neck, after the fact

So you've just sewn your knit neckline/neckband carefully and correctly and STILL end up with The Gapes, like this:

And then you end up with a big case of The Mehs when you had such high hopes for a cute top/dress using that pretty fabric you just bought (or sacrificed from the stash).

Well first, stop beating yourself up. It happens to all of us and doesn't make you a sewing failure. Sometimes bad things just happen to good fabric and/or techniques. Next, get yourself some elastic thread, like this:

And a big-eyed, blunt-end needlepoint needle, like this (the blunt end is important so you don't snag the fabric and make a difficult task of threading the elastic through):

Cut a LONG piece of the elastic thread, roughly 2-1/2 times the length of the neckline area you need to fix, stretch it a couple of times, and thread your needle with it. Then, push the needle under the stitching that's holding down the neckline/neckband, starting at one shoulder seam.

Make sure you get the needle up into the space above the stitches, like threading elastic through a casing (which is pretty much exactly what this will end up as). Work the needle/elastic through the whole length of the gaping area and leave a long tail on the end you started from (this is why you need to use a long length of elastic).

Push the needle out at the back of the other shoulder seam and into/through the serger stitches (or seam allowances if you haven't serged) of the shoulder seam, and ...

... tie a knot. Make sure your knot is behind the shoulder seam, since you've pressed those to the back (right?) and want any elastic tension to pull toward the back.

Next, go back to that long elastic tail you left at the beginning and pull the elastic taut enough to cause rippling but not enough to create actual gathers. The neckline isn't going to lay flat now, but that's OK because it *will* lay flat on you.

And tie it off at the starting shoulder seam, again behind the actual seam. (If you leave your needle threaded while you do this, getting through the loops of the knot is easier.) Finally, unthread the needle and trim your thread tails.

Now be happy again because your new top/dress with that fabric you can't believe you just "wasted" is now a keeper! Look Ma! No gapes and ...

... no gathering.

I won't tell anyone if you won't. ;-)

This little fix works for front necklines/neckbands too. Just run your elastic through the front instead of the back and make your knots in front of the shoulder seams. If you need to fix back AND front, do it in two steps, using two lengths of elastic (or 3, if you have a vee or wrap neck) so you can keep the "drawing up" effect of the elastic separate, which will work better than one long piece of elastic thread doing all the work in different locations.

You're welcome. :-)

Tutorial: Turning a Raglan Into a Cowl With Contrast Panel (and Giveaway)

I did finish my tops yesterday and then my book last night, so it will be off to the library this morning.

Here is the finished remake of the original Walmart top. The only changes I made were to change the black contrast panel to white and hem it about 3" shorter. I'm very happy with this change, especially since it netted me a raglan pattern for "free."

Inside view

Here's the new top I made from the pattern I traced off the parts of the Walmart top while I had it ripped apart deconstructed. Yes, I'm wearing THOSE orange sandals again ;-) and sporting a wet head.

To make this top, you need a knit raglan pattern with a scoop neckline. I actually didn't have a TNT that fit this bill or else I probably wouldn't have been so inclined to rip apart the Walmart tee. As I've been learning just now, finding a pattern for a plain raglan top is easier said than done (unless you win yesterday's Giveaway), but I did find one in the Kwik Sew line, here. This is obviously a hole in the Big 3/4's catalogs. I wonder why.

Anyway …

Once you have a pattern, you need to trace an additional front piece onto tissue or pattern paper. Don't cut the tracing until you've made the changes because you're going to be extending beyond the original pattern lines.

To make the cowl overlay, you need to extend the center front about 1-1/2" inches at the neckline (on half a pattern, for a total of 3"),  tapering to nothing at the hem. If you want more cowl, extend more than 1-1/2". Next you will draw the cowl facing. The facing is shown below from the dotted green line upward and is shaped so that when folded down, it fits exactly onto the neckline of the new pattern piece. The differences between the original front and the new cowl are outlined in green. Hopefully, a picture is worth a thousand words here. However, not shown here and important is that the cowl front should match the back at the sideseams, but the contrast panel is about 3-4" shorter at the hem edge than the front and back pieces. It must be shorter so that its bottom edge doesn't show when the top is worn and so that both fronts can be hemmed independently. Since the contrast is your original pattern, just fold up the bottom edge before cutting fabric.

So, now that you have your pattern (right?), it's time to start construction. Note that my seam allowances are 1/4" everywhere except the neckline edge (3/8") and the hems (1"). It's easier to turn and stitch a smaller seam allowance. I used a serger and coverstitch machine for construction. If you don't have one or both machines, you can use a slight zigzag stitch for seams and a twin needle for topstitching (or more zigzagging).

Here we go …

First, press under the neckline and bottom hem on the contrast panel. (I use glass head pins on knits that have a mind of their own so I can keep them in place while I position a press cloth and hot iron over top.)

This photo isn't really a step - just showing what your contrast panel should look like now. I'm guessing yours won't be orange, though.

Next, sew the back raglan sleeve seams to the back of the top. Back only — the front will come in a separate step later. After the back sleeve seams are sewn, turn under the neckline edge and press. Depending on your fabric's recovery, you may want to serge or ZZ some clear elastic to this edge before turning under and stitching. My fabric has good recovery so no clear elastic this time, although I did hold the pressed-under edge in place with some bits of Steam-a-Seam 2.

After pressing the neckline edge under, topstitch it in place. I used my coverstitch machine. You can use yours if you have one or a twin needle or a zigzag stitch.

Next, press under the cowl facing on the front.In the photo below, the cowl facing is at the bottom — just easier for me to press while it's in this position.

Lay the front on your table, wrong side up, with the cowl facing still folded to the wrong side. Lay the contrast panel on top of the cowl front, also wrong side up. Pin (or baste) one front sleeve seam, as shown below by the blue "pin" lines. Repeat for the other front sleeve seam, making sure the cowl facing remains folded, to be caught in the front sleeve seam.

When pinning, the cowl edge (with the facing still folded down) should stick out just a hair above the top of the contrast panel, as in the photo below.

Here are both front sleeve seams pinned together. The two fronts won't lay flat now. That's OK.

Next, flip both pieces over so that the cowl front is right side up, as below. You could've pinned/basted with both fronts right side up, but I found it easier to lay the cowl front flat while pinning and then flip.

Next, put the back section (with the sleeves already semi-attached) on top, right side to right side. Pin/baste the sleeve fronts to the cowl/contrast "sandwich" at the sleeve seams, as shown below.

Sew the front sleeve seams so that all three edges plus the cowl facing are caught, as indicated by the blue lines below.

If you're constructing with a serger as I was, keep a long tail at the neck edge and using a blunt large-eyed needle (or your favorite tool), run the tail back through some of the stitching and then trim it, as shown below.

At this point, the sleeves are attached to the fronts and back, but the underarm and sideseams are not yet sewn. So, while your top is still mostly flat, press under the sleeve hems and the front/back hems so you don't have to press in the round. It's just easier. Don't stitch them yet.

Next, with right sides together (the pic below shows wrong sides together, so ignore that part!), stitch the underarm and sideseams in one pass (well, two passes), as shown by the blue lines below.

Stitch the pre-pressed sleeve and bottom hems in place. Do not catch the contrast panel in the bottom hem.

And, voila! Done!

Neckline close-up:

Front inside:

And again, me wearing the new top:

And now for the LAST Giveaway this week  …

… (drum roll)

… a $35 Fabric.com Gift Card!

To enter, leave a comment on this post and I will use the Random Number thingie to pick a winner.

Carolyn commented yesterday, "So you're downsizing right? That's the reason for all the giveaways?"


Nope. If I was actively downsizing, it would take a year of Giveaways. ;-) But what I am doing is "Paying It Forward." I'm sure you all have noticed that I have advertising in the sidebars of this blog. It doesn't generate a lot of cash and it takes a long time to accumulate to where I'm actually paid. But, I did just get a payment and since it's because of you, my readers, I wanted to return the favor. Hence, the Giveaways, and Thank You! for reading and following me and my ramblings. :-)

* * * * *

And the WINNER from the July 12, 2011 Giveaway (Simplicity Fabric Guide) is …

Congratulations meredithp! Please contact me at djc at cedesign dot com with your mailing info no later than Wednesday, July 26, 2011 (after all Winners have been announced, in case of duplicates). If I don't hear from you by then, I will draw another number/name.

Fine print: For all the Giveaways last week and this week, each entrant can only win once and in the case of duplicates, I'll contact you for your choice and then draw again randomly on what's left. Clear? And if you do enter, please check back over the next two weeks to see who won because if I don't hear from you within a few days after announcing winners, I'll draw/decide again. I will close comments on this Giveaway on Monday, July 25 2011 and announce the winner on Tuesday, July 26, 2011. Again, anyone anywhere can enter this or any Giveaway this week.

Bread Buddy Tutorial

I know you've all long forgotten been waiting impatiently for the tutorial. It's finally up at Moda Bake Shop, here.



I never realized the scorn I'd receive about some of the bread that comes into this house, and it looks like the comments (OK, only one so far) followed me to Moda Bake Shop too. The shame!! lol

I was supposed to have Fat Quarters from Moda to offer as a giveaway in conjunction with the MBS posting, but they seem to have been lost in the mail. I've been assured that at some point I will have them and I will offer them up to my readers at that time … and again open myself up to more bread flames. ;-)

Enjoy. (Or not.)

I'm Baking

Just a little heads up that the Bread Buddy tutorial will be delayed until October 5, 2010 because it will be the featured tutorial on the Moda Bake Shop that day. How cool is that?

I tried to schedule it earlier because I know you are waiting, but October 5 was the first available slot. But to make the wait worth it, I'll also have a little giveaway from Moda that day too. Stay tuned!

Tutorial: IKEA Expedit DIY Bins

Pattern: Download HERE You will need Adobe Reader/Acrobat to open the PDF. Assembly instructions and the supply list are on the last page of the pattern.

Supplies:

Per Bin:

8 Fat Quarters or Equivalent (2 yds)
Only 2 FQ will be visible so the remainder of the fabric can be scrap yardage, old/new sheets, muslin, etc.

Corrugated cardboard cut into five (5) 12.75" squares
Must be w/o creases or folds. I bought the Expedit shelves above and had enough cardboard from the packing boxes for all 8 bins.

15" Steam-A-Seam or other fusible web strip

1 Freezer baggie or 1 small piece of clear plastic/vinyl - cut to approximately 2" x 2.5".

1 Piece of scrap paper for label

Tape to hold baggie/plastic in place while sewing

Other sewing/cutting supplies:
Thread, scissors/rotary cutter & mat, ruler, sewing machine, iron & ironing board/mat

Note: If you are planning on these covers to be washable, you will need to pre-wash your fabrics before cutting, and then finish the seam allowances during construction so they don't fray in the laundry. I recommend pinking shears. You can use a serger/overlocker, but read through the instructions and visualize the entire process first so you'll know when/where to overlock.

1. Assemble pattern and lay out on fabric.

In the photo below, the green fabric on top is an actual Fat Quarter (18"x22"), the print underneath is a generous FQ and the plaid is just scrap yardage folded into 2 layers. 4 layers of fabric total. Each of these layers will be one side of the outside of the bin.

2. Cut the fabric. Be sure to save those strips as shown below to use for the cuff and the handle.

3. You'll have other scraps left and if you're a quilter, I'm sure you can find a use for them.

4. Using the same "house" pattern piece, cut out 4 lining pieces. I was doing assembly-line sewing for 4 bins, so I've got 12 lining pieces here from an unloved king-sized sheet, with plenty of leftover.

5. Next up is cutting out the cuff pieces (below left). The pattern is divided into 2 sections. If you're doing this on the cheap like me, you will use the shorter section for the "public" side of the bin and the longer piece for the sides that don't show, joining them up to form a 51" x 4.5" band.

If you're spendy :-), don't divide the cuff pattern and use it whole.

From my sheet used above for the lining pieces, I just cut random length 4.5" strips, joined the "public" cuff piece and trimmed them to 52" (52" includes 2 half-inch seam allowances. The finished tube will be 51" as noted above.)

6. Next up are the handles. From the strips used to cut the "public" cuff, you should have enough left to squeak out a 7"-7.5" x 2.5" strip. (See photo above.)

7. Fold the long edges toward the center, using the pattern markings as a guide. Apply Steam-A-Seam to each long raw edge and seal your handle closed.

8. Edgestitch along the long edges of the strip. Press the short raw ends under about 3/4"-1". If you're making more than one bin, note your finished handle length and use the same length for all handles if you want them all to match.

9. Pin your handle 5" - 5.5" inches down from the top edge of the front piece, leaving about 1" of "give" in the length so the handle is not flush against the front (see photo below). Stitch folded-under ends down in a square pattern to attach the handle to the front.

10. Using Scotch tape or whatever tape is handy, tape the baggie/plastic centered about 1/2" below the handle. Edgestitch the bottom and sides, as shown below, stitching through the tape. When finished, remove the tape.

Note: You will have to be careful when pressing once this plastic is in place so you may want to save this step for right before you insert the cardboard sides.

11. Press under the top edge of your cuff tube 1/2" and topstitch 3/8" down from the fold to create a finished hem. The short piece is my "public" cuff. The plaid is scrap. Remember, I was assembly-line sewing - the king sheet strips you saw in the above photos were used on other bins.

Set cuff aside for the moment.

12. As per the pattern, mark dots as shown below on the wrong sides of your 4 cover and 4 lining pieces.

13. Sew 2 of the 4 cover pieces right sides together, as shown. Pivot at the side dot and be sure to stop 1/2" from the bottom point on the dot mark. Be careful to not sew over any of the other pieces' points/seam allowances when you are at the point. You can feel them through the fabric, so just move them out of the path of the needle if necessary. It's OK to stop a little short of the point — it won't show. ;-) Also, remember that the points are on the bias and take care not to stretch the bias edges.

14. Repeat so that all 4 cover pieces are joined right sides together. You will end up with a cover that looks like this on the bottom, where the 4 points come together to form an X.

15. Repeat steps 13 & 14 for the 4 lining pieces.

16. Clip up to but NOT INTO the stitching at all corners on both cover and lining. See photo and drawing below. Do not clip the bottom point.

17. Press all seams open. Press the intersections at the point as flat as possible.

18. On the cover only, press the top raw edge under 1/2". Topstitch 3/8" in from the top to close the hem.

19. Back to the cuff tube you set aside earlier. Match the raw edge of the cuff tube to the top raw edge of the lining, right sides together. Center the "public" cuff section, if you have one, across one of the lining panels. You are trying to avoid a seam-to-seam match up at the corners for less bulk when assembling the bin later.

20. Press the joined cuff and lining flat, with the seam allowance pressed toward the lining.

21. This next part is tricky to describe and almost impossible to show intelligible photos through all the steps so follow along carefully and exactly.

a. Turn the cover right side out.

b. Turn the lining wrong side out.

c. Place lining inside the cover so that wrong sides face each other and each piece's side seam allowances are roughly matched up across from each other. (The cuff will extend at the top.)

Be sure to match your "public" cuff lining section with the "public" front face fabric of the cover.

d. Reach in between the cover and lining pieces and pick one pair of seam allowances (1 from the cover, 1 from the lining) and pin them together from the snip at the corner to the hem at the top of the cover. Sew the seam allowances together outside the existing seam in the existing seam allowance. Your new stitching should be 1/16" to 1/8" outside of the previous sideseam stitching.

In the photo below, the blue line is the existing stitching and the red line is the stitching you are doing in this step. Stitch starting about 3/4" below the cover's hem and stitch to the snips in the corner, keeping the seam allowance raw edges aligned and flat.

e. DO NOT pin more than one pair of seam allowances together at a time or you will end up with a twisted bunch of fabric you can't turn. Trust me. It is a lot easier to rearrange the cover and lining between each step of joining them together. So, when you have finished joining one pair of seam allowances, start from step 21(a) above for the next pair. Continue until all four seam allowances are joined and turn everything so the right sides are out on both cover and lining.

22. At this point, your bin cover should resemble this:

23. If you haven't cut your cardboard squares, do that now. I use my 60 mm rotary cutter and it's a breeze! Plus my sons think it sounds pretty cool, and I haven't noticed the cardboard dulling the blade at all.

(Add your plastic label holder now if you deferred this step from above.)

Slide 1 cardboard square into each of the 4 pockets between cover and lining you created in step 21. Go slow — the pockets will be snug and if you force the cardboard, you'll bend it.

24. With 4 cardboard panels in place, your bin is starting to take shape and will resemble this:

25. Fold the cuff over the cardboard edge and cover, to resemble this:

26. Almost there!

Right now, the bottom of your bin is still floppy fabric, like this:

27. If you're industrious and care about unseen details, you can cover the last cardboard square with some fabric and stitching or even glue, but I know no one will ever see the bottom of these bins but me, so I just …

28. … pushed the uncovered square inside as-is.

Start with the square on edge against one side of the bin and then lower it like a drawbridge until it's flat across the bottom.

Ta Dah!

This is the back view of the above bin. You can see how easily they can be turnable-reversible with a different print on each cover panel. These fabrics may not look like scraps, but trust me — they've all been used a lot and are definitely leftovers.

These bins use more "traditional" scraps and old sheets. Really bad cutting on that plaid - no way that side will ever see the light of day again. ;-)

If you use this tutorial to make your own bins, I'd love to see a photo!