I Tried To Finish

All that's left is the hem, which I would've finished yesterday except I'm afraid the invisible zipper is a dud. This is one of the items I made a special trip to Joann's for last weekend, joining the throngs of Halloween shoppers to do so. Of course it went in PERFECTLY first time, including the waistband joining seams lining up exactly next to each other across the zip. Of course. I will probably have to glare at it a week or two before I'm ready to rip out the current zip and replace it. So, I guess technically I finished the Carnival of Skirts challenge even if only one of my two skirts is currently wearable.

There's not much else to say about the skirt. It's black. It has a number of seams. It has pockets. Exciting stuff, eh? But it's the boring makes that usually get the most mileage so I'm OK with a plain black skirt. It also has a decent twirl factor, which I'm also OK with. Here's a close-up of the boring pocket. ;-)

Next up is Simplicty 1849. I seem to be on a Simplicity roll. I finally found a knit to match the burgundy-ish/magenta-ish & white plaid Magic Pencil skirt I made last winter but never wore because it was an orphan. Since I don't have extra of the fabric, I'll be making this one twice. Once to test, and then again in that matching fabric. (And if I like it a lot, maybe even once more as a dress.)

Tonight was pattern cutting night. I seem to have found a second and third wind the last few days. Saturday I dusted/vacuumed/mopped my entire house, including Alex's bathroom. Without going into detail, let's just say Ewwwww! After that, I went to the parts store for a new tail light and to the grocery store. Came home, put food away, and then replaced the tail light. Hung up some pictures. Brushed down the pool. Then yesterday, I detailed my car's interior. I spent THREE HOURS just cleaning and vacuuming. (It was almost as bad as Alex's bathroom. lol) I never did get the exterior washed, but plan to this coming weekend. It's too cold right now to even think about water outside. Although I fear by tomorrow night I will just collapse into a puddle of jelly. ;-)

Anyway, back to tonight's cutting session. I got out my trusty Ottobre TNT Tee. Carolyn has her beloved TNT dress. I have this tee. I've used this pattern as a "sloper" so many times I should be paying Ottobre royalties. Here's the Ottobre front overlaid onto the Simplicity. I cut around the Ottobre armhole, sideseams, and length and stuck to the Simplicity for the neckline. It was a similar set process for the front overlay piece, but there's a bit more "educated guessing" since the overlay has some gathering spread built into the pattern piece. But as many times as I've used this TNT now, it really isn't too hard to just wing it.

This, below, is why my Ottobre fits me so well, and why I use it for 99.99% of the knit tops/dresses I sew. The armhole and shoulder width/ angle are just perfect for me and the Ottobre sleeve goes in like a dream each and every time.

Here's the Ottobre back overlaid onto the Simplicity. I pretty much just cut out the Ottobre, saving nothing from the Simplicity except the shoulder width. No need to reinvent wheels.

Another close-up, this time of the back armhole. That's a big difference.

The Simplicity front is a full piece. I decided I didn't need that and just cut half and will lay it on the fold to cut.

Now I need to go find my tights. It is going to the FORTIES here tonight. Who ordered THAT??

Simplicity 2451 In Progress

So far I'm on track to complete my two-skirt commitment to Faye's Carnival of Skirts. This is skirt #2 (and my belly) where I left it tonight. I still need to attach the waistband/yoke, insert the invisible zipper, and hem it. I forgot the first time I made this pattern (the other view) that I thought the pockets were too shallow and so no adjustment was made for that and they remain too shallow. But they're good enough to clip my office pass card onto and that's really all I want from them in a work skirt.

The fabric is a synethetic something bought from Fabricmart last year and it's nice and drapey, which is great for the twirl factor in this trumpet silhouette.

Tomorrow I'm going to wash and vacuum my car first thing (waaaaaay overdue) and then I'm hoping to finish the skirt with football on the sewing room TV.

If I finish, I'll probably wear it Monday with a new long-sleeve wrap top I bought today ... since our temps have dropped to the chilly 60s. Brrrr. ;-) The hurricane going up the East Coast made it quite windy here today and it actually was feeling like autumn. It's nice for us to have good weather from a hurricane for a change, but I really hope it doesn't turn into what's predicted for my northern friends.

Now it's off to look at the new Vogues since I saw a hint of their being out on Carolyn's blog ...

FNSI

Tomorrow is the next Friday Night Sew-In, sponsored by Handmade by Heidi. I'm in for this month. Can you guess what I'll be working on? Yep, wallets.

I may make one more non-USMC from my pattern but mostly I'm going to whip up a simple "mini billfold"" for Tyler to hold his debit card, ID, and meal card. Marines aren't allowed to have anything bulky in their pockets, so a real wallet is out. When he heard that I was making wallets, he asked if I could make him something flat to hold his cards. No problem! The design in my head is very simple, but to spice things up I'm using a panel from a soft Spiderman lunchbox I bought at Walmart the other night. Tyler loves Spidey. (I don't think I ever showed the Spidey gear shift and visor covers I made for his Jeep from sheets.) He had a great Spiderman wallet from Universal Studios, but he wore holes in it and we've never been able to find a suitable replacement. This little cardholder I have in mind will make him smile.

Click the link above to sign up for FNSI and join in the fun. Random participants are chosen for prizes on Saturday and maybe you'll win! But the real prize is just getting something done.

Parting Shot: This morning's sunrise at MCAS Yuma AZ, with a couple of Harriers ready for take-off.

Friday Night Sew-In

I was a late-comer to the Friday Night Sew-In sign-ups, but I squeaked in. Thanks to Sarah who posted about June's FNSI because I've been meaning to join this sew-along for a while but hadn't managed to get my act together.

I'm happy to say that I actually started and finished TWO Friday Night projects. The first was to cut off the brown jeans I tried on the other day and make 'em capris. I cut off about 6", pressed and topstitched the new hem, and now they'll get worn over the summer until they are too big. Yeah, not exactly a "project," but it did involve sewing.

Next, I made good on my repeated threats to make yet another Hot Patterns Sunshine Top. I've lost count, but I'm definitely over 5 on this pattern. I forget where I picked up this fabric. Does anyone recognize it?

Here it is on Zillie:

And here it is on fuzzy me, paired with my "new" capris.

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A number of you asked about the animation from yesterday's post. I converted the pics to B/W GIFs in my photo-editing program and then ran them through an old little program I have that will take a bunch of GIF files in the order I select and make a GIF animation file. I'm pretty sure there are similar freebie programs and/or websites out on the Interwebs if you want to make your own, just search on "GIF Animation."

Distracted (Again)

So there I was, plugging away on sewing back together all the little squares I cut apart for the placements, when an idea popped into my head. Maybe piecing isn't so mindless after all?

What was the idea? I'm glad you asked. Does this pic give you a hint?

Now imagine it in official USMC camouflage fabric, with embroidered name tapes. Yep, I'm making a Marine Mom purse. A little hokey, yes, but kind of fun too.

I spent way too much time yesterday looking at downloadable purse patterns on Etsy before I decided I should just try my hand at my own pattern, save the purchase money, and end up with exactly what I wanted. I worked up a pattern after dinner and what you're seeing in the pic is my first muslin. I need to enlarge the bag a little so the pockets will fit better on a sharper angle. Real USMC cammie blouse pockets are set on that same angle. Why? I don't know. Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

I found some official fabric and I'm going to ask my son's recruiter next week if I can borrow one of his cammie blouses for a few days so I can measure things and note details. He doesn't wear cammies in his recruiter job, and I think he owes me for taking my son away, don't you? ;-)

After I make the pattern adjustments and another muslin, I'll return to the placemats either this afternoon or tomorrow. For now, they've been shifted to the ironing board awaiting their turn. Poor little squares.

In MPB Men's Shirt Sew-Along news, and I think the final chapter in this saga, here is Michael in his new shirt. You can read more details on his blog, here. He's happy. I'm happy. Life is good. And aren't these great photos? (Thanks Peter!)

Just One Star

On Monday, I came across this "Just One Star" post on Rachel Griffith's P.S. I Quilt blog. I *immediately* recognized the ring in the photo because my Marine son has one just like it, from Parris Island for boot camp graduation. So, of course, I read on — and learned about the Moda challenge in connection with the Semper Fi Fund. I decided then and there that today, March 16th, my Marine son's 22nd birthday and his first that we're apart (sob!), I would spend some time in his honor making a block (or two) to send in for the project. I'm happy to say that I accomplished that goal. Happy Birthday Tyler, I miss you!

If you'd like to make a block for the Just One Star challenge, the fabric requirements, block directions and mailing info are in the PDF here. Don't forget to sign your block(s) before mailing!

In other quilting news, I'm making progress on the placemats. Everything has been cut out and now I'm piecing the squares together and attaching them to the placemat middles. With my Featherweight on my cutting table, I can face the TV and piece at the same time, which seems to make it all go faster. It's very relaxing. I do have to get up every once in a while to press seam allowances, but the movement is a good thing or else I'd just spread even wider. ;-)

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By the way, if you've been frustrated by Blogger's handling of uploading photos, I'm happy to report that improvements have finally been made. First, photos are again uploading in the order you select them. And, you can now plant your cursor where you want a photo, upload it, and it will land there instead of at the top of the post. Yay Blogger! Ahem … it's about time. ;-)

MPB Shirt Sew-Along — Finis!

Only 13 days late finishing for the February Sew-Along, but who's counting — it's done. Yay! Hopefully, Michael will send me a modeled pic or two once he's got his new shirt in hand (or on body?) since my hanger shots are dismal.

The fabric is really nice. I think Michael picked a winner in terms of color and weave. It's 100% cotton and a good shirting weight. Wrinkling during sewing and handling was minimal, so it should wear very nicely.

Here's the back view. I moved the back waist darts a little more toward center, after confirmation from Peter. I also deepened them a little since Michael is very slim in his lower torso.

Here's a view of a sleeve placket. I promise, it lays flat even though this pic indicates otherwise. You can see the buttons better in this shot too. They are purple-y brown with a pearl finish. I like the purple tint as a subtle accent. I hope Michael does too.

Michael wanted the finished length about 1" shorter than the unhemmed muslin, so I cut off 1/2" and then turned up a double 1/4"-ish hem. It's probably closer to 3/8" if we were to get out a ruler.

I had an extra button, so I sewed it to the inside button band. Hopefully, it won't be needed but it's there in case. That was the only button I sewed by hand. The others were attached with my machine. Yay button-sewing foot!

For a bit of personalization and fun, I used the lettering on my machine to create a "label." You can't see it clearly in this pic, but it reads: HANKO • NYC • 2011.

I'm going to toss the shirt into the wash today to remove markings and glue stick, and then it will be in the mail tomorrow. Julia asked yesterday what kind of glue I use. For this, just a regular washable glue stick from Office Depot. (Let it dry before sewing so you don't gum up the needle. Pressing with dry iron speeds that process.) On other projects I also use Glue Pins, which is a clear washable more liquid-y glue, and/or Collins Wonder Tape. They all have a spot in my notions arsenal and are so much easier to sew over than pins. ;-)

Now I'm off to tidy up the sewing room and decide what's up next. I'm feeling a little quilty, so don't be surprised if I head in that direction for a couple of weeks.

MPB Shirt Sew-Along — Almost There

Michael's shirt is nearly done. I only have the hem, buttonholes and buttons to do and I will get those done after I finish this post. But I had to take this break to say:

I HATE flat-felled seams!

OK, maybe "hate" is a little strong. But they bug me. A lot.

They are so fiddly to do neatly. Sure, they get better with practice (and a glue stick), as shown in my examples below. The first photo shows my squiggly seam allowance on the wrong side of the sleeve head. I *know* it will never be seen (after Peter is done inspecting my sewing, which BTW, because I'm sewing for someone else is not nearly as straight as my usual output. Figures, right?), but it still bugs me.

This is the other sleeve head, after I arbitrarily decided learned from practicing to trim a little extra from the seam allowance that is folded over. Not perfect, but much nicer. I can only imagine that if this shirt had three or four sleeves, I'd be close to perfection. ;-)

But since this particular seam is in a location that will never be seen when the shirt is worn, why bother with flat felling it? It's one thing if you have a factory with machines dedicated to flat-felling men's shirt seams, but in a home-sewing environment, serging the armhole seams and topstitching is just as good as spending all that time trimming, pressing, and wrestling seam allowances that will never be seen. And it's just as sturdy too. I mean, women have been wearing serged armholes for years now, right? ;-)

Yeah, yeah. I know there are one or two good reasons for flat-felled seams (especially the seam on a long sleeve that might be rolled up), but I'm venting so I'm not feeling generous toward those reasons right now. And the venting felt so good. :-)

Now Michael, if your missing internet has miraculously shown up again and you're reading this, don't fret. I'm still enjoying the whole process of making this shirt. Even those fussy flat-felled seams, because I learned something new.

MPB Shirt Sew-Along Progress

The check pattern is probably going to wreak havoc with Blogger's resized photo previews, so if you're feeling dizzy, click on the photos to see them at actual size.

It's coming along nicely. The collar isn't really sewn on yet, though. Just a little preview to make the pic look better. ;-)

The sleeve plackets went on without a hitch, using the Nancy Zieman Express method mentioned in previous posts, which was like the RTW placket I deconstructed. I had contemplated cutting these on the bias, but decided it would be too squiggly to do without interfacing and too bulky with. They don't line up perfectly, but they're pretty darn close. Who looks at plackets anyway when a shirt is being worn?

I did cut the front placket on the bias and I think it looks good. I also pulled out the button stash last night to see if I had anything suitable for this shirt and was pleasantly surprised to find enough quantity of a good color and size. I think Michael will like them because they're a tiny notch above plain but not really flashy either.

Here's a close-up of the collar pinned in place. Tonight, I hope to get it and the stand sewn on for real.

MPB Shirt STILL Sewing-Along

While it seems our official tour guide for the MPB Men's Shirt Sew-Along went on vacation with a bunch of Ken dolls, some of us are still sewing our men's shirt projects, with or without him. Me included. So what if February is over. Yesterday, I was finally able to cut out Michael's shirt from the good fabric.

But let me back up just a second. The yellow muslin arrived in NYC the week before last. Peter pressed it, and Michael modeled. Peter and Michael think it fits well. I agree, except for …

… the back waist darts.

I think the darts are too close to the sideseams and should be moved a little more toward the center of Michael's back. And maybe deepened a hair. Peter and Michael are having a fit another fitting evaluation today and will let me know.

In the meantime, since dart placement can wait until the end, I went ahead and cut the shirt. I am cheating with plaid/check matching by using bias accents to avoid the matching altogether. This means a little extra stabilization was needed for all that bias, so I used a very light fusible on both sides of the cuffs and collar stand, interfaced the entire front button placket, and cut the inside yoke on the straight grain to stabilize the public view outside bias yoke. As I'm typing this, I just realized I forgot the sleeve plackets. Oops.

I also went back to my copy of Nancy Zieman's Sewing Express and used her Express Collar technique. The collar is now one piece, shown at the bottom of the photo below. Odd looking, isn't it?

(Don't bother clicking the above photo because it will still be blurry. My camera battery died an ugly death just as I snapped that.)

With the Express Collar technique, the seams (and thus bulk) at the points of the collar are eliminated and the undercollar is automatically on the bias with a seam in the middle. I reversed the layout, though, since I wanted the upper collar to be bias. All it meant was to lay the pattern piece 45 degrees different than the instructions. I also interfaced the whole thing, since I was using lightweight interfacing.

Next will be to actually start sewing, which I hope to do tonight.

More on Plackets, and What's Up Next

According to the USPS tracking site, Michael's muslin is being delivered today. Hopefully, he and Peter will take some pics over the weekend so we can approve the fit and I can start on the final shirt. Since Peter has already made this pattern for Michael, I'm anticipating that there won't be any issues. Fingers crossed.

Until then, I've continued deconstructing my husband's RTW shirt. Tanit-Isis left a comment on my last post asking for an inside view of the RTW placket before I ripped it apart. No problemo. ;-)

To refresh, this is the finished RTW placket from the outside, public view:

And here is what it looks like on the reverse:

The placket piece itself is 2-1/2" wide and the finished width is a hair under 1".

As you can see below, the slash for the placket is trimmed down to 1/4" seam allowances. This construction method actually differs from Sommerset's method that I linked to last post, and is instead …

… the method shown in Nancy Zieman's Sewing Express. This book comes from my mom's sewing library, but she gave it to me 8-9 years ago when I first picked up sewing as an obsession instead of a chore.

If you click on the pic below, it should open full-size. (BTW, I recommend this book for other timesavers too. It's got a lot of good tips. Not sure why mom gave it away, but I'm not complaining.)

Over the weekend, I'm hoping to get the pattern adjusted for this new-ish Butterick pattern, and maybe even get a fast muslin done. But I also have some work and household errands, so we'll see where I end up.

One Ugly Muslin To Go, Hold the Mayo

The muslin is done and on its way to The Big Apple

Complete with red and pink thread, one inside-out sleeve and placket sans cuff, and …

… one single-layer pinked cuff.

With all of those faults, this is still actually somewhat nicer than my usual muslins. Don't faint when you try it on Michael. The final shirt will be bee-you-tee-full. ;-)

An interesting side note:  I took apart one of the sleeve plackets on my husband's discarded RTW shirt. This is what it looks like before surgery.

And this is after.

Hopefully you can see that there are no stupid "Little House on the Placket" pieces here,

and instead it's just like Summerset's wonderful tutorial. Although the finished RTW placket is somewhat wider, which is easy enough to adjust if desired. I'm going to use the RTW method any time I have to do a regular sleeve placket. It's just so much faster, easier and absolutely NOT fiddly at all. A total no-brainer, if you ask me.