Saturday, September 20, 2014

Jalie Cardi Hacking



You may already know but there's a new indie pattern company, Muse, and their first release is the really cute Jenna cardigan. If I had extra money right now (no, didn't get that job), I'd have bought the pattern. But since I didn't and, darn it I wasn't a tester (hint, hint), I had to settle for using it as inspiration. So I dug out my TNT Jalie 2566 twinset pattern and proceeded to hack away.


The hacking was pretty easy actually. I chopped off about 9" from the length and then added a 3" band at the hem and a 2" band at the sleeves. Both bands are folded, so the cutting width was actually 6-1/2" and 4-1/2", including seam allowances. The Jalie is also a vee neck with a continuous neck/button band vs. the Jenna's jewel neckline and separate neck and button bands. I left mine as is, since I prefer the vee over a jewel neck anyway.

I was really second-guessing cutting off all that length since such a short side seam looked almost comical to me, but the fabric is a cheap stashed sweater knit and I had enough to try again it if the hacking was a disaster. It wasn't. :-) The finished cardi could even be an inch shorter and still be all right.

What I didn't have extra of is interfacing. Even if I have to keep sewing from stash until that real job materializes, I'm going to have to break down and order some more interfacing since I'm seriously running out and nothing available local is even close to being suitable. (Will work for interfacing. hehehe) Having to be extra frugal these days, I did some creative piecing for the front bands.


Interfacing definitely was not optional for this squishy sweater knit since I had to put in 6 tiny buttonholes on a very narrow band. I am not exaggerating when I say I was holding my breath during each one, just waiting for my machine's auto buttonholer to screw up. Luckily, they all came out perfectly. And mostly spaced evenly.


Since the budget is also not allowing extraneous thread purchases, I went with what I have for the serger. I used overlocker grays in the needles to blend and regular turquoise in the loopers so the loops wouldn't contrast when the cardi flips open. The knit is actually much more aqua than the baby blue it appears to be in the top photo so these threads were a pretty good match.


Inside view - good blending job, right? I'm happy with it.


The buttons are Mother of Pearl from the Carolyn Norman collection. ;-) Mother of Pearl naturally has some teal-ish iridescence and goes nicely with this knit. Too bad the photo lies, but trust me ... they look really nice. And they're tiny so fit perfectly on the narrow band.


Lots of topstitching around the hem and sleeve bands and around the button/neck band.


I had just enough thread on this spool. Whew!


I'll probably wear it open, like this, but for the main photo it looked nicer buttoned up.


The blouse is a SBCC Mimosa made last year. I also made the skirt but I can't talk about that yet. ;-) The cardi is a perfect match for it and now I have a new outfit for Monday. It's still hot outside here and will be for a long while yet, but inside A/C is always chilly so layers are a must.

Even though my Jalie/Jenna hack is a successful knock-off and I can hack further for Jenna's gathered shoulder yoke view, I would still like to buy (or win) the actual pattern at some point because I think it's so cute and the sewing nerd in me wants to see the original. What can I say? I read patterns like others read magazines. ;-)

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Testing 1 2 3

This will be quick cuz (1) trying out mobile posting and (2) doing this on my phone ... blech.

Just wanted to say thank you for all the good thoughts and finger crossing yesterday. It went very well and I will know yay or nay by Friday. If you see a post soon about fabric or shoe purchasing, you'll know it was a yay. ;-)

Saturday, August 23, 2014

Random Thoughts

I haven't posted a list of Random Thoughts in a while and since I don't have any gorgeous (or even not-gorgeous) finished photos to share ... here we go ...

1. I tried on the dress this morning.
2. Not happy.
3. Yet.
4. BTW, I didn't mean last post that I don't try on at all during the process, only that I don't do the final try-on before hems until I'm sure I'm OK with any result.
5. Sometimes I just don't want to wreck a sewing session with a less-than-stellar result.
6. And sometimes it's not the garment, but my frame of mind/mirror which could wreck it.
7. I found my camera charger cord.
8. Can I get an A-MEN!!
9. It looks amazingly like a really old phone charger, which I kept out when packing/moving by mistake instead of the correct charger.
10. Now you know why I don't throw away the wrong one.
11. Too afraid the wrong one will be the right one, or vice versa, on trash day.
12. Have you SEEN Peter's and Michael's new swimsuits?
13. Go back one post too, to see more of Peter's cute tushie ... er ... first new suit.
14. I've been asked to be an "indie" pattern tester.
15. I will, as usual, give my honest opinion when the process is over, and am looking forward to seeing how it goes from this "side."
16. So far, the pattern looks promising and something I'd pick for myself.
17. And that's all I can say for now.
18. A personal request: Cross your fingers for me at 2 PM on Tuesday.
19. Football season is almost here.
20. I actually kinda got into the World Cup after I had some tutoring from a current co-worker, but ...
21. It ain't the NFL. ;-)
22. We can actually hear the Bucs' cannon from where I'm living now.
23. Too bad I'm not really a Bucs fan.
24. Exactly how much crack have the Project Runway judges been smokin' this season?
25. Still enjoying the show, though.
26. I still have fabric all over the house.
27. I really want it to be organized.
28. But first I need to buy a new shelf or something and I don't have the funds yet.
29. See #18.





Monday, August 18, 2014

McCall's 6752 In Progress

I did turn on the lights and machines in the sewing room yesterday, and got to work on McCall's 6752. I cut out the pattern and fabric and sewed the bodice. And that's where I ended since Alex and I took the dogs to the beach. We both really enjoy taking them there. It's close and free, and the dogs love it. Chili now knows where we're heading as soon as he sees the towels come out. He's so darn smart, that dog.


Tonight after dinner, I had some reserve energy (how did THAT happen?) and got back to the dress. Now all that's left are the hems.

I made View B, the one shown in the red print on the envelope. Lots of sewers in blogland have also made this view and I've liked them all, so it was time to be a sheep. :-) 


The only real alteration I made was to add 4 inches to the bottom of the skirt. All reviews (and my own eyes) said the skirt was SHORT. I cut the size 16 for the neck/shoulders and morphed to the 22 by the waist/hips, since laying my TNT Magic Pencil over the skirt told me that was the best size to use. I also added additional length to the cowl facing to help prevent inside-out-ness, especially since this ITY knit slips and curls almost on its own. I may yet still add a little weight to the facing to keep it in place.


I haven't tried it on yet, and I'm a little worried that it may be more revealing than I'm comfortable with. If so, I'll have to don a cami for an underlayer.

Does anyone else do this .... get the whole thing nearly finished and then don't try it on? I'm telling myself it's because I'm choosing to end the day's sewing session on a good note. In reality, it's because I don't want to possibly ruin my night by finding out it doesn't fit. Yep, I'm a chicken.

Saturday, August 9, 2014

KS 4026 aka My Broke Woman's Myrtle


Here's the finished dress. I'm not in the love with the fabric, so that has a bearing on my feelings for the dress. It's just a crappy thin rayon knit that feels like a nightgown. I would like the dress much better in an ITY. The print is cool, which is why I bought the fabric to begin with. But it's definitely a low-quality knit and nothing will change that. I expect I'll make it again whenever I can afford to buy some new fabric because I do actually like the style of the dress on me, if not the fabric.

I hinted in a previous post at showing how I used my TNT tee for sizing this dress. I thought I took more pics, but hmmm. Guess not. I'll go over the ones I did manage to take, though. And since my camera battery is dying and I have NO IDEA where the cord is, I suspect it's going to be a while before I post with photos again. :-( I know I'm whining, but I'm really, REALLY tired of being broke because if I wasn't, I'd have a new camera by now. And better fabric choices. Definitely better fabric choices.

So, here we go ... I placed my TNT back piece over the KS back pattern piece. My goal here and on the front bodice piece was to get the widths right for me but to also keep in mind matching up to the KS waist width where it matched closest because the skirt would need to be attached at that seam and I didn't want extra, or worse, too little, at the matching seam. I also wanted to use my TNT armhole since KS armholes are notoriously low, especially on me.


Here's the tracing. It's basically a S at the neck/shoulder/upper chest and then moving to M/L through bust level and then down to the waist seam.


This is where I thought I had more pics. I had already created a drape front from my TNT so I used that piece to gauge the sizing for the KS. You can kinda sorta see the edge of TNT drape front at the right of this photo. The final tracing follows the same sizing variations as the back ... S up top, gradually to a M/L by the waist. The bottom length is longer than the KS pattern only because I knew I was adding a wide casing for the waist elastic (which is what Myrtle-izes this) and there was enough tissue below the bodice to just do it in one pass. For the back, I had to tape on extra.


I knew I'd never use armhole facings even if I decide later to make a sleeveless version so I just traced my TNT sleeve on that part of pattern tissue so I'd have a copy of the sleeve with this dress and not have to dig out the original.


Here are the finished front and back bodice pieces, where you can see the elastic casing taped onto the back piece and just cut onto the front. I added the width of the elastic (1-3/8" I think without looking). And that's it. Since I ended the waist at the actual KS L waist width, I used the L skirt pieces without alteration.


Also, I find most pattern drape fronts to be on the short side, which makes the cowl more fiddly. I added 1-1/2" to the drape section as I was cutting. I had no problems when wearing this dress with the cowl flipping outward or anything so this was enough extra for me. I know the Myrtle has a "self-lined" front, which is really just the whole front doubled and then folded where the drape edge would be if it wasn't "self-lined." I thought about doing this, but decided it would be too hot and the fabric would stick to itself and not lay nicely. And since I added the sleeves, I didn't need to worry about finishing armhole edges with anything other than my serger.


And one last shot. Maybe one day, I'll venture outside for some better pics and a different pose. Well, if I ever find the camera cord or can afford a new one. :-( (I hope I'm not sounding too whiney. I *am* appreciative of having an income, just impatient for the new permanent job and salary to happen already.)

Thursday, July 31, 2014

It's Crappy Photo Time

(Sung to Howdy Doody tune ... and even I'm not THAT old!)


It was too dark in the house to take pics but I did it anyway and the result is less than stellar. But I promised pics of this dress and since I actually wore it to work today, here's my promise fulfilled. On top of bad light, etc., the print/pattern is really wreaking havoc with the autofocus, like wearing stripes on TV. All in all, a less than great photographic result (see blog title above), but better than nothing I suppose.


I do like the dress shape (except for Bustle Butt) and will consider this my wearable (cough:cough) muslin. I can see me making this again at some point, but maybe without all the mistakes? ;-) Not sure why there's a white stripe across my butt, maybe a flash phantom? And I thought Bustle Butt was bad enough!


To cover the Bustle Butt, I threw on the coral cardi. I think I'm channeling Halloween now. Even though the fabric was a bee-yotch to cut and sew, it's very comfortable to wear. I like the dress as long as I'm not looking at my rear end in a mirror. And, considering I'm usually sitting at a desk, everyone else is mostly spared that sight too.

I haven't gotten back to my Broke Myrtle yet (I probably shouldn't call it that and apologize to Colette), but the weekend is coming and since Alex is away, I don't have any responsibilities except to sew. And walk dogs. :-)

Sunday, July 27, 2014

The Broke Woman's Myrtle - In Progress

I don't have $14-18 to shell out for patterns at the moment but I was kind of interested in Colette Patterns' newest, Myrtle. So I had a look through the sale pattern catalogs at Hancock's last weekend, thinking I could find something close, since Myrtle is a pretty basic style.


And, voila! Plus sleeves (which, unfortunately, are missing from the Colette version).


Pretty close match, eh? Just goes to show there's really nothing new under the sun.

This one's not done yet. I still have to hem the sleeves and since it's a crappy thin rayon knit, I need to let it sit/stretch on Zillie for a couple of days before I hem the bottom.

Hopefully, I'll get back to the dress mid-week and have some pics before next weekend, both of the dress on me and how I used my Otto TNT tee to make sure the KS would fit.

Sunday, July 20, 2014

I Made the Dress, But I Didn't Make It Work


The dress is done, so there's that. But bad fabric cutting and extra fullness (mine and the dress') killed it. I will show it on me at some point but Sundays here are not the days I want to model for the camera. Trust me, you don't want that either.

So, before I come clean with the ugliness, let's explore some other points.

The morph of the two patterns (S2281 and S4122) worked out well and I may even revisit it in the future. After the pain has left my memory. The part I don't like isn't from the morph, but from S2281 alone, but more on that in a bit. I like the open, wide-yoked neckline much better than the original S2281 design. High necklines and me don't get along. I didn't want to lose the pleated raglan sleeves from S2281 but I also wasn't willing to put even more time into re/creating them for this morph. Maybe another time.

This is the inside view. I ditched the waistband "facing" cuz ... well ... fiddly poly fabric and unmotivation (Now a word. You're welcome.). I did interface it and with that, it's more than stable enough. The yoke is faced, and interfaced.



I edgestitched the yoke ...


... and the waistband, and all my seams lined up great so yay for an accurate morph.



Here's where it starts to get ugly ...


Good lord ... was I drunk when cutting that fabric? Let this illustrate how cutting single layer can be a project saver. And, more importantly, how not can be a project killer.

I admit I'm usually an eyeballer ... that is, I lay out my pattern pieces and align by eye and not by ruler. This is NOT because I don't know the importance of accurate grain. It's because I have excellent spatial skills. Not a brag ... it just is. (On the other hand, I can't carry a tune in a bucket.) And because of those spatial skills, most of the time I'm spot on. Except when I'm not. As you can see below. To be fair, this looks a lot worse in a still photo with the waistband hung up on some dressform phantom than it does in real life. But even then, she ain't purty. And I have no excuse except that I'm human and not everything that comes out of my sewing room is rainbows and unicorns. ;-)


And to add insult to crooked injury ... look at that first photo again (below for convenience) ... I inadvertently lined up the bodice and waistband pieces so perfectly that YOU CAN'T EVEN SEE THE WAISTBAND. Hahahaha ... if you can't laugh, you'll scream. :-)


But even if I had perfectly cut fabric, I'd still hate the result. Because of the bustle butt. Yes, Bustle Butt. I'm trademarking that one. Why did I think I'd want (or need) gathers across my backside? Again I ask, was I drunk? If my front was as flat as Zillie's, it might even be passable. But my tummy is anything but flat and my actual side view in this dress is ...well ... let's just politely say thick and leave it at that.


About the only good thing with the result is ... remember that side invisible zipper I was dreading? Well, it turned out perfectly ...


... because I didn't need it! I sewed one sideseam for real and basted the other to see if I really needed a zip. And I didn't. Whew. Dodged that bullet.

IF I wear this dress for real, it will be with an overlayer to cover the Bustle Butt (tm). And that atrocious fabric cutting.

At least this Doomed Project From Hell is done and I can move on to something, ANYTHING, else. :-)

Have a great week!

Saturday, July 12, 2014

Trying to turn "What Was I Thinking" into a "Make It Work" moment

So, I recently went to Joann's to pick up some thread with a 50% off thread coupon. Or so I thought.

Joann's is NOT a short trip for me anymore, having moved out of the 'burbs and into Tampa proper. Upon my arrival, I headed straight to the thread racks with my empty spools in tow so I could replace by color code. I just toss my empties into a Ziplock so I don't have to keep track of make a list.

After about 15 minutes, when I was done choosing my threads (about 12 spools), I wandered over to the pattern area and was happy to see a big "$2.99" sale sticker on the Simplicity drawers. I proceeded to spend another 30-40 minutes browsing the catalog and drawers and narrowing my choices down to just two Simplicity patterns. I'm broke these days so even this felt like a splurge. Giving myself a $30 limit in the store to include my pattern and thread and whatever else, I next browsed the fabrics and found some for the dress pattern I had in hand. Plus two others from clearance. I figured I needed a pick-me-up new dress and I had a long weekend for adjustments and sewing.

Can you guess where this is going?

I waited in the crowded checkout line and, finally, it was my turn. I dutifully handed over my thread coupon and my fabric coupon. And then had a mild heart attack when the total was well over $70. Apparently, my thread coupon started the NEXT day ... AND ... Simplicity patterns weren't on sale. It was a stupid (small print) New Look sale sticker on the Simplicity drawers. But by now, I really wanted to make the new dress since I had already invested time and mental sewing. So, I handed back most of thread ... some I couldn't do without, sale or no ... and one of the Simplicity patterns, and used my 40% coupon for the other, 2281. I've never paid so much for a Simplicity pattern in my life ($10-ish!!). And I still busted my budget.

Can you guess where this is going?

I've decided I really don't even like the pattern for me. I was set to make the view shown in red and with the waistband contrast. I was so intent on fabric selection and since in my mind the pattern would only be $2.99 "wasted," I totally missed how high the neckline is. Ugh.


But since I had already bought the damn thing at the high price -- and the fabric -- I decided I could make my adjustments and then just wing it for cutting down the neckline. Which I started to do ... even taking pics along the way to detail my adjustments here on the blog (see below). Except I still wasn't feeling it.



And so it sat for most of last weekend. Until I was sitting on my bed and noticed the shirt I had recently worn still hanging on my "closet annex"...


Simplicity 4122. A past TNT that I've made many times, after adjusting the yoke to be more scooped.


So, the rest of my "sewing" time last weekend was spent thinking about and then actually morphing a tracing of parts of S4122 into S2281. And here's where I am so far today.


We'll see. Part of me just wants to dump the project and move on to a quick palate cleanser, especially since I'm decidedly NOT looking forward to a side insertion invisible zipper.

Thursday, July 3, 2014

Re-Make Modeled


Above is how I wore the outfit to the office this week. It's way too cold in A/C to go without a second layer. Plus, farmer's tan. ;-)

Here's the before (right) and after (left). It's not hugely dramatic but there's enough difference to see less sack and more shape.


I left the pleats at the center front of the skirt but it's hard to see them in the pic. Whatevs. They're there. And my tummy thanks me for that.


This shows the back, with the new empire seam, already serged, and the new sideseam sewn pre-serging.Yes, I was lazy and sewed it all the way down through the finished hem. And, of course, this would be the week that Carolyn posts about slow sewing and nice interiors. Hah. This ain't no couture dress. Never was. Never will be. But it's being worn, and no one but us is going to see the inside anyway, so I count that as a win.


There will be slower sewing this weekend because I think I'm going to be fitting a new dress pattern, for a woven. Good thing I have 3 days to procrastinate and over-analyze.

Happy Fourth!

Sunday, June 29, 2014

A Couple of Round Tuits


The cardi make and the dress re-make have been on my To Do list forEVER. I made the dress 3-4 years ago and shortly after it became too big. Since I love the print and colors, I've wanted to re-do it. I've also wanted a lightweight short-sleeved brown cascade cardi for far too long. I need the extra layer in an air-conditioned office and brown goes with so much in my wardrobe (and matches this dress too, actually, although the colors are off in the photo).

I'm happy to report that both items are now in my current wardrobe.

The cardi is a quick sew, using Simplicity 1945, which I had used once before for a beige winter version. I had it cut out last weekend but needed to get some more dark brown thread before I could sew it. Both of which I did yesterday. There's no pattern indication for short sleeves so I just eyeballed it and folded up the pattern pieces evenly so all the seams would match.


The dress re-make was a little more convoluted, especially since I also wanted to shorten it about 4 inches but without losing any of the brown "stripe" at the bottom, which meant taking the length from the waist, which meant ripping apart almost the whole dang dress. I cheated and cut the seams apart. I was making it smaller anyway, so losing seam allowances wasn't a big deal. But since this knit is kind of spring-y with a mind of its own, I had to cut very slowly to keep things even or else I would've ended up with very jagged cuts.

The original make had a front empire seam but no matching horizontal back seam. It does now, because I had to remove the unwanted length that way. Along with shortening the length about 4", I removed about 10-12" in circumference, split across the sideseams.

I took a before pic but haven't taken the after yet, since it's lazy Sunday and I'm not camera-ready. I'll do that when I wear it and show you the difference.

Saturday, June 28, 2014

A Selfish Plea



I'm doing most of my blog reading these days on my (Android) phone, with Bloglovin'. It has a great little app just for that. So, my selfish plea is that if you haven't already "claimed" your blog on Bloglovin', please do and then add a button to your blog so I can add it to my read feed and keep up with what you're doing.


I hope to squeeze in some sewing this weekend ... stay tuned.

Saturday, June 21, 2014

Uptown, Downtown Done. (And the Giveaway winner.)

Here's the finished Uptown/Downtown dressed down for casual wear. I walked the dogs in it tonight! The knit is very drapey rayon/Lycra from Fabric.com a couple of years ago. I know lots of you also bought this and other prints when they showed up at Fabric.com and Fabricmart. I think I still have one or two left. It's not a great quality and thinner than I prefer but it will make a very comfortable one- or two-season summer dress.


I'll wear it with this knit cardi and heels at the office. The cardi got a slight makeover this afternoon after I finished the dress and while I still had the coral thread in the machines. It was too big and putting off a frumpy vibe, even for such a vibrant color. I hacked 1-1/2" from the sleeves and resewed the sideseams smaller and shapelier. I've been wanting to do this for over two years. Sheesh. Why do these simple fixes always get put off for so long?


Back to the dress, I ended up removing 1-1/2" from the bodice length and since I used a 5/8" seam allowance instead of the pattern's 3/8" allowance when sewing the waist seam, I effectively used (and should have cut) the medium bodice length, as shown by the pink line below. As I found out, the longest length is REALLY long on the finished dress -- even if it doesn't look like it from the pattern.


Other alterations/changes ... I've finally learned to go smaller than I usually first think with HPs for the shoulders/chest area and for this dress I cut the neckline at 12, the shoulders and upper torso (and sleeves) at 14, and blended to 16 at the waist seam and below.

I also lowered the neckline another 1-1/2" for more of a scoop and pegged the skirt using my TNT Magic Pencil as my template. Because I knew I wasn't going to use the hem band, I also lengthened the skirt 1-1/2" which gave me a nice wide hem allowance.

As I mentioned last post, the dress pieces go together like a dream. And the instructions are good too, not that I really needed them for this easy dress ... but I always like to read pattern instructions so I can report on them. This is a good pattern for beginners and, well, anyone. And with so many sizes, it's also good for lots of bodies. As usual for me with HP, no FBA done or needed.

I did deviate from the instructions for the waist elastic. I never sew a joining seam such as this at the same time as applying the elastic. Too fiddly. ;-) Instead, I sewed with a 5/8" seam allowance (1 below), then used a narrow ZZ to sew the seam allowances together close to the raw edge (2 below), leaving an opening to insert the elastic. After the elastic is inserted, sized, and adjusted evenly inside the "casing," I use a 3-step ZZ (3 below) while stretching the elastic and fabric flat, which holds the elastic in place and prevents it from twisting.


The neckband is just a straight band, which works OK even for my more scooped neckline, but I think a shaped neckband (a la the Sunshine top) would be better. Next time, I will try a morph.


The sleeves are also finished with straight bands, which adds a little more somethin' somethin' than just a hem.The bands work well here and I like the look.


Now for the Giveaway announcement ... I asked Alex to pick a number and he chose 17, which is "L".


L, please send your info to me at dcook100 at gmail dot com and the Primavera pattern will be on its way to you.