Thursday, March 1, 2001

Alterations: Full Bust Adjustment with Raglan Sleeves

(Also how to rotate bust dart OUT at sideseam)


Size Medium traced, then slashed (in red) and spread using the Fit For Real People method for non-darted bodices.


After FBA is complete, trace the sideseam onto new tissue below.


Close the horizontal bust dart by rotating pattern, while over sideseam tracing on under layer.


New adjusted pattern is shown in red. Horizontal bust dart has been moved to the side seam and excess dart uptake is cut off.


Final pattern as retraced, with markings, etc. The "bump out" at the bust area sideseam will be eased to the back piece. I also curved up the bottom hem area a bit to compensate for the added length from the FBA.

7 comments:

  1. I had read about this adjustment before. I could never understand the instructions once I got past the step of closing the side dart...until I read your article. A thousand Thank You's for taking the time to write down and share what you learn.

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  2. Thankyou very much, I will reverse these instructions to make a Small bust adjustment on a "raglan sleeved dress with no darts" pattern. Much appreciated.

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  3. I'm feeling dumb, but I just don't get the last bit, where you have rotated the dart?
    The side seam seems the same to me after you rotate. Where does the excess go to?

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    Replies
    1. flowerpress - it's not a huge difference but if you were to overlay both the before and after pattern pieces, you'd see there IS a difference in length over the bust and width across the waist.

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  4. Hi Debbie, this seems perfect except that I cannot see the pictures. Not sure if this is a problem with me or the page... I have a raglan sleeve FBA emergency :) can you help? Thanks! Nicky

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    Replies
    1. Nicky, not sure if you'll see this but I just fixed the pics for this.

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    2. That's great! Thank you very much for helping so quickly.

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