CJ Patterns #426 Princess Wrap - As a 2-Piece Dress

The CJ Princess Wrap top is done, along with a modified Magic Pencil skirt to make a 2-piece "dress." I don't have any FBA instructions or pics for the top since I didn't need/make one. In fact, the only alterations I made were (1) square shoulders and (2) adding about 2" of length at the hemline. Style changes were binding the neckline with a binder on my CS machine instead of turning under and topstitching per the instructions, and to lengthen the short sleeve to 3/4 length. There is a long sleeve pattern piece, but since the short sleeve was already cut, I just used it and cut the fabric longer. (More on the pattern and sizing below.)

In the pics above and below, you can better see the gathered wrap and the bound neckline.

The Magic Pencil skirt was modified to a flippy-er and more A-line shape per a Neue Mode pattern made earlier (I'm too lazy to link to that post right now ... maybe later) and incorporating modest side slits.

CJ's sizing is different from other patterns, since she sizes for UNwashed natural fiber knits and expects some shrinkage. I don't particularly like this, especially since I was using a non-shrinking poly knit (a matte jersey from Fabric.com bought a couple of years ago), but CJ does include lots of sizing information on the instruction sheets which makes it easier to pick a starting size based on your ease preferences and fabric choice. If you're unsure, take the time to make a "down and dirty" knit muslin ... or at least don't use your best fabric the first time. For me, I had already made this top (altered bigger beyond the pattern back then) and still actually have it so I could try it on for a better idea of my current size. Plus, I have a lot more fitting experience since I first bought the pattern and a TNT tee pattern to compare with. Both of those, plus the excellent sizing tips included in the instructions, certainly eliminated any outright guessing.

Below, is the hint sheet for what to do when you're between sizes.

And this is a close-up of the finished garment measurements sheet. Since the *finished* bust measurements of the size LG are just about my true full bust measurement and I knew I didn't want extreme negative ease in this top, I traced between the LG and XL for the vertical seams and it worked out perfectly. You can also see that the finished bust measurement for this top is inches bigger than the hip measurement in all sizes, which to me means that this pattern is geared toward the busty. A good thing for me and it meant no FBA was needed (even on my first make when I was bustier). Sorry that I don't have any real help for you on a FBA Rebecca Grace ... but since it has princess seams, if I needed an FBA, I would just distribute additional fabric needed among those seams and  panels.

This is the whole sheet showing finished measurements for all of the patterns CJ was selling at the time I bought this one (years and years ago). There have been patterns released since I bought this pattern so I'm not sure if the paper measurement sheet has been updated to include all of those too. But all patterns are included in a PDF download from the website, here.

In addition to all the measurements and sizing tips, there's also a section that explains the ease in CJ patterns, which I think is extremely helpful for accurate sizing choices.

The actual sewing of the pattern is a breeze. It's drafted beautifully, with notches where they should be and which match up perfectly. The sleeve fits the armhole with no easing. The neckline sits in a nice spot, not too low. The shoulders stay a normal length vs. linebacker in the larger sizes. The instructions are good and well-illustrated.

The only complaint I have about the actual pattern pieces is that they're drafted with 5/8" seam allowances everywhere. This is OK for fitting insurance on the vertical seams, but too wide for sewing in a knit sleeve without tons of pins and/or adjusting fabric every few inches. I've already noted on the pattern to trim those seam allowances down to 3/8". I may even get a wild hair and trim them before I put the pattern away. ;-)

And a semi-complaint is the neckline finishing instructions, but a complaint only on behalf of others. Turning under and topstitching is OK if your fabric is not prewashed and will shrink. But if it's been through the laundry or is a non-shrinking synthetic, you're probably going to need some sort of stablizer/elastic with such a long wrapline in order to prevent gaping. (My CS binding utilizes a differential feed to eliminate a saggy neckline.) An experienced sewer will know this. A beginner may not. But then, while this pattern is easy to construct, I don't think it's necessarily actually aimed at true beginners. That's not to say a beginner shouldn't try it. Just that they may need additional techniques in their sewing arsenal.

I'm already thinking about trying the other top in this pattern, and wishing I had gone ahead and ordered one or two others during the sale. I forgot how much I liked this pattern.

Hello Mojo

The mojo was back with a vengeance today, and all I can say is it's about time!

First up was clearing the mending and UFO's off the sewing table, and by clearing I mean actually doing the work. Two pairs of DS's shorts needed pocket repair. One on the front inside pocket bag. The other, to re-attach a back cargo pocket which had come unsewn down one side. (Sometimes I think I would like to be a fly on the wall at school to see exactly WHAT he does to his clothes.) Last was to *finally* hem the CJ wrap top I almost finished weeks ago.

With a clear conscience and clear table, I was free to sew the Jalie 2806 I had cut out last night. Get out your sunglasses, this print is not dull. ;-)



I bought this fabric on a whim a few months ago with a bunch of other prints. I wasn't sure if I liked it or not, especially with all that black in it and me not wearing black. The next worry was where all the circular designs would land. I had only bought 1.5 yds so there wasn't much wiggle room and I had to just lay down the pattern, cut, and hope for the best.

I'm quite pleased with this top and the fabric now that it's done, except I think I need a pair of white capris to wear with it. The motifs are not smack on the boobs or the butt. Whew! The fabric is one of the "good" polys — great drape and feels comfortable even during the 90+ degree days we're now stuck with for the next 6 months.

This is the view of this pattern with the foldover neckline gathers. It's my 3rd time making it (4th if you count my PJ top/muslin) and it won't be the last.



Pardon Zillie's rear end. The photographer (me!) didn't notice the fabric was hung up until the card was out of the camera and into the card reader. Oops.



The mojo was still in high gear after finishing that top, so I thought I'd get out my TNT Ottobre gathered neckline pattern and make that again. Except as I was starting to put away the Jalie, it occurred to me that the Jalie was also a gathered neckline tee and, well, what the heck, let's try it.



This fabric is much more Florida-friendly cotton/Lycra jersey. Very nice stuff from The Fabric Fairy.

This top is a keeper too, but I still prefer the Ottobre tee. The Jalie is much more gathered and looser all the way down the front. But since I've made at least 10 Ottobres, a little change isn't a bad thing, especially since I know I'll be making many more of the Ottobres for years to come. On this top, I bound the neckline and the sleeve hems with a brown knit from the stash.



Before the mojo starting begging for mercy, I got out my new J Stern jeans pattern and pressed the tissue so it's ready to cut and muslin in the morning. If it works for me and I can find some white denim, it will be the white capris I now want for the bright top above.



This last shot is just to show that I have actually hemmed this top. I think it hung on Zillie for a month with threads dangling. For some reason, I just could never make myself sew the hems until today. Weird, because I have been wanting to wear it and the coverstitch machine was already set up with the correct brown threads and needle positions. Mojo is odd that way and there's just no fighting the direction it takes.



So now I have three new tops to pick from tomorrow for my exciting outing to the grocery store.

Saved from Wadderville

I'd been staring at it sleeveless and hopeless on Zillie for weeks. I couldn't toss it because I really like the fabric. I couldn't (wouldn't) cut a new back piece because I didn't want to mess with that binding again.

And I'll digress for a minute …

This is the fabric. The binding was cut from the border. But it was a Royal Pain going through my coverstitch machine.



So I fused black knit interfacing to the back of the strip and it immediately behaved.



So, back to wrestling with the top.

Can you see what I did?



How about now?



It's not the most elegant of fixes but it's really hard to see unless you're looking for it. And, most importantly, it worked. Which means now I can wear it and after I do the hems tomorrow, I can also move on to something else. This top had been like a big boat anchor around my neck.

(In case you still missed it, I inserted a 1-inch strip all the way down the side, including through the sleeve too.)

Peek-A-Boo

So, here's a sideways view of the fabric closet. All looks fairly normal, right? (Note the stepstool at the bottom of the pic, for reference.)



I'm sitting at the cutting table and I hear some rustling sounds. I think they're coming from the fabric closet.

Yep! There's a critter in the closet. (See stepstool on the left.)



Not just any critter, though. It's Chili! He found the bin of fleece scraps in the corner and has made himself a nest. He stuck his head out because he thought he might be in Big Trouble, but all I did was laugh and point him back into the corner, where he promptly settled in for a nap.



While Chili was napping, I cut out panties from scraps (with NASCAR vrooming on the tube in the background).



And stared some more at the CJ crossover top still in progress. I like the top. I like the fabric. But there's not enough give in the fabric and so I don't like it on me. Sigh. This will be a sausage casing wadder until I drop 10-20. And at the rate of things around here, that ain't happening anytime soon.



In other news, I bought a new-to-me car this week. It's an orange Chrysler Pacifica. I've never had an orange car before but it's one of my colors, so why not. It matches my hair. LOL! I sure hope Chrysler is still around in 6 months, but my warranty is serviceable anywhere in the country, so I won't worry about that aspect. I just hate seeing all the businesses closing down this year. And a Big Three car maker? Who would've thought.

Productive So Far

I ran out of steam last night so the PJ pants didn't get sewn until this morning, but they're done.

The new CJ top has been cut and is in progress. I expect to have that finished tonight since it goes together fast. I decided to bind the neckline edge for this one, both to raise the neckline a little and for some contrast.

If I still have energy tonight, I'll be pulling out the big fabric scraps to see what I have for the panty making spree. I'll start with a cutting frenzy tomorrow, knowing I probably won't sew them all up at once. But at least they'll be ready to go. Hmmm ... I wonder if I have any pre-cut and waiting from the last round. That would be nice.

Off to feed the boys and then back to the sewing room.

Oh, and thank you all for the birthday wishes.

TGIF!

I am so ready for a weekend! I have grand sewing plans, although I'm fairly sure my plans are grander than my energy. I turned 47 (gasp!) yesterday and I'm feeling every one of those years lately. We'll see how much I actually accomplish, but I want to cut/sew the PJ pants to match the top above, cut/sew an out-of-the-house version of this top, cut/sew underwear, and rework some tab-top curtains into valances (last on the list both literally and figuratively).

The top above obviously is done. I ended up not turning up a hem. It's a PJ top after all so it really doesn't matter. But this pattern is short on me, even though I added a generous 1-1/2" to the length when cutting. I didn't want to be constantly tugging it down so I just serged the bottom edge. It looks lettuced but it won't after it goes through the washer/dryer once. Other than the length, I'm very happy with it. It's a nicely drafted pattern that went together well, fits great with only a couple small and expected adjustments, and is a little bit different from what I've been making lately. Although I *was* hooked on wrap tops a couple of years ago, they've all now aged (or sized) out of my wardrobe and this will be the only one. I want to get a public version sewn by next Friday, when I'll be taking out my peeps (my assistants) for a casual dinner.

Tonight, I'm going to cut and sew/serge some no-sideseam PJ pants to wear with this top. Those are very fast to do and I should be wearing them to bed tonight.

As mentioned, also on weekend agenda is new underwear. There's been a lively discussion on PR about making your own panties. Great timing for me because I'd already been thinking it was time for another batch and had ordered my elastics, etc. since my elastic supply was getting thin. Whether or not a sew-along is actually started, *I* will be sewing them. I may not finish them this weekend because assembly-line sewing is not my favorite thing to do, but I will definitely get them started. If I bring a DVD player into the sewing room, I might even get some done.

Just typing this all out I can already see I won't be getting to re-working the curtains. But that is a project I do want to get done sooner rather than later, so I'll make time for that in spurts over the next couple of weeks.

What to do, what to do??

It's not cold here by any stretch of the imagination (it's still upper 80s) but I would like to get started on some new pants for autumn/winter. The capris I've lived in all summer long are going to look really silly in January, and it will *be* January before I know it.

I ordered some Vogue patterns while they were on sale at the Vogue website and they arrived today. One of them is #2913, Sandra Betzina pants. I just looked to see if there were any reviews for it on Pattern Review and these results are mixed. Two nay and one yay. But ... one of the nays is definitely not my body type and the other has called herself a beginning sewer and there's no photo so it's hard for me to guess my results based on hers. (If you're that reviewer and reading this, in no way do I mean that as an insult. Just that I'm unsure whether it was fitting skills or the pattern or ? that led to your results. I hope that came out right. I do still appreciate the review and your time for writing it.) The only yay seems to be my body type but there's no photo.

Also in today's mail were the Christine Jonson patterns I ordered from a coop (and yes, some fabric was in the box too), which included another pair of pants ... these:

There are also three reviews for these pants. Again two with photos, and the one closest to my body type without. But, all three of these reviews were positive.

So readers, which one would you pick??

Sigh. I guess it's time for the tape measure and another muslin dance.