Sunday, February 25, 2024

Just in time for warm weather - Cashmerette Stanton

The Sewjo has been Slowjo since my last post. And that means I probably won't have much chance to wear this before next winter, except for taking Cyrus out back in the mornings while it's still below 50F in the mornings. But, hey, at least it's finally done. And proof that I'm still sewing and updating the blog. 
This is a mash-up between the Cashmerette Stanton Hoodie and the expansion pack, which includes the collar and half-zip view. There is no specific view or instructions for the full-zip front with the collar, which is a shame IMO. Personally, I don't really like hoodies on me. They give me knots and static in my hair at the back of my head, and it's never cold enough here to really need a hood. 
 
So, I had to wing it to add the collar to the zip front and still include the zipper and collar facings. I'm rusty and I goofed, which I'll talk about below. But whatever. It's done. I like it. It fits great. And no one is really going to care about my goofs, including me. I did not goof on matching up seams, etc. and those are the parts that really show so I'm calling it a win.
I created a primitive color blocking guide (below) so I could keep track of what was what when I was cutting out the pattern pieces and took a pic of the computer screen so I'd have it on my phone and with me while cutting. 
 I ordered 2 zippers from Wawak. After I decided on the final color blocking, I went with the purple zip. The main fabrics are both French terry from L'Oiseau Fabrics in Canada, with a matching rib knit purchased at the same time for the wrist and hem bands. The navy French terry was re-purposed from my failed HP Beatnik
Here's where you can begin to see my goofs. I should not have serged the facing edge and, instead, turned it under and either handstitched (no way!) or stitched in the ditch. Or, even better, created a new facing piece that incorporated the collar. At the very least, I should not have used navy serger thread. I can live with it. It's a very casual jacket after all and there's no sewing police to give me a visible seam ticket.
Sigh.
What I can't figure out is why the zipper facings came up short. Below you can see the seam where I added length to the bottom of each facing. I laid my pattern piece over the fabric to confirm nothing had shrunk after fusing the interfacing on. I double-checked I cut the correct size. Swapping the hood for the collar shouldn't have mattered. I haven't seen this mentioned in any review I've seen so it's probably me. Life is full of mysteries. :-)  
Otherwise, everything fit together well and the size I chose was spot on. I started with an 18 E/F cup and graded outward at waist and hip. I believe 2-3 sizes, but I've put up my pattern pieces and I forgot to refresh my memory before I sat down at the computer. I also used the full bicep pattern piece. No other fitting adjustments were made or needed.
Here's a Sunday no make-up, dirty mirror selfie with a photo bomber.
And because that was so great, here's another with the proverbial hand-in-pocket shot. Speaking of the pockets, many have mentioned that these pockets are good for keeping hands warm but not so much for actually keeping things IN the pockets. I agree. A phone or dog treats will slide right out. Before I put away my purple thread, I will add an "X Box" (no, not THAT one, but a sewn square with an X inside) at the bottom of the pocket flap. Credit to Nina Niskanen for that idea.
My next project is going to be some old lady overnight underwear IYKWIM. Sigh. Getting old has some suckie parts.

Parting shot: Where Cyrus spends much of the day when I'm working from home, and where I'm sitting right now as I type this. This is technically my dining room, with the fold down leaves of my table folded down and the chairs stored in the garage. It's not pretty, but it's functional and the commute sure is nice. Who has dinner parties anymore?