Thursday, March 1, 2001

Alterations: Full Bust Alteration on an Empire Waist Dress

First — and most important — if your bra cup size is more than B, pick the pattern sized based on your UPPER BUST measurement.

Slash the bodice, as shown in pink, leaving pivot points at the armhole and bust point.



• The center fold line of the original bust dart is extended to the bust point before slashing.

• If using a pattern with seam allowances included, the armhole pivot point should be at the sewing line, not the cutting line.

Spread the bodice apart the distance needed to meet the pattern piece center front to your center front, or the difference between your full bust measurement and pattern full bust measurement (per envelope), keeping the vertical and horizontal spreads parallel to the slash lines.



• A full bust alteration will add length under the bust dart. Move the bottom center piece straight downward to match pattern waist, and true seam line.

• Add tissue behind pattern to "fill in."

• The armhole remains the same length so no adjustment to sleeve is required.

• Move dart point 1-1/2" to 2" away from bust point and true dart (fill in with tissue, fold as dart will be sewn and trim excess tissue back to cutting line).

Adjusting Skirt


Measure the bodice waist and slash/spread the skirt waist to match. Add tissue behind pattern to fill in tissue.




Finished Pattern Pieces


1 comment:

Gail said...

Thank you so much. Do you know how to properly alter a scoop neckline into a square neckline?