Friday, March 28, 2008

Simplicity 4122 Muslin

Overall, I think I'll like it for a very casual and comfortable summer blouse. It's not something I'd go to meet the Queen in. But really, how often is she going to come knocking anyway?

I over-estimated on what I added for extra tushie/tummy room, so it's hanging *very* A-line at the moment. I experimented with pinning a waist dart in the front (seen on the right side in the above pic), and what I think I'll actually end up doing is adding a couple of waist darts in the back instead. I pinned those and it made the front hang better (with no darts), since most of the extra width is coming from the back.

I think some shaping is definitely needed if you have any hips at all. The model on the envelope is pretty straight-up and down. I'm not. But I don't want to ruin the comfort factor by overfitting either. Hopefully, I'll be able to strike the correct balance.

I'm also going to redistribute the gathering in the front. Using the pattern marks after doing the FBA, it's too full close to my armpit.

Below is the front pattern piece laid on my incredibly thread-laden floor. ;-) I started with the size 18. The red lines are a standard spread/slash FBA, with the underarm dart rotated to the neckline gathers. The yellow lines are the extra 2.5" of length added to the pattern before starting the FBA. The green lines are the extra hip room added at the sideseam by cutting at the seam line and moving the seam allowance outward.

This is the back pattern piece. Like above, yellow is the additional length added. The green lines are more width added. I only really needed about 75% of what I added. Oh, and I just remembered I made a swayback tuck, but I forgot to mark that in this pic.

These are the yoke pieces. I added 3/8" for my square shoulders at the outside pattern shoulder by slashing at the seamline and spreading the seam allowance.

I think the shoulders are still technically a bit too wide but I'm going to live with it. I really don't want to even think about messing with the yoke.

Now it's off for a walk before Chili pokes a hole in my knee.


  1. I think the dart in the right hand photo shaped it just the right amount. I agree with you that it would look better in the back. Looks like you have another great casual summer blouse!

  2. Gosh, I love the style of that blouse. It reminds me of a Jean Cacharel pattern that was in my stash back in the '80's.

  3. I think when the little dab of dart shaping in back is added it will be very nice.It was hot here in my part of the south today and some simple cool gear needs to be constructed even if it means elastic waist cotton capris and cotton just my size tees. I got a big chuckle out of the "queen" humor. I think I will always think of that when I finish a project now. I think I worry too much if the queen is calling when I sew and she is not coming here either. When cooking,walking/washing dogs, watering the horses, the gear needs to be comfy,cool(cotton rich), and easy to care for. I actually need more of this than Sunday dress up type clothes. I am going to get off my royal high horse and sew a few plain janes.Now your blouse would be in the queen class and not the plain jane at my house. It is quite nice. mssewcrazy

  4. WOW, Debbie!! Your blog is SO VERY HELPFUL for those who want/can do alterations!! I'm so impressed!!
    Rhonda, who continues to make neck pillows... :( ;)

  5. That is so pretty! I'm impressed by your alterations. I'm always trying to 'fix' patterns, too. Trying to get something to close over my bustline always results in shoulders that are too low and arms that are too long. It's a production. You do it so professionally!

  6. Debbie, I love your tutorials. Your knowledge base astounds me. I have a question re the alteration on the front side seam. You split the pattern there and spread inserting the needed room. Am I accomplishing the same thing by just adding that measurement to the outer edge of the pattern or am I missing some part of the idea? Thanks, Cathy-whose clothes don't fit as well as she'd like

  7. Like this pattern very much, pretty and cool. I too need to do the FBA but patterns never mark the bust point any more. How do you begin with out this needed landmark?

  8. I love the blouse. I especially like all the good tutorial information. The problem of getting fabric to ride over tummy and tushie without pulling when I sit down is always a problem for me, so it's good to see you tackle that area of the body. I'm always confused, though, as to what the term "overfitting" means. Maybe you'll answer my question when you answer questions asked by readers. (Hint!)


Thank you for each and every comment. I appreciate them all, but I have to be honest and let you know that I'm usually bad about answering questions. I hope you understand that there just isn't enough time in the day to do everything I want to do.

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