Sunday, November 23, 2008

Two Years Later



No, it hasn't been THAT long since I last posted. ;-)

I've been wanting to make View A of this jacket (Kwik Sew 3369) for at least two years now, but I never seemed to get started. Well the planets somehow aligned and slowly but surely I've finally got the jacket out of the fabric stage and into the closet. And not a moment too soon as the temps plummeted a couple of weeks ago.

Of course, I couldn't just make it as is. No, that would be too easy and too fast, right? Instead, I decided I needed to add a lining and also a pocket to one of the front panel seams. The problem with adding a lining is that the front placket/facing for this jacket is supposed to be one piece, folded over. That meant tracing the original pattern and making new pattern pieces because, of course, I wanted to make it still more difficult and use a contrast fabric, which meant it couldn't fold over.

It took me more than a week to trace this pattern and make those changes, working in stolen bits of time. (Remind me again that I like my paycheck because I really miss sewing all day long and I'm so behind on life in general.) But I finally finished tracing and editing the pattern and was able to cut a muslin. I had first traced the pattern pretty much as-is — just a little blending between sizes at bust level and the seaming changes already mentioned — because KS Plus patterns are already cut for fuller busts and I didn't think this jacket would be extremely fitted, judging by the photo and other KS patterns I've made.

I was right. The muslin was hanging off me. Except at my butt, of course. ;-) All these months sitting on it while working hasn't improved that situation. Out came the pins to hold in the tucks and this is what I ended up with:



I tucked a full inch out of the front and back yokes (faster than tucking the panels and it will make the pocket flaps not hit right at bust level) and across the sleeve. KS patterns are always too low in the armhole on me and their Plus patterns are twice as bad. I also tucked 1/4" out of the center front edge so the jacket will hang vertical when open instead of swinging outward and I narrowed the shoulders about an inch. Here are all the tucks close-up:



I transferred those changes to the pattern pieces, plus added to the back seams at butt level, and cut the real fabric, which is a canvas-like home dec fabric (from Joann's of all places!). The piece of white muslin sticking out in the pic below shows where I added the pocket to the front panel seam. I can't possibly have a jacket without pockets and the upper pockets are faux on my jacket since I don't need a pocket bag in that location, both utility-wise and flattery-wise. The poor jacket sat like this for a week, taunting me, until I could steal some more sewing time.



But I finally did manage to finish it and I've been wearing it like crazy. And I think I need another one!

Front view (see the pocket?):



Back view:



Close up (with more of Carolyn's buttons):



Lining (wonderful solid rayon bargain from Fabric.com):



Modeled:

36 comments:

  1. That turned out great! I like the contrast, too.

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  2. Do like the jacket, BUT am most excited that you are OK!!! I honestly was worried that something bad had happened. I was checking daily to see if you would pop in to say that you were breathing....Glad that you are healthy and busy. Happy Thanksgiving-Corinne

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  3. This is just beautiful!!! And so glad you are back :)
    Blessings,
    Patti

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  4. The jacket is gorgeous. But I've been checking 3 and 4 times a day and I am SO SO glad that you are okay. Thank goodness, I was so worried.

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  5. OH THANK HEAVENS! You are back! There is a whole topic on PR regarding your mysterious absence! I was trying to imagine all the things keeping you away--work, sons, etc. But football should be about over for you huh? So I, like the others, would check your blog almost daily to see if you had surfaced. Do you ever get the feeling you are being stalked by PR members from around the world?
    Anyway, the jacket is C-U-T-E! It looks great on you and great idea on using the home dec fabric. I am assuming you will have to dry clean? Still cute jacket. Glad you are back!

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  6. Love the jacket! Great fabric. Missed you too :) But I have Google Reader - no need to check every day ;))

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  7. This is adorable!! Way to return back to the online sewing world. -splash-

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  8. Oh frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!

    Debbie Cook is back.

    And I LOVE, ADORE, MUST HAVE the fabric you used for this wonderful jacket.

    Gotta say, you came ROARIN' back.

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  9. Glad you are back, and with a stylish new jacket to boot!

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  10. Great jacket! Yet another pattern you've persuaded me I need to try. :) Glad to see you back - you've been missed.

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  11. Love that jacket. How did you make the lining without all the piece seams? g

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  12. Great job as usual. Glad to see you back...you've been missed. Can't wait for the next project. Keep on sewing! Lorri

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  13. Woohoo! You're not only 'back' but blogging as well.

    I like the jacket and the contrast stripe fabric really makes it, so worth the extra effort when tracing. (Yeah, easy for me to say.) I hope you get to sew another before winter is over. I know your winter's are short and your sewing time even shorter now.

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  14. What a terrific jacket! So glad that all is well -

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  15. Debbie, as usual - a great job. I must admit when I saw the pattern picture I wasn't sure I would even bother with the jacket. It didn't look appealing to me. But with your fabric and your fitting, it's wonderful. Glad to see you are sewing again (wish I could say that for me =)

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  16. Debbie - your sewing always looks so professional. Great job.

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  17. Well, well, well. Look who's back!!! :) Good to see ya!

    I've had this pattern for at least two years. I was going to make a plain ol' denim jacket, but I like your idea much better. Home dec fabric!!!

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  18. So glad you're back! Terrific jacket!!

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  19. You have seriously been missed :) Great jacket! Love the muslin photo.

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  20. You turned a blah looking pattern into a really nice jacket! I enjoy the muslin shots, too. Very helpful to those of use who aspire to be you. ;-)

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  21. Pretty jacket, Debbie. Also, just like the rest, I'm glad to know that you are well and busy. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours.

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  22. Beautiful jacket. Great to see you posting again. You were sorely missed.

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  23. Hi Debbie,
    Your photo should be on the front of the pattern package, not those lame drawings.
    Great job, great colors on you.
    Vicky F

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  24. The fit is perfect, and I love the print with the contrast stripe you chose.
    Happy to see you're managing some sewing, along with the work schedule and football.

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  25. First - glad to see you back and sewing!

    Second - cute jacket! I can see you adding more to your wardrobe!

    Third - Once the buttons left my airspace for yours they officially became your buttons! *LOL*

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  26. Welcome back to the world of the living -- you've been missed!

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  27. Love the jacket. Like everyone else, I missed you. Is that a new haircut?

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  28. Gorgeous jacket - love the fabrics you chose and the fit is perfect (as always).

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  29. That looks FABULOUS! I wasn't sure about the fabric until I saw it on you and it's perfect!!

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  30. So cute, and Very Florida! You look great. Glad to see you posting again, and I'll say here that I think DS's test-pattern shirt is great too. What a good Mom to make a shirt that makes the eyes spiral!

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  31. The jacket looks great. I missed you too.

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  32. Your jacket tuned out wonderful..fit..fabric...perfect!
    So nice to have you back :)

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  33. What a beautiful jacket. and I am so glad you are back.

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  34. great to see you back !

    that jabcket is looking great.

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Thank you for each and every comment. I appreciate them all, but I have to be honest and let you know that I'm usually bad about answering questions. I hope you understand that there just isn't enough time in the day to do everything I want to do.

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