Monday, March 8, 2010

Another PSPS Update

Well, I got distracted by the Oscars and the Barbara Walters "pre-game" show so I haven't finished it yet. But it's coming along. This will definitely be a keeper pattern.

I opted for a slight FBA after all, because I decided that the front was hiking up just a bit without it. So I added 3/8" to the princess seams at bust level and added 1/2" add'l length to the center front, tapering to nothing at the sides. These were quick alterations that I pretty much just eyeballed, and now they're done so I won't have to do them again for this pattern.

I also had to do an "inside-out" full bicep adjustment on the sleeve. What I mean is that the sleeve was plenty big enough at actual bicep level, but it had waaaaay too much ease in the cap (more than 1") so I did kind of the opposite of a full bicep adjustment to remove the excess cap ease. I'll take pics because I'm guessing you have no idea what I mean. ;-) I didn't have to adjust for square shoulders but I did narrow the shoulder length by about 3/8".

I've just sewn the collar on and am deciding to stop there for the night. I'm glad I know how to do notched collars/lapels because even with this revision of the original pattern, the HP instructions are lacking. No wonder so many others have put this collar together in "unusual" ways.

I'll try to take some pics tomorrow.


  1. Debbie, you are really making me look forward to those photos! Must be the Academy Awards influencing you subtly - making us wait to find out who the winner is!

  2. Blow by blow updates definitely signals the sewing mojo is back. :) Hope it continues. I was sewing stretch bengaline pants today and thought of you.

  3. When I made the Riviera cardigan, admittedly not fitted, the only thing it really needed was a bit of length over the bust and to narrow the shoulders. I need to trace this blouse today!

  4. Thank you for your explicit alteration directions. Ver helpful. Pam (Off The Cuff) as a tutorial on her blog about the HP collar/lapel. If you're interested, it's listed under "Patterns" on the left sidebar. You probably already know that.

  5. I bought this one too after Pam (Off the Cuff) made one as a jacket! That really intrigued me so it will be interesting to see your version too!

  6. Isn't this the pattern that HP recently re-issued?

    I had to make the same adjustments when I made this shirt. I made a wearable muslin, wore it but never got back to making the final garment.

    I was a bit peeved about the amt of work I had to do to make it wearable. I would've been better off drafting my own. Having said that, I do like the overall silhouette of this shirt.

    For those who might get stuck when sewing HP patterns:
    The Reader's Digest Sewing book is a good reference to have on hand.

  7. I'm glad it's going well! I'm looking forward to seeing the sleeve alteration. I need all the help I can get!


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