Sunday, December 11, 2011

Starting B5566

So here's how my thought process went last night, through this morning.

1. I want to make a different pattern for the houndstooth skirt. Maybe princess seams with a contoured waistband.
2. I'm pretty sure I know what I have on hand from the Big 3/4 and I don't think there's anything there.
3. I haven't looked at my Burda WOFs in a while, so I'll pull them out.
4. Hmm. I'm guessing I'm a 48 in Burda WOF.
5. Thumb, thumb, thumb through the patterns.
6. Oh, I like that one. Drat. It only goes up to a 42. At this point tracing is enough. I don't want to grade it too.
7. Thumb, thumb, thumb.
8. Another possibility.
9. Another 42.
10. And so on.
11. An hour later, it's 3 AM and I need to go to sleep.
12. Wake up this morning and realize that I really do NOT want to do princess seams on a houndstooth check, esp since I only have 1 yard of it and can't do a bias panel cheat. What was I thinking??
13. I don't feel like going through all the Burdas again.
14. So I'll start thumbing through my Big 3/4s, this time looking for a very plain darted pencil skirt.
15. Nothing. Really, nothing?
16. How can I NOT have a plain pencil skirt pattern?
17. Changing gears again and narrowing it down to 2 or 3 not-quite-plain possibilities.
18. Butterick 5566 it is.
19. This one in brown with the pattern weight next to it, View B.

20. I figure I can do the pieced waist without too much fabric, and worst case, maybe use some faux leather from the stash.
21. Look at the pattern envelope to decide on a size.
22. Measure myself.
24. Realize I had TOTALLY guessed too big for my Burda WOF sizing. Slap forehead. Oh well, don't feel like backtracking.
25. Press and cut out pattern pieces for View  B.

Only then do I really look at the pattern instructions and realize that View A (lower left and right corners) is actually just a plain darted pencil skirt with AN OVERLAY. But I'm already mentally committed to View B, so I cut a muslin and sewed it. And here I am, channeling my inner Peter Lappin with a sheet skirt.

It fits perfectly with no alterations in the sheet (except I need to add more length to turn a hem), but my real fabric is thicker and I want to line it, so I'm going to add 3/8" to each sideseam to account for the extra bulk. I'm also going to sew it so that I can easily take apart the sideseams when I need to take it in. I don't want this to be a short-term disposable. And since it fits so well, the other views are sparking my interest again too. (My mojo always sparks in December, when I have a zillion other things to do.)

I don't think I'll be using a contrast at the waist but instead will cut those pieces on the bias and interface them for stability. Of course, I haven't even measured the actual fabric cut yet so that plan (like all my others) could change.

But first I have to get publicly presentable and head off to Joann's for a zipper (or 20). I will not buy fabric. I will not buy fabric. I. WILL. NOT. BUY. FABRIC.


  1. All the time you are turning out skirts and tops, and all the time trying to get back to sewing FOR ME. I have had a blouse cut out for months and have made baby blankets pajamas, mending, etc since. Maybe I should blog and moan about getting around to 'sewing for me'.

  2. So...what fabric did you buy at Joann's?

  3. Garnet128, you are so funny! BTW, I went to Joann's yesterday, and didn't buy anything, and I think Debbie can do something similar, too.

  4. Hi Debbie - when sewing this skirt - did you get the last edition of Threads magazine - it had a different sewing order, and if you use their suggestions, you will find that the skirt is VERY EASY to alter later...

  5. Isn't it funny how the sheet/muslins just about always work out, but if you skipped this step all hell would break loose. Expecially if you only had a yard of fabric with nothing to spare??? You are looking so good, well done you!

  6. I went to Joanns and fifty dollars later walked out. I call it all Christmas necessary. Works for me!

  7. I do believe in wearable muslins. And ... what fabric did you buy at Joann's :) I have no restraint when I go to Spotlight just to buy buttons/zips. I'm just too weak.

  8. Inquiring minds want to know, what fabric did you buy?! :)

  9. How do you do it? Go to Joann's and not buy fabric?! That's unheard of, in my household!

  10. Wow every time you show a new pattern, I wind up buying it. Thanks Debbie!

    Made the Miss Moneypenny after your showcase of it. Love it. Got so many compliments. So keep it up with the mojo, that way I don't need to work on my mojo.

  11. I just hate running out of zippers! I also have that same pattern on my inspiration board. Are you trying to tell me it's time to get it started?

  12. HA! I vowed not to buy fabric on Friday when i ran to the fabric store for ONE zipper, and I walked out with 2 m of fabric (for a gift!), a handful of thread, some ribbon, and 3 zippers.


  13. Hi Debbie, I enjoy reading your posts and seeing all the great garments you turn out. What a pro! Hope you will bear with me in asking a questiong here that doesn't pertain to this post. I own a CoverPro 1000CPX but have not used it much. Can you please tell me can I use the chainstitch for sewing seams or should I just use my regular machine and zigzag? I appreciate any info you can provide.
    C Beverly

  14. Although it is difficult at best to be in a fabric store and NOT buy fabric, Joann's is easier because of the fabric quality sinking.
    But that aside, whatever you need to do to rationalize the obsession is okay with me.


Thank you for each and every comment. I appreciate them all, but I have to be honest and let you know that I'm usually bad about answering questions. I hope you understand that there just isn't enough time in the day to do everything I want to do.

To help keep spam comments under control, any comments to blog posts that are more than 30 days old are moderated and will not show up immediately.