I haven't been buying a lot of fabric lately. (Just vintage machines. LOL!) But any time Lucysfabrics.com has new rayon knit prints in "my" colors, I jump on them. She did, I did, and these arrived yesterday. They did not disappoint. I love them all, and right now they are waiting on top of the washer for their pre-treatment, which will be nothing more than tossing them in with other "colors" for a full load through the washer and dryer.
The piece on the far right above is my favorite. What looks black is actually dark brown, which is my black. The turquoise and lime in the print are also two favorite colors, so all around it's a winner for me. I tried to order some more just now and either I was lucky with the last cut or it's all sold out. I hope I got it because this is the good stuff and I'd like to have it in the stash for next summer too. The print in the middle is similar colors, but the fabric on the right is a better quality knit. (They're all good quality, but the one is excellent quality. Belinda - it's the "dry stuff" so you know what I mean!)
So that's what's new in the fabric department.
Up next for sewing will be Butterick 5403, view B. This is a Connie Crawford jeans pattern. If you've been reading my blog for a while, you probably already know I have a love/hate thing with Connie Crawford's opinions and her patterns, which I'll get into in my small rant later in the post.
While I'd love to be hopping on the Jalie 2908 jeans bandwagon, the truth is that I just don't have a Jalie 2908 body so it would be unrealistic to think it wouldn't need a ton of alterations. Of course, that didn't stop me from buying the pattern so I may still give it a go. ;-)
This CC/Butterick pattern, on the other hand, is supposed to be drafted for my shape and should offer a better starting point. We'll see. I've got the tissue cut but haven't progressed more than that. The back yoke is an interesting (more curvy than usual) shape, which I want to see sewn up. The waistband is not so interesting. It's perfectly straight. Ugh. So I'm guessing I will be changing that or substituting my TNT contoured waistband. Straight waistbands don't work on my curvy high hip fluff.
Now on to my rant …
Connie Crawford was on PatternReview.com for a chat the other night. I didn't tune in for the live version, and instead read the transcript. Most of what was said was a repeat of info she's given in previous magazine articles, etc. But one Q&A stuck out, and confirmed what I've known all along. Connie has her own ideas of what plus-sized women *should* wear instead of what they *want* to wear. Case in point:
SherrilMiller (Apr 11, 2010 8:48:03 PM):
"I'd love to see you make a fashionable dress, one with a waist. Your draft does fit me. Any fitted dresses in the future?"
Connie Crawford (Apr 11, 2010 8:48:41 PM)
"The waist seamed dress is almost impossible to give the larger ladies. Since the same design has to be for both the smaller figure and the larger figure, I am sometimes limited on what will look good on both size ranges. I always consider the plus size lady first.. This is why I use fisheye darts and princess seams so much in the collection. You can fit the waist area with both darts, side seams and fisheye darts. but the waistline on larger ladies (sometimes with an apron) varies quite a bit. and it is not an area that the ladies want to emphasize."
Excuse me?? Why is a waist-seamed dress "impossible" and just exactly how does she know what I do or do not want to emphasize? Did she ask me? No! But if she had, I would have told her that I actually have a waist. Granted, it's a lot bigger than when I was 22, but it's there. And even if it wasn't, a seam will give the ILLUSION that it's there. A tent does not. And correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure I've seen plus-sized dresses with
Throughout the chat, Connie repeated how she draped for four years, blah, blah on 40 plus-sized women. Forty. What is that? Like .000001% of the female plus-sized population? Yes, those 40 bodies would give her insight into different shapes, but they would not even begin to be a representative sampling of what we want for styles. What exactly makes her an expert on that? If you ask me (and I know you didn't), I would venture to guess that plus-size ladies want to wear pretty much the same things that our thinner sisters wear. In other words, FASHIONABLE clothes. Not sacks, not tents, not a sloppy baggy mess. Just regular modern-to-trendy clothes that fit us. Even Walmart knows that. Butterick and Connie do not.
Using the McDonald's phrase about your fabric, "I'm Loving It."
ReplyDeleteSo colorful and beautiful
I completely agree with what you're saying. Shame on Connie. I'm a full-figured person and share so many of your sentiments. This is the reason so many full-figured ladies sew. It's because they're offered so little to choose from. Everything is black, beige or navy blue. Like you my waist is there, it just needs to be enhanced with creative belts, scarves, tie back etc. Way to Go!. You tell'em.
ReplyDeleteI'm not plus size but I totally agree with you Debbie. I've noticed that Burda WOF doesn't seem to have this design (or rather "attitude") problem. I often see plus-size WOF styles that I wish were in my size. So she has no excuse.
ReplyDeleteBy the way, I've been told by industry pros that plus-size fashions are drated from the same size slopers (size 2, tehindsutry standard) used for the smaller size ranges.
ReplyDeleteFirst off, I LOVE your fabrics! Secondly, I whole heartedly agree with you on the dress and waist issue! I don't want clothes that hang from my girls and give no definition and make me look even bigger!! Definitely want some shaping at the waist to look a little bit smaller! A skinny person shouldn't be designing for a not-skinny person! :)
ReplyDeleteI am not plus sized, but on the larger end, usually a 14-16 RTW, 16-18 sewing. I, too, love waisted things sometimes. Her items don't really appeal to me, for some reason. I am still learning what looks good, but the dress I still get many compliments on is my vintage pattern wrap dress from 1952, the first dress I made, that ties at the waist and has a longer flared skirt, kimono cap sleeves and a short band-like collar. It gives me waist definition when I don't have alot. My measurements are 39-34-42 and I am 5'1". Now, princess seams are good for me, too. But I do not wear a tent well at all unless I am pregnant, which I am not. They just make me look pregnant when I am not.
ReplyDeleteWhat hogwash. I love to see a woman of any size show off her figure with something more fitted - *everyone* looks better in fitted clothing!
ReplyDeleteBeautiful fabrics too! I can't wait to see what you make.
Totally agree with you! I am plus size and need some structure and shape otherwise I look bigger. No tents for me!! Oh, and those fabrics yumm!!
ReplyDeleteFirst, those prints are really pretty. Perfect for spring and summer.
ReplyDeleteSecond, I'm not plus-size, but my mom and several friends are. I've never seen any of them in tent-like clothing and would stage a fast intervention if I did. I agree with all of your comments and don't understand why some designers can't replicate the same styles they have for their regular "misses" line for plus-size women. I've heard my mom complain for YEARS about this and how hard it is for her to find attractive clothing that is made for her shape. So ridiculous.
Truly amazing--someone who is supposed to be an expert on fit thinks everyone of a certain weight is shaped alike. haha
ReplyDeleteI'm glad you ranted. I've been trying to get over the "large women should wear" mentality myself for many years. It's disheartening to hear such comments from a supposed expert.
ReplyDeleteNice fabric, btw!
I totally agree with your rant regarding Connie, most of her patterns aren't attractive at all IMO. What is she thinking!!?? Obviously she's not expert in regard to plus sized women. Thanks for speaking up!
ReplyDeleteLove the fabrics!! I totally agree with you about CC's comment. Plus sized ladies want the same fashionable dresses as smaller women. My waist may not be as small as it was but there is definition. I like to emphasize the difference between the waist and hips. Thankfully, we sew and make what we want to wear in wonderful vibrant colors, no less.
ReplyDeleteAmen- I wish she would design some cute stuff for plus sizes.
ReplyDeleteFabric candy always look good to me!!! I agree with your statements and expressions. I have been sewing for 40yrs. I am or will be 52. In all of the years I have been sewing for women who are "Fully-Blessed" (& I mean sizes up to 6x or a little bit greater) have wanted their clothes to be shapely to their figure. I was able to do it because I am and have been a plus size since I can remember. Back in the 70's some of the Butterick & other patterns were cut small. I had to learn quick how to make the patterns fit me. And I did. Yes, hogwash! I really believe it is just a matter of what one wants to do to make it easier for themselves (when these plus size designers will not go any further than just picking one plus size figure). Now when I shop for patterns, I get what I want, and that even includes a size 22 or 24 and make it fit a 4x. Yes, a bit more work. However it is worth it.!! Keep up the good Work "Stitches and Seams". Oh!! Love the little video on your 4 legged babies. lol.
ReplyDeleteI agree wholeheartedly! No one wants to wear a tent and that is exactly what CC's designs look like. I also mistrust designs only shown in illustrations. Have you seen the very interesting Patrones plus sizes? They show them on plus sized women and they don't seem to have any problems providing waists. Same with Knipmode. Of course, I don't think that Butterick is particularly stylish to begin with so that may be the problem. Why don't any of these pattern companies buy some stylish plus size designs to sell? They are out there. Marina Rinaldi is one who sells a range of sizes including the higher end that are stylish and fit well.
ReplyDeleteHear, Hear on the CC comments. I have almost no hips and am large busted so I don't have much of a waist. My most flattering dress is one with princess seams on the bodice that pull the waist area in enough to make it look like I have a waist without emphasizing bust size.
ReplyDeleteI'm loving your fabrics too. I always get scared by prints but they always look so good on you. I need to just get over it! Excellent comments about CC. I don't know if I'd exactly call her an expert because clearly she doesn't know what she's talking about!
ReplyDeleteI agree. As for her patterns, please notice that on the Butterick website, her jeans are shown photographed on several women, a variety of sizes. You can get a better idea of what that pattern looks like made up.
ReplyDeleteOh rub it in why don't you. LOL! I came so close to buying that rayon knit on the right from Lucy's yesterday but I decided to be good. Now you tell me how fabulous it is and you bought the last of it. Wicked I tell you, wicked. :)
ReplyDeleteRe: CC and waisted dresses. Someone needs to point Connie to Andreahg's reviews on PR. Talk about drop-dead gorgeous in a waisted dress!
ReplyDeleteI have spent the last several years in skirts and tops for that very reason, I don't like to look like I'm wearing a bag. I have recently found some very vintage patterns, in plus size, that look nice. That will be my next project. Dresses with waists.
ReplyDeleteI agree with your rant. Besides, it's not like you're asking for only one seam (that waist seam she "Can't" do) to show up in the style. Lemme see, running a business and NOT giving customers what they want does not compute.
ReplyDeleteOooh, I love your fabrics.
ReplyDeleteAnd I agree with your rant.
Shapeless tents do not look good on anyone, particularly on plus sized ladies.
CC seems to have a very narrow view of fashion and style.
Mermie
OK, Heather's comment made me laugh. I wouldn't call CC an expert either.
ReplyDeleteAfter all, I wore my new (vintage pattern), blue floral, WAIST SEAM dress today, and received tons of compliments. In fact, i couldn't leave my classroom without someone asking me to "twirl around, let me see". Take that tent lady!
Your rant is dead on! Even my dearly beloved womanizer says all women have a waist, and they all look better in a dress that fits than in a tent! I'm not plus sized but I hear how I should minimize my big bust by not emphasizing my waist, and that is such bull***t! Rant away!
ReplyDeleteNow I'm off to check out your fabric supplier. I need a fix...
Rant away girl!! I totally agree. I've tried one of her patterns, became so frustrated, I threw everything away!!! I'm plus sized and need that emphasis in my waist, or I look like a sausage...lol...
ReplyDeleteOoooh, I love your prints! They are so happy!
ReplyDeleteCan't comment on the plus size, but as a pear shape I have to have waist definition as well, otherwise my hips, as my widest part, define what my silhouette looks like. That does not work!
Right on!
ReplyDeleteI don't like to wear tents. I like to wear pretty, fashionable clothes.What I liked when I was size 10 is also what I like at size 18. I hate the term PLUS sized.It implies that those people are outside of the "normal sizes". Why don't we call the smaller sizes MINUS-sizes? or negative sizes? Connie Crawford is wrong. And you are right :)
ReplyDeleteAmen, Sister! I am on the top end of sizes, but not quite plus. I gain weight from front to back not side to side. Looking at my from the front, I have a definite waist and want people to notice that. If I wear clothing with an empire waist I just look big all over and hide that waist contouring. I guess I know why I'm not finding much I like in the way of patterns or in stores... they think like Connie. Guess I'll be looking for patterns that are a few years older - back when there were waists in things.
ReplyDeleteI don't have a defined waist. I usually choose two-piece dresses rather than loosely fitting dresses with no waist. But one of my favorite dresses is a BWOF with a seam at the waist! Connie is being a little myopic. I'm disappointed that the majority of Butterick's plus size options are Connie Crawford designs. What ever happened to choice?
ReplyDeleteElaray, I think you've hit the nail on the head. I'm sure there is a market for CC's designs and I don't want to be the one who kills that. I just wish that Butterick hadn't gone completely CC for their plus offerings, especially since a LOT of their former offerings were pretty and fit me great. But since they did let these patterns take over the plus section, then there should be more style options and not just tents for dresses.
ReplyDeleteLove your fabric selections! and the new resource for me to check out.
ReplyDeleteYour CC observation was well thought out. She once insulted my Midwest Fashion School education so since then I've not been a fan...but that is just me and I took it personally!
I agree that plus size gals want great clothes, with great detail, made from great fabrics. There is too much cheap fabric, no detail, and too many tents out there in RTW, although I really love Lane Bryant and Burda Plus Magazine.
I guess I'll need to figure out how to demo patternmaking for large size gals on my sight. I think that might be a good thing to do on a blog? It's a thought for me!
Love your blog and keep up the great work!
Hi Debbie
ReplyDeleteAs a new owner of a coverstich, I would love to be able to view your FAQs. Are your faqs permanetly offline. Hope not.
Thanks.
I have noticed when attending any of Connie's classes, the following is assumed: "It is MY WAY or the HIGHWAY". I have used her pattern drafting (pants) method and find it is as good as the one I paid mega-bucks for and which took four days out of my life. I am not plus sized, but formerly sewed for some. Everyone, plus or not deserves a well balanced look.
ReplyDeleteIn all fairness to Connie, I made a mother of the groom ensemble for a friends sister and we needed Connie's custom drafted patterns. This was vest, pants and top which turned out great. The directions were straight forward and the fit was amazing. This was years ago; does C. still custom draft?
Debbie, you are right on with your comments about CC's chat -- how many ways can she say "buy my pattern"? I kept reading just to see if she was ever going to answer Sherrill's question. In addition to her sweeping generalization about waist lines on plus size women, she said that princess seams were the best answer for ALL plus sizes. That statement is probably true for most plus sizes, but there are some of us without a defined waist and with a relative small bustline...and we don't look good in princess seams, we just look like we need a bigger rack!
ReplyDeleteI'm sooooo late to this conversation, but you know I think she's full of it and probably why I own 2 yes count them 2 of her patterns...which is saying ALOT since I buy WAY too many patterns!
ReplyDeleteThe second reason she's full of it...is because I've made dresses with a waist seam and waist embellishment. They fit fine and look good. Maybe the reason she doesn't design waist definition dresses is because she's too lazy to work out the fit!
It's not as easy and simple to do as on a thinner woman but hell if I can do it why can't the professional?
p.s. I love your new fabrics from Lucy. I looked at them but they are so bold that they wouldn't work in my lifestyle...can I admit that I'm a little jealous!
Hmmm, I just made a princess seamed dress with a waistline and received tons of compliments. Princess seams and waistlines are not an either-or proposition. Now, my pattern drafting prof did say that princess seams go around curvier women better than darts because it means you're not dealing with a lot of fabric intake between the dart legs (and she has curves, so I think she knows from experience) but she didn't say anything about waistlines causing problems.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad to know that I'm not the only one who has been less than enamored with CC patterns.
Debbie help!! I was trying to look at your Coverstitch FAQ and the page is a gray blank and says only "cefx" in the tab and all the wonderful coverstitch info is missing! Did you move to a new link? Or at least know where I can find the same info?
ReplyDeleteThanks! =o)
Jeana
PS I recently found a CoverPro 1000 on clearance at my local sewing shop!!! =oD So I have that and a Singer Quantumlock that I would like to use and industrial binder with and can't figure out how to attatch it..?
I'm late to this but here's my two cents: You know why CC takes the position she does on plus sizes? She's lazy. She's just like all those plus size dress lines that basically depend on some sort of tie at the back to try to get some sort of adjustment. Getting things to fit people who are not 'standard' (and this includes people with physical issues, height issues, short waists, leg length issues (my sister, who is 6'2" has the lowest knees I have ever seen; she can never find a skirt long enough)takes creativity and cleverness and a little imagination. Tents require none of these and actually, in a sneaky way, show just how she feels about designing for plus size women.
ReplyDeleteHere, here Toby! =o) Well said!
ReplyDeleteI'm late to the conversation, but I just wanted to add something. When I asked the question the first time, she totally ignored it. Deepika asked me in a PM to ask it again so I did. I guess she figured then that she had to answer it after being asked twice. She gave such a copout answer. Your rant mirrored exactly what I was thinking when she posted that answer. Even someone like me who doesn't have an hourglass figure wants a dress with a waist. It doesn't have to be a band across the midriff, just a seam line would be nice.
ReplyDelete