Saturday, August 31, 2013

Dusting off the Pattern Stash

I'm pretty sure I've had this pattern (Simp 3768) for at least 5 years. I even bought it in both size ranges, which is why you see "1 of 2" across the top because back then I needed the largest sizes for the bottom half pieces. There's a number of new (and not-so-new) patterns out that I want, but since I'm still catching up on four months of unemployment/smaller temp paychecks, it will be a while longer before I feel comfortable spending that money. And, really, I have PLENTY of patterns that are still brand new, if not new releases.

I was eyeing this one last weekend, and today it finally made it onto the cutting table. I'm starting with the draped-front top (View C) and am also thinking about trying the shorts. I'm severely lacking in weekend wear and these appeal to me.

I'm more than halfway done with the top ... maybe an hour left of sewing, but I thought I'd take a break to share my pattern "alterations."

First up is the front underlay. If you've been reading my blog for more than a week, :-) ... you probably know that my TNT tee is from the 02/2007 issue of Ottobre Woman. It love the way it fits and even if I don't sew it directly, I nearly always use it as the "block" for my knit tops. I really don't enjoy reinventing the wheel and since I haven't been making too many muslins lately, I like the better odds for a good fit when I start with a known commodity.

So, the front underlay ... which is just a simple knit tank. You can see that the bottom half of the pattern pretty nearly matches my TNT. But the upper half ... no wonder I keep going back to my TNT ... it's quite a bit narrower at the shoulders and upper chest than a straight 18 (which is where this pattern starts), or even a 16 or 14. And the armhole is a good 1/2" higher. I like high armholes in knits. They feel better to me. And a high armhole also reduces the visual bulk across the girls, which is much more flattering on me. I measured the pattern's shoulder length for the smallest size and duplicated that on my morph.

And the back ... again, pretty close at the bottom, but a narrower neck and a higher and more inset armhole. Again, I duplicated the shoulder length per the pattern so my pieces would fit together.

The cowl piece did have me scratching my head a bit but I finally decided matching the armhole *seam length* to my TNT armhole so my TNT sleeve would fit, and tracing the sideseam shape from the front underlay, would probably be all the adjustment I needed, at least for a first try. After sewing the shoulders, I found out that the unadjusted front shoulder length was a little bit longer than the new back shoulder I drew. (The front underlay has a much shorter length on purpose, per the design.) I think I messed up the length when working with the front armhole, but a little tuck on the shoulder seam near the cowl/drape and no one will be the wiser unless they're reading this. If this is clear as mud, wait for the final pics and I"ll point it out then.

Sneak peak. This fabric is also from deep stash and I'm sure some of you are still hoarding it. I've seen other bloggers' makes from it and I made a top years and pounds ago. I think that top went home with my sister when it became too big for me. This new top is using up the scraps.

I'm enjoying the long holiday weekend. No real plans except to relax and sew as the mood strikes. I made my billable time goal at work this week so I was able to leave at 2:30 yesterday. Nice perk! I'm really enjoying the people at the new place. Still miss my old duties a little but I'm getting up to speed with my new ones and into the groove of actual legal work again.

I'll "see" you next time with a finished top. And maybe even some shorts.


  1. Glad things are going well with your new job! You know I'm all about using the TNT pattern to make adjustments to new ones because like you I'd rather make things than fit new patterns.

  2. I made a wrap dress with that fabric. LOVED. IT. Can't wait to see what you make with it. :)

  3. Love that fabric. Looking forward to the finished product.

  4. I love the fabric, too...looking forward to seeing the finished top. I'm another fan of TNT patterns (It took long enough to get them done!)and use them most of the time. It's good to hear that things are going well with the new job!


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