Not Quite

This is going to end up being my muslin for this pattern. It pretty much fits, but I don't like the way it fits. It's too long overall and the waist is hitting me in the wrong place. I would show you on me but I'm not camera ready today. It was raining all afternoon and I took the dogs for a walk anyway and never did fix myself up after that. But the temperature drop with the rain was a nice change from the usual 6 billion degrees and 400% humidity.

Back to the skirt — I could take some length off at the top, but that will mess with the darts and zipper and, really, I'm not up for reworking this one. The length needs to come out the right way, by removing it from the middle of the pattern, so I can preserve the darting and the slight pegged shape. What bugs me is that I knew this. I had made some initial alterations (adding booty width) but then I set the pattern aside for a couple of days and forgot I still wanted to check the overall length so I just went ahead and cut. Oops.



I like the overall shape a lot, though. I'm obviously into gored skirts with flounces for the summer, which is good because I think it's a flattering silhouette for my curvy shape.

The front of the flounce is interesting. It's more of a handkerchief shape when laid flat than it looks while on.



Even the sides of the flounce have an angle.



The only thing left on this skirt is the bottom hem (which is going to be interesting with those points). I think I'll hem it, use it for judging my adjustments, and then put it in the donate pile.

The Chase

Not high quality and it's silent, but here's our latest entertainment — Dani chasing a laser pointer.



She'll go on and on and on, chasing forever. And when we're done and the light goes away, she sits and stares at the floors and walls waiting for it to show up again. She just knows it's still out there, somewhere, hiding from her.

Up Next?

I think this skirt is what I'm making next. It's from the 04/2005 issue of Burda WOF, the issue with the (in)famous twist top. But I haven't even started tracing it. Life is busy these last couple of days so no sewing-related activities have happened. (Well, last night at bedtime I did read through the Australian Stitches that arrived in the mailbox yesterday.)

Right now my plan is to test this pattern in the stretch poplin print I've had out for the second skirt to match the new lavender tops. If it doesn't work, no big loss. But if it does work, I can see this being a good skirt staple for many skirts to come. This skirt does have an elastic waist, but it's as a facing not a casing. It also has a back invisible zipper and darts all around, for a somewhat sleeker fit (I'm hoping).

DH is going with the boys tonight to see Harry Potter in IMAX. I have no interest in Harry Potter (sorry HP fans!) so maybe that will be my opportunity to trace and cut.

One More Lavender Tee

This is #3 from the Diana Mode inspired tee pattern I created with my pattern software. It's also the second solid lavender top I've made this week. I don't know why I was stuck on lavendar. It's not even one of my usual colors. But it was calling to me from the stash so I listened.

I wanted to experiment with this one and so I made up a frilly neckband to add some interest up near my face (and away from the fluff!). The front and back neckbands are usually made from two layers each. For the front neckband on this one, I channel-stitched 4 concentric rows (more or less) on the two layers and then I added a third unstitched layer for the back. If you've ever done the chenille technique, it's just like that. I also satin-stitched a vertical line down the middle just because. ;-)



I slashed through the center of the rows, through the first layer only. When I was done, it looked like this:



Then I continued with the rest of the construction as usual and tossed it into the washer and dryer when I was done. I got the effect I was hoping for — curly frills.






I left the back neckband with no frills.



Here's a close-up of the sleeve, for which I again used the original Diana Mode pattern pieces.



So now I'm done with all the patterns I cut out last weekend. I still have one more skirt to make to go with this latest tee but I'm still working on the pattern alterations since I'm short on fabric for my first choice of pattern. I have to say that I've really liked having multiple garments cut out at once so that I get a mini-marathon of just sewing.

Another Tee & Other Stuff

I think Belinda and I are in a race to see who can sew the most tees from 02/2007 issue of Ottobre Woman. ;-) This is my third and she's up to three (four??) too. This one is design #5, but I used plain sleeves instead of the puff, banded sleeves from the pattern that I used for the first one. I also remembered (too late) that I sewed the first neckband with a smaller seam allowance so it would turn out a little wider. This purple neckband is narrower than the other. It's still perfectly fine though, and not anything I'd point out in real life. I've now made a note on the pattern piece so hopefully I won't forget the next time. And yes, there's definitely going to be a next time, and a next time, and a next time with these Ottobre tees!

I edgestitched the neckband with my sewing machine (per the instructions) this time, instead of twin needling with my coverstitch machine. This is good for a little change but I think I prefer the double needle effect. Next time I won't be so lazy about rethreading, which I had to do anyway for the hems.

(Oh, and before you ask, the fabric is from Lucy's Fabrics, but it's sold out.)



Next up, some answers to comments. After that, a little meme. Don't worry, no personal info required! Keep reading to see if you've been tagged.

* * * * *

"I really love the look of this top with the cute tie and gathers in front. Did you use a particular pattern, or is it another variation of one of your TNT tops?"


Thank you! It's from the 06/2005 issue of Burda WOF, and yes, it's a very TNT pattern. It's one of my favorites, as you can see below. I've made it 4 times now. I was trying on the latest aqua top last night before tossing it into the laundry to get it back into shape and I decided that this pattern, with short sleeves and the ties sewn in place, will make a great nightgown too. So that's on my list for someday too.

Here are the photos of the past versions, and the Burda line drawing:









(Regarding sewing lingerie) "What if your machine doesn't have a three stitch zig zag?(Mine doesn't.) What's the next best thing?"

A regular medium zigzag stitch.

"On the panties that I just made, I used my CS machine. Some of the stitches popped. I think that is because I wasn't using wooly nylon. Maybe I should use the 3-step ZZ instead. Is this why you don't use the CS for elastic in panties?"

Wooly nylon in the looper and regular sewing thread in the needles should help prevent the stitches from popping. But, yes, that's why I don't CS for panties. The triple ZZ just seems to hold up better, and it's faster to do since you don't have to keep switching machines, etc.

"On the last picture of the overlapped ends (of lingerie elastic), I can't tell where it's overlapped. Do you zig zag horizontally across, or do a zig zag the length of the overlap?"

I zigzag the length of the overlap. I've added a photo to the tutorial on my website which should help explain.

"I am curious as to whether you have used Curves software to create panties or do you prefer the KS pattern?"

I haven't used Curves for panties. No reason, really, except that I have the Kwik Sew pattern perfected for me so no need to reinvent the wheel. I did like having the instructions for the first time I made them, which you don't get with a self-draft in Curves.

"I like this top a lot. Can you show the trim up close? I see that you bound the neckline, but is that what you did on the sleeve hems? Which pattern is the skirt? It looks great with the top."

Thank you! Here are some close-up pics. The sleeve hems are just straight strips of cross-grain knit, sewn into rounds and pressed in half and then applied in the round with my serger. I coverstitched the seam allowances up with my coverstitch machine. The sleeve pattern (from Ottobre Woman) is gathered at the top and onto the band. I pinned the band onto the bottom of the sleeve 1:1 until about 2 inches on either side of the outward center. Then I just stretched the heck out of it while I serged. ;-) That's why you see a little gathering at that area. It's supposed to be there. After a trip through the laundry, it will be back in shape.

The skirt is my ol' TNT, Kwik Sew 3287.








* * * * *

Finally, here's the meme. The "rules" are simple. Answer the questions, add photos if you want (or steal mine), and tag 5 other sewing bloggers.

1. What kind of seam ripper do you use?

I use this one. They are very sharp and stay sharp a long time. But they're cheap when they need replacing. I buy mine from Nancy's Notions for under $3.98 each. And I buy 2 at a time so I always have a sharp one.



2. What do you use to snip threads at the sewing machine?

I use these little Gingher curved embroidery scissors. They're very sharp, and easy to grab quickly.



3. What do you use to cut out patterns/fabric?

Mostly my Olfa 60 mm rotary cutter, even around tight curves. I like that it covers more "real estate" at once than the smaller cutters. I use the 20 mm cutter to cut traced patterns which need a seam allowance added. I wish there was a seam allowance thingy for the 60 mm cutter. The spring-loaded Fiskars are used mostly for cutting notches/snips and other miscellaneous tasks.



4. Do you stash zippers?

Yep. I love not having to run to the store for a zipper. Not that the local stores ever have the right color anyway. ;-)



5. Which takes up more space in your stash — knits or wovens?

Knits, hands down. Probably 65-75% of my stash is knit fabric.

6. Are you wearing anything today that you made?

Yes. I made everything except my bra, shoes, and jewelry. More specifically, I'm wearing the orangey gathered front top you see above, khaki knit capris, and (TMI) one pair of my newest undies.

7. Does anyone else in your family currently sew?

Yes, my mom sews. My sister owns a sewing machine but she doesn't really sew.


8. What is the last $$ sewing-related (non-fabric) item you bought?

I think it was my big cutting mat.

9. Cutting out, pressing, hemming. Which one do you like the LEAST?

Hemming. I usually just wing it, by eye. ;-)

10. Do you have any non-chain garment fabric stores in your local area?

Yes, there are 2-3. But I usually shop the internet because it's more convenient. These stores are nice, but they are about a 30- to 60-minute drive.

OK, I tag: Belinda, Gaylen, Beki, Erica, and Angie.