That's More Like It

I've finished tracing and cutting out the new pieces for my "up-graded" pattern, which is now a straight size 48 with no alterations (yet). I think I did pretty well. The seams line up correctly and the fit on Zillie is what I'd expect for a Burda size 48. The only glitch is the neckband but that's because I altered for my square shoulders as I was tracing. Adjusting the neckband to match will be easy.

As for alterations — I will have to do an FBA …




and add at the waist and hip …



and it looks like the shoulder-to-waist length is too long, which is disguised in the front because of Zillie's (and my) full bust.



But these are all my usual alterations, so I'm quite pleased with myself and the grading!

Tomorrow, I'll make those adjustments and make an ugly muslin.

Plan A & Plan B

Plan A: I traced the pattern. Then I cut it out without seam allowances to have a look at on Zillie and decide how to proceed. The good news is that I'm pretty sure I'll like this top on me if I can work through the alterations. The bad news is the alterations are going to be many. But I knew that going in.

As you can see below, the underbust band is under Zillie's bust. But …



… that's just an illusion! I have the whole garment pinned a couple of inches down from the true shoulder.



And there's still quite a bit of real estate in the nether regions left uncovered.



I stared at the pattern draped on Zillie many times today. Part of me wanted to start slicing & dicing to add length and width "by eye." The other part of me was thinking how messy and unexact this would be and how I want to preserve the original lines as much as possible.

Plan B: Returning to Square 1 and grading up the pattern in a more controlled manner.

I used the grading lines on the pattern sheet (the pattern in pink) to go up 3 sizes, from 42 to 48. More specifically, I measured many points on the pattern between the printed sizes and then increased by those amounts at corresponding points on the pattern sheet to create my new size. I did this on the pattern sheet itself because, hey, what's one more set of lines, right? If you click the photos to enlarge them, you should be able to see my black pen lines a little more clearly.





This grading process really didn't take that long. I sat at my cutting table with the TV on in the background and I was done in about an hour. Next, I'll trace again but this time following the lines of the "new" size and adding seam allowances so I can cut a muslin. I know I'll have to do regular pattern alterations, but first things first. Let's see how this up-graded pattern fits Zillie and how accurate my grading is.

Judy asked in the comments about the origin for the Duro name. Duro refers to the London-based designer Duro Olowu who reincarnated this style a couple of years ago and made it his own for the runway, with bold prints and colors. It's trickled down to the masses and it seems that all dresses (and tops) with this basic look are becoming known as Duro dresses (tops) even if they're not Duro originals.

Can I Make The Grade?

I love this top. I've seen a few versions reviewed on Pattern Review which make me love it even more. The problem is, it's sized 34-42 (Euro) which is definitely too small for me.

I'm going to spend some time today working with the pattern, hopefully to the point of sewing up an unwearable muslin to see what I can do to make it fit me and if I even like it on me at that point. Pretty soon, this banded/Duro-esque trend will be completely over and if I don't hop on the bandwagon soon, I may miss it completely. Remember, I don't live anywhere near NYC so trends are slower to pass here in Florida and I do still have time for this one. ;-)

If I can "make it work," I want to use this ebay fabric, with a solid brown for the bands:



And if *that* works out, I have a brown crosshatched stretch denim for a pair of capris to wear with it. But's that's getting waaaaaay ahead of myself because, if you haven't guessed by now, my "up next" list changes with the rise and fall of the sun and moon.

The skirt from the last couple of posts is still on the back burner. It's not abandoned but the project needs to percolate some more while I think about fabric choices and possibly altering it a little more to move the CB zipper to CF. Or maybe just using a more drapey knit and doing away with a zip altogether.

A New Day

(Or is it a different pair of undies??)

I tried the Burda WOF purple skirt on again this morning and I'm liking it better. It can't be the "Magic Wardrobe" because it never made it that far. I'm thinking that the real magic was a slippery-er pair of panties underneath while I tried it on. I know, I know — proper undergarments, which in this case will have to include silky panties or a slip (or both).

It's still too long, but only compared to my other summer skirts. It should be perfectly wearable after I hem it. I'm still deciding on whether I'll keep it or donate it, but I have made my pattern alterations for the next time while the info is still fresh in the gray matter.

We're off to the dogpark before the daily afternoon thunderstorms hit. The pooches are full of energy and really need a good "burn-off" session. Even Pepper has been, um, Peppy ;-) this morning. I hope there are a lot of playmates at the park today to wear them out. No, Chili won't be wearing his new No Fear shirt.

Little Projects

Chili has a new shirt. (Claire, it's all your fault!)



I've had DS#1's thermal knit shirt sitting on top of the washer for months. He didn't want it anymore but I thought he might change his mind when it got colder so I hung onto it. For whatever reason today I unfolded it and noticed it had a couple of small holes on the front near the bottom. I was just about to finally toss it when Chili wandered in, and the brain began clicking. Chili—No Fear, No Fear—Chili. Perfect!



This pattern (KS 3076) is ridiculously easy and fast. The hardest part was unstitching the neckband from the original shirt so I could re-use the ribbing for the mini version. I also re-used the ribbing at the sleeve cuffs but all I had to do for those was to cut them off without any unstitching and then join them together to make a strip.



I did change up the construction order so I could attach all the ribbing in the flat. It's a LOT easier for those very small neck and "arm" holes. I think I'll update my review with that information and the new pics.

Here's another shot of the dogs new shirt (and DS' feet).



The other little project of the day was a quilt block to send in to be part of the "commemorative" quilt for Pattern Review. It's been a long time since I've done any quilt piecing, but it came back fairly quickly and this project, from design to done, only took a couple of hours.



I haven't done much more than that in the sewing room (unless cleaning up and prewashing a couple of fabrics counts), but I feel it was a productive day.