Sunday, July 6, 2008

The Heat Is On

This is a muslin for my first HotPatterns pattern, the Deco Vibe Cosmopolitan Dress. A wonderfully nice member gifted this pattern to me and since the huge envelope was taking up so much room in my to-make pile, I decided it was time to give it a go and regain that space.

I traced a straight 18, which (according to the size chart) is near to my actual measurements but definitely smaller. I decided on the 18 after comparing the pattern to my TNT Ottobre tee pattern. The 18 was closest in the bodice to that. The skirt will definitely not fit me in an 18, so I'll need to make a partial test skirt to add onto this bodice to check how much more width I'll need and where/how to morph that onto the waistband pieces. Note to self: Check length of skirt too, to avoid wasting fabric.

The bodice fits pretty well, but I do have some quiggles. First, obviously is the hoochie neckline. And this is already after raising it over an inch while tracing the pattern. (Is anyone actually wearing the original neckline, because every reviewer has mentioned raising it. And if so, were they arrested?)

The bust space and dart height seems to be sufficient for the DD girls (amazing!), but the dart ends right at the bust point. Ouch! I'll have to back that off and redraw the dart.

The shoulders and back neckline are wonky. I believe these are a direct result of the Wild Ginger software used to create these patterns. I recognize the awful back neck curve that I always have to redraw when I draft my own patterns with WG software. I don't have a particularly strange neck or curve in the back, and you can see how high it is on the dressform's standard neck. It's a software glitch, which IMO should've been corrected.

The shoulder angles themselves don't match. The front is more sloped than the back. For me, this meant only altering the front piece for my square shoulders since the back shoulder angle was already "squared." This worked, except the entire shoulder point is too far forward for me so I'll be moving the corrected seam backward about 3/8". With that and correcting the back neck curve, I will eliminate the chokehold effect.

I'm not sure how much more time I'll have to work on this today as household errands are calling, but I'll update here with progress as it happens.


  1. OOOOh, I'm eager to see how this works out for you. I love the versions that Gigi and Ann (Gorgeous Things) made. I want one like that too! I have to get that pattern. LOL.

  2. Dare you to wear one with the original neckline.... };)

  3. I will be watching this progress closely since I have seen very few plus size versions of this pattern.

  4. Ditto with the watching closely. I've not been interested in HP because of the numerous drafting errors/quirks.

    And, you know, the hateful. ;)

  5. Hoochie neckline? Is this a technical term? ;o)

    I'll be watching this, too. I've avoided HP patterns because they just don't seem to be designed for a plus sized body. If anybody can pull it off, you can.

  6. I've made it a couple of times. With the scoop neck, I can make it with the original neckline if I am going to wear it to dinner only. for a work look I like to raise it a bit. I do not have any problems with teh cross neck.

  7. My very favorite dress pattern! I had to raise the neckline because the pattern is drafted for 5'7.5" in my size and I am only 5'3". I didn't have a problem with the back neckline though.

  8. I just read today that one is allowed to sell clothing made from patterns drafted with Wild Ginger software but not sell patterns drafted with this software?
    Are you sure HP is using Wild Ginger?

  9. To Anonymous: Wild Ginger has different products. One is a commercial product specifically for creating commercial patterns, with different licensing/permissions than for the personal (PMB) products.


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