Friday, July 4, 2008

Slow and Steady with Vogue 8118

While trying to find a job, I've actually been working a temp job from home. It's horrible, data-entry type stuff, but it pays very well and it's from home so the commute is great. But after 8 hours of working with huge spreadsheets and figures, I'm cross-eyed and don't have much brain power left for sewing. Still, I have found some time during the week to start a new top.

I've been working, in dribs and drabs, on Vogue 8118 (now OOP). I'm going to make it with the short flutter sleeves and the tie neckline, omitting the back tie.

So far, I've managed to do the pattern alterations and make a muslin. Here's the upper front bodice, altered. The yellow lines below are the normal slash/spread FBA. I had originally entertained the thought of being lazy and leaving the side dart but once I filled it in and folded it into place, I realized that it was going to overlap the empire seam. Oops. So I decided to close that dart and rotate it into the underbust pleats where it belongs. The green lines below are my slash lines to move the rotated dart into the pleats. (Click on the photos for a bigger, clear version.)

Here's the final pattern piece with the side dart rotated into the underbust pleats.

The lower front is cut on the fold so I just added tissue to the CF the same width that I spread for the FBA above (1-5/8").

I also added waist/hip width to the back piece and made a 1/2" swayback tuck. I didn't do anything to the sleeves, since measuring told me that this flutter style would be more than roomy enough for my large biceps.

Then I cut the muslin to test the changes and it's pretty good. I still need to make my usual square shoulder adjustment, but I needed a reference point for where my shoulders hit in the raglan sleeves so I decided to make that adjustment after I could mark a spot on the muslin. That adjustment will also move the empire seam down the 3/8" additional that I still need right under the breast.

Other reviewers on PR have noted that this neckline is low. I'm on the fence, but I'm going to leave it as is because I don't think it's too low on me (even with the SA gone) and the tie will provide additional coverage/camouflage. If I regret it, well, I'll just tie a really big bow.

I'm not usually a fan of flutter sleeves, but the intended fabric is drapey and sheer and the sleeves will hang less stiffly than in this muslin. Plus, the sleeve doesn't go around the whole armhole which means it will be cooler to wear with the underarm open the way it is. Sleeveless, but not really.

I'm going to cut the real fabric today and hopefully get it sewn. It's a pretty easy top, so it should go fast.

* * * * *

I'm waiting to hear about the Monday interview job. The interview went well and I've been told I am a very strong candidate, but now I'm not sure if I want it (for a few reasons). Sigh. But I won't make a final decision about it unless/until it's offered to me. There's also a good possibility that the from-home temp job could be permanent if I'm interested. But am I? (And if I am, what happens to my new wardrobe?) This job-hunting stuff is draining. But at least I'm making some money during the slow summer hiring season so it could be worse.


  1. If you don't want the at-home data entry job, send it to me!!! I love all those fiddly spreadsheets and whatnot. LOL

    It would be a shame not to have a place to go to wear all those gorgeous pieces you made for your work wardrobe.

  2. Nice top. There's a lot to be said about working from home. You can get up in the middle of the day and still take the doggies to the dog park. And no pantyhose required. LOL. Good luck with whatever you choose.

  3. Interesting top. I love seeing how you solve the fba on not so basic styles.
    What's with the back ties on tops? They're like little girl dresses to me. this one is narrow, but still. I'd also hate to be stuck in the car for hours with that against my back.

  4. This top looks good even in the muslin. Thanks for the tutorial. I work at home and I like it, but it isn't for everyone. Good luck with your job search!
    Happy Independence Day!

  5. Another, closer look. The pleats seem to be a little far to the side of your body, and not under the bust.

  6. Debbie ~ I made this blouse and reviewed it on Stitchers Guild after seeing Debra H make it on PR. Here is the link:,648.msg12123.html#msg12123

    Of course I made it at my old job and it has never seen the light of day at this one...but thanks for reminding me that its in the closet. It's a great date night or girls night out top with some black linen pants!

    Good luck with your version and good luck with the job interviewing!!!

  7. How did I miss this pattern? I love the tie neckline one!

  8. On the flip side regarding the wardrobe, if you need to dress up for weddings,funerals, dressy occasions,church etc. you are all set even if you keep working at home. For some reason I forget about those type needs with my casual lifestyle and then I am kicking myself for not having something wonderful or at least not so dated when I need those kinds of clothes. At least this gave you the push to get your wardrobe smoking hot which is what lots of us at home people often need motivation to do. I bought this pattern v 8118 just now (sigh) as your muslin looks fantastic and very slenderizing. I need to just put the best of the pattern stash in the closet as that is about as close as I seem to get to sewing them up. The alterations look difficult on this one -it's a good thing you have pictures up for fba and such. I hope I can figure it all out if I ever attempt to sew it. I know the minute you put the finished blouse up everyone is going to beat the bushes for this pattern.It never fails. Good luck with your work choice. mssewcrazy

  9. It's looking nice! I like that you show your altered pattern pieces - what a cool visual lesson.

  10. If you don't want the at-home data entry job, DON'T send it to me! I don't have "computer endurance." My mind wanders...

    I read your review of the blouse on PR and made my comments there. I do love that fabric. Too bad you don't love the blouse.

  11. Somehow I’ve missed this in the Vogue catalog…I’ve been looking for a pattern to use with Solarweave because I want tot make some sun- protective tops; this one would have been perfect.

    Best of luck job hunting! This is can be a challenging time to be looking. I found myself unexpectedly looking for a job this spring, and it took ne 8 weeks to land a job. And this was after immediate traction on my resume (and in my specialty I’m highly qualified) 2 recruiting firms working for me, at least 30 resume submissions on my own, 8-10 interviews, and 3-4 solid offers or near offers that didn’t pan out for various reasons (not enough money, commute was too long with such high gas prices, no work-life accommodation, etc. etc.) Plus, I’ve worked full time since my kids were born! It can be tough.


Thank you for each and every comment. I appreciate them all, but I have to be honest and let you know that I'm usually bad about answering questions. I hope you understand that there just isn't enough time in the day to do everything I want to do.

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