Saturday, August 9, 2008

Jalie 2806

Looking at these pics, the makeshift dickey/cover I made for Zillie so the contrast binding of the shirt would show looks eerily like real skin. Weird. But anyway …

The top is done, and an explanation for securing the foldover by machine is below.

I added the hem band to this one because …

… I made a skirt to wear with it.

It's my TNT Kwik Sew 3287, with a sewn-in contrast band added. I'll take some pics of me wearing these in a day or so. Today is so not a photo day.

I was doodling with ideas to try to work in the solid brown contrast, because I wanted to break up the print and tie in to the neckline binding on the top. The others were just too much.

Here's my pattern pieces with the back neckline reshaped, which I also blended into the front neckline.

So, here's how I did the neckline. First, I bound the neckline with my coverstitch machine. I clipped a bit further than the Jalie instructions because I wanted to be sure the foldover would be clear of the machine foot when I was stitching the binding. It left a little "hole" which is OK because it's about to be covered up. The wrong side of the fabric you see below is the foldover moved out of the way to take this pic, with a piece of paper under it for contrast.

Here's the foldover with the basting stitches in place and pulled to create the gathers. Once I had the gathers drawn up, I overcast the end of the foldover with my serger to hold the bottom edges together, which makes them easier to catch in the stitching that comes next. I then pinned the foldover in place on the neckline. (By the way, I placed the gathering stitches more toward the end of the foldover than the Jalie instructions show. If you follow the Jalie illustrations, they will show at the neck edge but I wanted to leave the stitches in place to hold the gathers so I moved them.)

It's now folded over to the wrong side and held by pins.

Here, the foldover is moved a bit so you can see the pins. Note that the pins do NOT go through the foldover at all. The back side of the foldover is pinned to the "middle" layer only.

To secure the foldover by machine, push the foldover out of the way and sew from the vertical CF stitch line out to the edge of the foldover. My stitching is about 7/8" long …

… and is highlighted in red below.

Push the foldover out of the way in the other direction and sew this side, as shown in red.

This is what it looks like from the wrong side. The foldover is NOT sewn all the way across. The red lines show the two separate stitch lines. They almost meet, but not quite.

You can also see that my coverstitching doesn't cover the edge of the binding on the back side. The knit I used likes to curl and I find it behaves better if I have the binder set so the bottom is a bit wider than the top.


  1. The set is so nice. The tutorial is excellent. I cannot believe I don't have that skirt pattern and it is a Debbie C TNT. I will have to find it on the next road trip. Somehow I think buying a pattern is the same as sewing it. mssewcrazy

  2. Aha! That's a much better way of sewing the neckline! Yours sits so much better too. Thanks for the instructions. I might even try this pattern now. Might. :)

    I like your new top and skirt too!

    Time for me to hit my sewing room after watching the swimming. Great race by Phelps! I'm not going to get much sewing done these next two weeks. :/

  3. The top turned out great (and so did Zillie's dickey). But I really like the bands in the skirt. There are so many things out these days with contrast bands, and they really change the look of the outfit! Another really nice outfit!

  4. This is a beautiful combo! And your skirt solution works great with the top!

  5. aha! so i *was* right. in the back of my head, i've been toying around with drafting my own version of this top using the ottobre tee as a starting point. i have not seen one of these tops in person, so i've been trying to figure out the "engineering" on it. based on your photos, i was right. :) not sure if i'll get around to actually making one, but the puzzle solver in me likes knowing how it fits together.


  6. Now that is a lovely outfit!!

  7. Thanks for the tutorial, this top is on my shortlist of things to do.
    I'm going to have to make another muslin, my muslin didn't fit nearly as well as yours does on Zillie.
    And I love the contrast you used for this fabric. I couldn't find anything that looked good when I was sewing mine.

  8. This is so brilliant! What a great way to sew this neckline. The outfit is great too. You didn't do an fba for this top? It looks great.

  9. Awesome outfit. I like the way the top looks on your dressform. You are right it looks skin colored. For a minute there I thought it was you and you had found a way to take some funky angle shots!

  10. Like Linda, I thought the first 2 photos WERE you! And the schematic of skirt options -- how did you do that? Very cool! I don't have this pattern, and by the time I would get it and get around to making it, it'll probably be out of style, but middle dd just bought one like it.

  11. Cool top. The vertical match of the pattern on the foldover is perfect. The skirt looks great, too. The band matching the top trim really ties the two together. Thanks for the binder tip on knits that curl. I'll remember that. (I'm still pretending that I can remember things longer than five minutes.)

  12. This was most helpful. I have bookmarked this as I plan to make another one of these tops and handtacking, especially my handtacking, is not a good way to secure the foldover.

    I really like this top with the skirt also!

  13. Lovely top.
    I do have this pattern and have not yet made this version, so I'm really happy with your instructions.

  14. Great tutorial - your top and skirt look awesome. Thanks for sharing your tips!

  15. Just wanted to say a big Thank You for posting how you did the front pleat on this pattern. I used your instructions the other night, and the top went together in a snap. Thank You!


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