Jalie 2806

Looking at these pics, the makeshift dickey/cover I made for Zillie so the contrast binding of the shirt would show looks eerily like real skin. Weird. But anyway …

The top is done, and an explanation for securing the foldover by machine is below.



I added the hem band to this one because …



… I made a skirt to wear with it.



It's my TNT Kwik Sew 3287, with a sewn-in contrast band added. I'll take some pics of me wearing these in a day or so. Today is so not a photo day.



I was doodling with ideas to try to work in the solid brown contrast, because I wanted to break up the print and tie in to the neckline binding on the top. The others were just too much.



Here's my pattern pieces with the back neckline reshaped, which I also blended into the front neckline.



So, here's how I did the neckline. First, I bound the neckline with my coverstitch machine. I clipped a bit further than the Jalie instructions because I wanted to be sure the foldover would be clear of the machine foot when I was stitching the binding. It left a little "hole" which is OK because it's about to be covered up. The wrong side of the fabric you see below is the foldover moved out of the way to take this pic, with a piece of paper under it for contrast.



Here's the foldover with the basting stitches in place and pulled to create the gathers. Once I had the gathers drawn up, I overcast the end of the foldover with my serger to hold the bottom edges together, which makes them easier to catch in the stitching that comes next. I then pinned the foldover in place on the neckline. (By the way, I placed the gathering stitches more toward the end of the foldover than the Jalie instructions show. If you follow the Jalie illustrations, they will show at the neck edge but I wanted to leave the stitches in place to hold the gathers so I moved them.)



It's now folded over to the wrong side and held by pins.



Here, the foldover is moved a bit so you can see the pins. Note that the pins do NOT go through the foldover at all. The back side of the foldover is pinned to the "middle" layer only.



To secure the foldover by machine, push the foldover out of the way and sew from the vertical CF stitch line out to the edge of the foldover. My stitching is about 7/8" long …



… and is highlighted in red below.



Push the foldover out of the way in the other direction and sew this side, as shown in red.



This is what it looks like from the wrong side. The foldover is NOT sewn all the way across. The red lines show the two separate stitch lines. They almost meet, but not quite.



You can also see that my coverstitching doesn't cover the edge of the binding on the back side. The knit I used likes to curl and I find it behaves better if I have the binder set so the bottom is a bit wider than the top.