Sunday, July 8, 2012

McCall's 6397: The muslin

I went with this one, mostly because I thought the fabric I'm planning to use is better suited for a more closely fitted style. I still like the Vogue 8764 dress and will keep it on my short list, especially after reading Carolyn's review and revisiting her make. I forgot that was the pattern she used for her ponte knit colorblocked dress and I may just have to steal her idea use hers as inspiration.

I'm making the view with the front pockets and scoop neckline but I used the plain front piece for my muslin because it's easier. You know I'm all about the easy. ;-)

Overall, the muslin is pretty good. I need a few tweaks but nothing major. I cut the 16 for the bodice and blended to the 20 for the hips/skirt section. The hips are snug, but my fabric will be a stretch woven and not the sheet I'm using for my muslin and I think it will stretch out with wear so I'm going to keep the fit on the snug side of things. The neckline and armholes will need to be raised. They are good here, but that's with the seam allowances still in place. I don't think I will add the lining (too hot) so I will just finish the edges with stitched-down bias facings. This will also allow me to snug things in a bit too, which will eliminate the hint of gaposis I'm seeing.

This is a multi-cup size pattern and I have to say I'm not particularly thrilled with it in D cup size. White it technically fits, the darts are way too wide to end smoothly in the distance given. Can you see the puckers at the dart apexes (apexi?) in the pic below? (And how 'bout that jazz hand??) I think I really should take the time and rotate some of the underbust dart to an added side dart. I'm also going to need to take out a tuck at the upper back for my erect posture and I did make a square shoulder adjustment as I was cutting the tissue. Really, though, not too many fit issues for a woven pattern. I know I've been sliding my way through fitting lately with all the knits and I was a little worried I'd have to get all slash and spread on this one.

That's it for now. I'm know I won't finish the real dress tomorrow, but I'm hoping to get an early start and at least make some good progress. If this turns out like I'm thinking it will, I will wear it a lot this summer.


  1. Okay this will be an interesting make to watch! Now about that shoe issue...these are not the shoes I will wear with that dress. They are a pair of slingbacks that were home. I plan on wearing these with a pair of patent leather nude heels that are presently residing behind my desk at therefore no shoe love! *LOL* Now you know I show my new shoes...just ain't bought any lately!

  2. That dress has some very nice style lines. Very nice!

  3. All that's wrong with these darts is that they need to be a tad wider apart, ie truly below your bust, and also shorter. The pucker just means you're trying for a Gaultier effect on a non-conical breast :-).

  4. Wow! You're fast. Got your muslin done up already. It's going to be such a nice dress.

  5. When you make the bust dart, what will determine the angle of the line from the side seam to the bust apex? Should the line be perpendicular to the grainline, or should the angle of the line begin much lower on the side seam?

  6. That looks better than I would have thought from the pattern photo! I tend to avoid fitted dresses because I have to grade up a size between the top and bottom and it never looks right.

    Those cup size patterns are apparently a real hit and miss, huh? I'm a member of the IBTC and wish they'd offer separate patterns for A and B cup but it's not likely to happen anytime soon.

  7. Super dress! I must say, you look so skinny! What an inspiration. I'm gonna go exercise now... cheap prom dresses


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