This dress is on hold for the moment. I finished the pattern alterations and made a muslin yesterday (two actually) and I think the fit/style is OK. But there are other problems. First, I'm going to want to make the dress longer than the pattern's length and the layout will now exceed my 2 yds of fabric (by only about 6 inches!), and second, I'm not thrilled with how it looks under the brown jacket. With the gathers under the yoke, I think it's too puffy for this fitted jacket. I'm also thinking of rotating some of the bust dart *back* to the side and just sewing a dart so that there's not quite so much gathering. In muslin, it looks like a nightgown, doesn't it? ;-)
So, I'm moving on to Plan B and making a skirt from the lining leftovers from one of my TNT Kwik Sew skirt patterns. I think. I also have another untried skirt pattern that's a good candidate.
I'll return to the dress with another fabric, after a look through the stash or some shopping if the stash is uncooperative.
I just picked up this pattern yesterday and I LOVE it!!! Sorry you are having trouble with it but yes you are right, the muslin looks nightgown-ish.
ReplyDeleteAs to the nightgown-ish look, it is a very plain fabric; however, I think you are correct about rotating part of the fullness into a side dart, perhaps a french dart, which is a bit more elegant. The pattern is delightful, and I may give it a second look.
ReplyDeleteWhew, I'm so glad to hear this. My own personal taste of course, but those gathers above the bust like that just don't look like "office-wear" or even "flattering dress" to me.
ReplyDeleteMaybe it's exactly because it does look slightly nightgown-ish, but I think also it just might not be the best look for women who need to do FBA. I think you'll be doing yourself big favors to rotate some of that fullness to darts.
Marji said exactly what I was thinking. The jacket looks perfect for office wear, make something with a nice silhouette to go under it. And congrats on you first jacket, it looks beautiful and the lining is so lovely.
ReplyDeleteNot that I'm anywhere close to knowing about these things, but I concur with the others that rotating to a side dart would help, and I agree with patsijean that a the french dart would be lovely. I too was surprised that that jacket was the first "lined jacket" you've made. It just goes to show that some people are experts in certain areas, and novices in others. The fit tips, and the knit garments that you churn out arte awe inspiring, so I guess I just assumed you could do all things, but on reading your thoughts on it, I agree, there are just SO MANY things to learn/do/accomplish.
ReplyDeleteAlthough in the past I have lined some jackets and played with some tailoring, I didn't know squat about serious fitting issues other than whether the jacket would button or final fitting the scads of daughters prom and wedding dresses by taking in the seams here and there. Debbie I have learned more from you than scads of fitting books when it comes to real fit issues like fbas and such.I have become so fit obsessed now that after seeing some of your muslin techniques I am feeling that I can sew for me once again and that it is ok to sew for me and not wait until I lose the padding.
ReplyDeleteSorry about the fabric shortage for your project. Perhaps you could combine the leftovers with another fabric or bias bindings to get the coordinating shell for your suit- just a thought.mssewcrazy
Debbie, I agree with you. I have found that large chesties like us do better with less gathering above the chest. Leaving a little bit as an accent and having the bulk of your dart shaping in a side dart is an excellent idea. In fact, I will remember that when I get this pattern. I loved it from the minute I saw it on your blog, but my local JoAnn's doesn't have it yet.
ReplyDeleteIt will be interested to see the final dress if you do decide to proceed.
Okay, I'm not a fitting goddess and I've never made a muslin of a dress so if I'm saying something really stupid, please be kind when telling me. But aside from the gathers, what really bothers me about the dress are those diagonal lines running from the outside of the bust down the full length of the dress to the center front hem.
ReplyDeleteWhat's causing those? Is there a way to get rid of them? Those are what's making the dress look like one of my grandmother's nightgowns.
I will chime in with Marji. Too much emphasis on the girls. To much fabric adds inches. I do think that a more fitted look does better under a jacket. Rotating back into a dart seems like a possibility.
ReplyDeleteAnother thought. You look much more slender in that coral blouse you made than in this. I always feel thinner in clothes that skim the body and don't hang from my DD girls.
ReplyDelete