Again, here's the muslin:
A close-up shows some of the oddities. The biggest problems are that the shoulders are two different sizes and shapes and the way the dress is pulled when it's tied makes the armholes behave differently. On one side (your left), the underarm is really low and shows the bra, even worse than what this photo shows since I've actually got a tank on under this muslin. On the other side (your right), the strap wants to slide off my shoulder and my beige bra strap is showing.
I thought I could simply fold the pattern over itself and trace one armhole/shoulder to get two that matched. As I said earlier, I was wrong.The way the dress pulls, the armholes actually have to be different so they appear the same when worn. So, I raised the armhole on your left and filled it in where my bra was showing, and I made both shoulder seams the same length because while the two different shaped armholes *may* be an actual design necessity (I'm still not sure on this one), the fact that one front was a good 1/2" longer than the back shoulder seam is simply a drafting error.
With that done, I cut #2. And cursed myself for choosing this crappy rayon knit. I know both Fabric.com and Fabric Mart have been selling these prints like crazy, but they really are not the best quality.
As you can sort of see in the pic below, the neckline is too big and is now folded over and pinned, until I decide what I'm going to do with it. I'm tempted to just throw it away. I bound the neckline and armholes on my CS machine. That went OK, but too bad the neckline is too big.
Here's the other problem with the pattern. It rides up one hip because of the tie in front pulling everything in weird directions. As you can see, the pattern is also not very friendly to linear prints in the back since the CB seam is shaped and you cannot match motifs all the way down.
Here's version #3, which has all the pattern corrections I'm going to make on this one. I used an ITY knit that I've had in the stash for a while, unloved, since I'm not really a "blue" person. But the print has grown on me, and it's OK for summer casual. I think this is the dress I will wear on my sister's boat next weekend.
The back still doesn't match up perfectly, and never will, but it's much better than the #2 version and isn't quite so glaring.The ITY has more recovery and the back doesn't ride up as quickly, but it does still ride up so it' a dress that needs regular adjustment. I also used clear elastic on the neckline and armholes, which I think is helping to keep things in place better than the versions without it. I ZZ'd it onto the wrong side and then turned under a 3/8" hem and coverstitched.
I narrowed the neckline by making at tuck at the center of the neckline, which, yes, is off to the right of the pattern like it looks here. On the back piece (not shown), I cut the CB seam about 3/4" deeper, starting from the neckline and tapering to nothing over about 6 inches.
If you look carefully, you can see the different adjustments to each armhole and the different shapes of the straps. Even though one is included, I cannot believe a sleeve will work with this and if you look at the pattern illustration, the sleeved views are drawings only — not modeled by a human.
A more careful look at the pattern photo shows exactly the problems I encountered, but they are easy to miss when you are trusting an envelope and are intrigued by an unusual style. The green line divides the model in half, but look at how weird and uneven the neckline and shoulders sit on her now that I'm pointing it out.
I'm really disappointed with this pattern because I like the idea of it and it looks good on me! I have ideas of better ways to execute the design and I may try it out one day, but for now, I'm moving on.
Okay, I'll be the first to say it. The first version looks fantastic on you. Yeah, it pulls, and yeah, you might think it's weird in where it hits, but it looks great. Seriously :)
ReplyDeleteI've noticed recently that BMV patterns are running quite large in the upper chest and shoulders. I'm not sure why that is, but I think it's showing up on this pattern, too. I've had to go down two sizes in the shoulder and work from there.
Wow...that was a lot of work for you! But, your last dress turned out great, and looks very nice on you. I have a dress that I have to constantly adjust when I wear it, and it is a pain in the neck! Thanks for walking us through your modifications...ie...fixing their mistakes.
ReplyDeletePersonally, I think the third dress is fantastic; the way that the pattern falls with the twist makes it intriguing. I, too, have noticed some oddities with McCall's patterns! I recently attempted a shirt for my son off of a McCall's pattern, but it was just ... goofy. Thank you for this review!
ReplyDeleteI like the third version on you too! You can definitely see the weight loss in that dress. This is an interesting dress not exactly my taste but it works on and for you!
ReplyDeleteI also think the third dress looks lovely on you, but I also get the fact that you don't want to be adusting all day. You certainly have got a fantastic figure in this dress - good on you for your fabulous weight loss!!
ReplyDeleteI think version one looks very sexy on you, but agree #3 is a much better fit. Congratulations on your weight loss you look great!
ReplyDeleteDebbie, please revisit this pattern some time, it really does look good on you. LauraUK
ReplyDeleteI think all of the dresses look really good on you, don't toss them without trying them. The different sized parts don't really show that much either...
ReplyDeleteWow! This is a fantastic dress! I really, really like version 3..that print goes perfectly with the pattern! So lovely and well worth the pain of alterations!
ReplyDeleteI am so impressed with your ability and willingness to take a good look at the fit and analyse a pattern to work out where it needs improving. I think that all three dresses look good --and you are looking very wonderful in them - but the third one is especially fabulous. It may be coincidence but I had a problem with a `McCalls knit dress pattern recently - I think it had some odd drafting problems. I have worn the dress but I really want to try and fix it before I wear it again.
ReplyDeleteI also agree all three dresses are flattering on you. However, I see the issues drastically in #2. #3 looks great and the print is perfect for it. Thanks for the review, I would've contributed the quirkiness to my constantly changing body.
ReplyDeleteWhat a pain! But seriously, the third version looks great on you!
ReplyDeleteDebbie:
ReplyDeleteI am intrigued on how the dress ties to create the gathers. Can you please explain those mechanics? THANKS
Lynn
You did a fantastic job on figuring out and correcting the pattern errors. I would make another muslin, from the bust up, starting with a smaller size.
ReplyDeleteI think the first (muslin) and the third are great on you. I admire your tenacity. :-)
ReplyDeleteThe third dress looks great. Thanks for sharing you alterations, it is a learning experience and it also increase our awareness that some patterns are poorly drafted.
ReplyDeleteI think that last dress would make a good work or interview dress with the right jacket. Thanks for working out the kinks for us!
ReplyDeleteNo one can say you did not beat this thing into submission. The last version of the dress is such a HUGE improvement on the first two. But NO ONE should have to do this amount of work to make a pattern work.
ReplyDeleteYou are rocking that third version. The pattern is so flattering and your figure looks amazing! Too bad the pattern was a dud, but you made it work!
ReplyDeleteRegardless of all the issue, this is a very flattering dress on you girl! It really shows off your weight loss and I love the lines of this. The front is definitely better than the back as you pointed out, but you know what, it still looks good on you.
ReplyDeleteI agree with everyone, that third dress looks fabulous on you, and it was worth it to make that pattern work!
ReplyDeleteI know what you mean sometimes, though, I don't feel like I should have to do that much work to fix all of their mistakes. I still get frustrated with fitting alone, and if I'm doing fitting plus fixing pattern goofs? AARGH.
No. 3 looks lovely on you. I love this style, too, but it just goes to show that you always need to do a muslin and then the final dress. I don't usually do muslins unless it's a a really expensive fabric I am using but this tells me I need to do muslins of everything! I haven't sewn in about 2-3 years but your blog is inspiring me to start sewing again :)
ReplyDeleteAre BMV now all one company? A few years ago it was Butterick/Vogue as one company and McCalls was separate. Are they, too, now owned by Vogue? I assume this means they use the same sloper pattern, too, or am I wrong?
ReplyDeleteBy the way, I can certainly see you've lost a lot of weight. You are looking terrific!
ReplyDeleteMy opinion only (and we know how opinions are! LOL) that 3rd version is smashing! The color, the design, etc. It's very flattering. Wear it proudly!
ReplyDeleteI also agree with the others who say that all three versions are wearable, and that this style looks so good on you! You've certainly worked out all the bugs on it by now, so you should reap the benefits of all your hard work, Debbie. Give the dresses a chance. You may grow to love them :)
ReplyDeleteI think the style is great on you. D#3 is a winner. I admire your tenacity. I would have tossed it long ago. The dress does look good on you.
ReplyDeleteThird time a charm, the first 2 are wadders. Have fun on the boat.
ReplyDeleteI love both first and 3rd versions. I couldn't get past the print of Version #2. Maybe they need time in the magic closet before you'll like them as well.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the info about the clear elastic. Like GorgeousThings, I've found most of my recent patterns to be far to wide in the shoulders. Like they've changed their sloper. I'm using the fix of running a little round-elastic in the neckline to snug the neckline after the fact. But I really need a way to detect and fix before cutting.
I admire your tenacity in working with this pattern. You look great wearing Version #3!
ReplyDeleteThat was a lot of work! The last version looks pretty good, and hopefully will wear well for you on the boat.
ReplyDeleteIt's good to know the rayon knits on the fabric sites aren't so wonderful. I'll save my $$.
Debbie, you look fantastic. And, you are rocking the heck out of the blue. I LOVE that print.
ReplyDeleteI think these look good on you--especially #3, but this just seems like so much work for a simple knit dress. I liked this one in the catalogue, but from your warnings, I think I'll skip adding it to my stash. There are too many other knit dress patterns out there that don't require multiple muslins to get a decent-looking dress.
ReplyDeletegood adjustments...and gotta say, all your hard work paid off. Version #3 is awesome. Actually it's a very flattering style...too bad the pattern wasn't a bit more user-friendly!
ReplyDeleteI tried on a very similar RTW maternity dress like this and that pull to the side was just so funky. Even with the headaches, probably easier to make one like this so you can tweak it to make it fit well.
ReplyDeleteI know you are frustrated, but I really, really like the 3rd one on you. Great print and it shows off your curves very well. :)
I'm sad that you're not as impressed with the fabric.com studio style jersey. I just made a dress from a piece of it and thought it was nice and buttery and was fairly substantial. :/