Friday, July 22, 2011

HotPatterns 1120: An Expensive Muslin


I'm SO MAD at myself I almost can't type this! I have searched high and low and I can't find one half of the skirt back, which I know I cut out. So I've come to the only logical conclusion I can come up with and it's that I cut one of the pocket lining pieces from that skirt piece. I've never done this before, so I guess it was my turn. Arghhhhh! So much for taking the dress on my trip.

I immediately checked Gorgeous Fabrics to see if Ann had any of this fabric left, which she did. And then I spent an hour debating whether I was willing to put another $20 into this dress (fabric + shipping). Part of the reason for my internal debate is that buying more fabric will bring the dress total to over $60, but mostly I debated because there are fitting issues that could've been sussed out in an ACTUAL muslin, but I was too lazy to make one. Did you hear read that, Diane??

I finally caved and decided to buy the additional fabric. Ann is generously holding it for me until after I get back from my trip so I can buy more to justify the shipping. What? That's a good excuse, isn't it?

While the dress is in limbo, I'll go over some of the potential problems I encountered. Every one of these could have been caught if I had made the muslin Trudy so strongly suggested in the YouTube video for this pattern. In other words, it's not the pattern's fault, it's mine.

First, as Linda warned in the comments yesterday, the vee neckline is *very* low. Think Burda plunge. Because I can't sew the skirt on yet, I'm not sure if this is going to be bra-baring low on me. If it is, you will either see a fabric flower at the cleavage or I'll add something (neckband, modesty panel, binding, trim, something).


Next, the front facing looks like it might want to roll outward. I'm pretty sure once the skirt is attached, that will weigh things down and it will be fine — especially since it was improved with me just pinning the front skirt piece on. I gotta say I'm not a fan of facings, though, especially in knits, which this fabric is. When I make this dress again, I'm going to have to rethink the facings.


Overall, it's simply too big at the neckline. I cut a straight 18 with no adjustments. I should have gone way, way, WAY smaller in the neckline. Again, a muslin would've alerted me to this. I will fix it on this dress by just taking a deeper seam at the CB neck …


… this much deeper:


I need to remember this about Hot Patterns necklines and me because I've run into this before.

Lastly, it's going to be too short for my preference. The pattern states "knee length" and it is. I had already added one inch but I don't think that will be enough. I think I'm going to use the leftover border from the print to add a band around the bottom.

This is the skirt front just loosely pinned in place.

I need to work on the USMC purse this weekend, but I really want a new dress! I might just see if I can sneak in a quick TNT as a palate cleanser.

* * * * *

The WINNER from the July 15, 2011 Giveaway (Amy Butler's Style Stitches) is:



Congratulations JillyP! Please contact me at djc at cedesign dot com with your mailing info no later than Wednesday, July 26, 2011 (after all Winners have been announced, in case of duplicates). If I don't hear from you by then, I will draw another number/name.

Fourkid, I'm still waiting to hear from you from yesterday's Winner announcement …

Fine print: For all the Giveaways last week and this week, each entrant can only win once and in the case of duplicates, I'll contact you for your choice and then draw again randomly on what's left. Clear? And if you do enter, please check back over the next two weeks to see who won because if I don't hear from you within a few days after announcing winners, I'll draw/decide again. Again, anyone anywhere can enter this or any Giveaway which is still open.

25 comments:

  1. Oh and this fabric is so lovely too. I don't know if this will help and I do mean to be helpful not critical. With my own dressform I've marked right on the cover, where my bra line is and the necklines of my favorite tops. There is still room for error such as when the fabric is weighty enough to drag the neckline down but the lines I've added really helped me avoid this problem. I pin the tissue together and check it against the dressform.

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  2. I just *love* the usage of the border print on that dress. Completely worth buying another yard.

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  3. It's totally worth the few extra bucks--it's beautiful fabric, and I know you can solve all the potential fitting issues with dress.

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  4. WOW! That's a lotta ease in the back neckline. It's going to look great when you're done.

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  5. Oh, my heart goes out to you. What a setback. But getting additional fabric will be worth it. The fabric is gorgeous and looks really good, so far, in that pattern.

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  6. I love how you worked the border on this, very pretty hourglass! I think buying more fabric was the right choice. This will be gorgeous when done.

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  7. Sorry to hear about your setback, but thanks for posting about the neckline. I am forever lowering necklines (I'm super tall - maybe that's why?) and I was wondering about this one. I'm looking for a maxi dress pattern with sleeves that doesn't have an under-bust seam requiring a complicated FBA. This might be the pattern for me!

    The dress is going to look great when it's finally done!

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  8. I think that buying more fabric was the right choice too. Your layout of the border print is striking and I think that it will be very flattering when you get it done. BTW, I did the same thing a few months ago, cutting into the back of a top some small piece. PITA

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  9. Oh no!!! I hate it when things like that happen! Especially losing a piece of fabric. If it makes you feel better I hardly ever make muslins even though I probably should. Well, it will be fabulous when it is finished! And the fabric is TOTALLY worth it....so lovely!

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  10. I love that fabric, good thing you can get more. I had to laugh at the dunce picture, I can totally relate, for a minute I thought that was me sitting in that corner. It's going to be a nice dress when you are done so it's worth it.

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  11. The way you've placed the border print is going to make the finished dress completely fabulous. I think it will be worth the extra money.

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  12. Ann - yes, it's a big adjustment but that's mostly because it's all on the back because I don't really have a choice. If I were able to split it between front and back, it would be more reasonable.

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  13. Very nice layout on the print, and a very pretty fabric. It's pretty enough to spend the extra $$.
    I've found that HP's are too generous in the neckline for me as well.

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  14. How frustrating! But it IS a gorgeous fabric and you used the print perfectly. I can't wait to see it finished.

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  15. Ugh! I hate it when these things happen. It's so annoying and frustrating you want to scream. Oh that's right you did scream because I heard you from here. :)

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  16. Necklines sewn or rtw have always plagued me at times-it is such a pain to get a beautiful thing like this worked up and there is that pesky open or too deep neck. I also sympathize with the missing cut piece. I think sooner or later it happens to everyone and it's such a v-8 slap on the head moment. The dunce cap photo is so memorable and I got a big chuckle out of it. Don't worry about the new dress for the trip-you've got such cute things and at the rate you are going losing weight you better be wearing them. I hope you have a fun getaway. mssewcrazy

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  17. Hi Debbie, I LOVE this dress..glad you decided to get the extra fabric..You are a FABULOUS seamstress..could teach me a thing or two or ten!

    Have a great weekend!
    Barb

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  18. i think you'll find the facings are fine, once you finish it. the front is caught in the waistline seam, and i tacked the back at the CB seam. the sleeves are a bit odd, but you can tack the facings at the armholes, and it keeps it in place really well. i'll get mine back on the 15th, and in all likelihood, send it on to stacy s. i do plan to try it again, but will do a muslin first.

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  19. I hope you can make this work because the way you've used this print is just awesome! It will be an amazing dress when completed so please don't give up. This is the kind of look that I have to live vicariously through you since the print is a little too much for me for work...but just the kind of dress I love!

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  20. You're probably one of the best "make lemonade out of lemons" seamstresses I've seen, so I'm going to add my voice to the chorus saying more fabric was a good idea. This dress does look like it will be very pretty once finished. I don't think $60 is unreasonable to pay for a dress that fits you well, since you'll get a good deal of use out of it.

    I've never accidentally reused a piece, but I'm sure it's just a matter of time. However, I've run out of fabric halfway through a project before and had to order more. Very aggravating!

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  21. You're probably one of the best "make lemonade out of lemons" seamstresses I've seen, so I'm going to add my voice to the chorus saying more fabric was a good idea. This dress does look like it will be very pretty once finished. I don't think $60 is unreasonable to pay for a dress that fits you well, since you'll get a good deal of use out of it.

    I've never accidentally reused a piece, but I'm sure it's just a matter of time. However, I've run out of fabric halfway through a project before and had to order more. Very aggravating!

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  22. I feel your pain. I haven't done that particular error, but I am always doing something similar. Tis week I resewed a seam to let it out and then proceeded to pick out the correct, new seam I had just put in!
    This dress will be beautiful! You did the right thing.

    I was out of town for two days and just saw I won the vintage package! THANK YOU! I just e-mailed my info.
    Blessings,
    Patti

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  23. I know I've thrown an essential piece out with the remnants before - so annoying!
    Great job with the print placement - definitely worth ordering more fabric for!
    Re the neckline, sometimes I fuse the facing with a lightweight knit, but against the stretch - not sure if that would help or not but thought it worth a mention!

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  24. Ouch! I haven't "double cut" a piece of fabric before, but did have a very unfortunate experience with a rotary cutter recently. Not fun, but you saved the day. Add me to the growing list of people that think the extra fabric purchase will be worth it. I love your layout and you'll great in these colors.
    Donna

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  25. I just ditched mine, did not make a muslin, used the good silk....
    The neckline is enormous but the strangest thing is that the back is almost 2 inches longer than the front and even if I only has a B-cup it still pulls the front up a little more.
    I could not find a measurement on how long the dress was so I added some but since the front is smaller than the back I don´t think I have enought fabric to hem either.
    I have no problem with the facing like you have.

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Thank you for each and every comment. I appreciate them all, but I have to be honest and let you know that I'm usually bad about answering questions. I hope you understand that there just isn't enough time in the day to do everything I want to do.

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