Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Testing Day

The knit for Simplicity 3506 is now a muslin/wadder, which isn't breaking my heart or anything. What you see here was to be the lining. I goofed when cutting so both lining and outer layer are trashed. I think I like the style overall, but it needs some tweaking. It's generally just too wide at the shoulders/neckline. I decided to let it percolate in my brain while I worked on the Butterick 4877 skirt instead.

For the skirt, I first made a muslin with no pattern alterations to see what was what. Two pieces to cut out and sew went very quickly. I left off the facings and bottom pleated section from the trials. The first muslin told me I'd need my usual fixes.

The back pattern piece is on the left, the front is on the right. The waist circumference fits perfectly but I needed to shorten the overall CF length for my tilted waist. If I just cut the pattern off at the top, I'd have to redo the darts and then adjust the facings to match. Instead, I slashed and overlapped below the darts and below where the facing will end (you can see the overlap just under the "3"). For the back, I had to do the opposite and spread the pattern to go over the extra caboose terrain (you can see that alteration under the "1"). I also decided that I wanted the upper section to be longer so it wouldn't cut me at mid-thigh and so I added 1" to both front and back at the lengthen lines. (That addition looks uneven in this photo but it isn't.)

I made a second muslin and I think it fits perfectly now. I'm waiting for the new brown fabric to dry so I can cut out the skirt.

Speaking of the fabric, I think I'm going to pass on buying more since I don't need another brown jacket at the moment. I hope I don't kick myself later. ;-)


  1. Thanks for showing the alterations on the skirt. I have a full backside and my RTW skirts hangs low in the front and high in the back. The first method you stated was the one I used for an elastic skirt and it worked well. I'm glad you showed the method you used when working with darts. Is it safe to say that you have the same problems as I do with RTW skirts and that is why you stated that you have a tilted waist?

  2. Charlene, Because of tummy fluff, where I like waistbands to sit is actually lower in front than in back. This makes for skirts that angle out at the back and a sideseam that doesn't hang straight to to the floor unless I remove the extra front length. I also have high hip fluff and need extra length in the back for that. You would do a similar alteration for a full backside.


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