I guess I just needed a long weekend to putter around and veg out. Until last night, I just wasn't very enthused about working on the jacket even though I haven't lost any desire to have it finished and be wearing it. But at the end of the evening, with DH and the boys back home and settled in, I started thinking about the jacket alterations and how I was going to do them, and before I knew it, I couldn't wait to get started this morning.
I cut out the STP pattern pieces and started pin fitting the body sections on Zillie. She's not exactly my clone but close enough to give me a really good indication of what's needed. I know that if I had a body duplicate, I'd never have to pin fit on myself again ... it's so much easier and comes so naturally to pin, tuck, let out, etc. with the "fabric" (paper) draped before me instead of on me. But I just can't see DH doing a good job of duplicating me. Sigh.
Anyway …
I definitely will need about a 3/4 to 1" FBA judging by the gap created when unpinning the princess seam. The gap looks wider in the pic, but the paper is drooping. I'm also seeing a bit of extra length from shoulder to bust/waist both front and back so I'll fold that out at the armhole level. Since I regularly add a square shoulder adjustment, which means raising the armhole to match, a tuck at the armhole should kill two birds/boobs with one stone.
I need to add some width/ease across the back and also take out some shoulder to waist length as mentioned above. The pinned pattern is hanging a bit crooked at the upper back because I didn't notch the seam allowance for the neckline and that extra length is poofing outward. I also need to add some width at hip level, both at the sideseam (see sideseam pic below) and a slash/spread over the bum. Nothing unexpected there either. Unfortunately. ;-)
I'm going to make some initial adjustments to the pattern pieces and then cut my first muslin. Yes, I said first. I'm sure I'll be doing more than one. But that's OK, as long as the mojo holds out. I definitely need to try on a muslin over a real top because paper over Zillie's thin knit cami isn't a good model for jacket ease.
Note to self: Sewing that lapel in denim ought to be interesting … with that yoke seam bisecting the underside.
Debbie, thanks for continuing to blog. I am along for the ride and can't wait to see how you construct this jacket. Your blog is great.
ReplyDeleteCan't wait to see your jacket!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the advice on my pants, Debbie! What you said made sense considering how they feel on me ... can't wait to see the first version of this jacket. I like the unique lines on it.
ReplyDeleteDebbie, glad the MOJO is back; could you send some my way. I'm still in the sluggish mode! I know your jacket will be super!
ReplyDeleteIs that a teeny swayback tuck that's needed? I can't tell from the s/a and the tissue too well.
ReplyDeleteHEY how 'bout another idea on killing two birds with one stone. What if Candyo and you make DTD? Is she close by? As the Queen of FBA Know-How, she really needs your help too. Both of you could use a nifty DTD. Rusty Bobbin used some very inenius materials and reported on it on her blog recently. Check it out!
Debbie, you are so bad! I already had the fabric you showed and immediately lusted after the others and they still had some. So I ended up with 11 fabrics for knit tops and capri pants. I live in Texas so winter is right now and summer will probably be here in 3 weeks. I'm thinking I need to rent a PO box so my dh doesn't see everything coming in. I read your blog just after visiting Emmaonesock and you can guess what happened there. I always enjoy your writing and your pictures,so thanks for doing that, even of you are feeding my addiction.
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