I've sewn the sleeve in and it's a keeper. The only changes I still need to make are (1) to shorten the sleeve about 3/4" above the elbow (already tested with a pinned tuck) and (2) to narrow the shoulders a little bit more. In the pic below, I had already narrowed it by 1/2". I think I need 1/4" to 3/8" more. I'm confident in these changes so I'll just transfer them to the pattern pieces and cut the final fabric next.
The sleeve & armhole notches/marks/landmarks lined up very well, except for the back arm seam. It's supposed to hit below the yoke but mine doesn't. I've decided it never will because of my square shoulder alteration, which adds fabric above that landmark. The sleeve fits well and looks good and that's what matters.
This last pic is of the muslin with the undercollar sewn on to test my notched collar skills (cough, cough) and to see the whole effect. I'm getting too used to these lapels with seam allowances still showing so the actual lapel width is probably going to look too narrow to me. I think I'll sew the width wider than the pattern dictates because I do like that wider look.
I'm off to watch some football in between transferring all of the last tweaks to my pattern pieces. Go Saints! Although I like the Bears too, so I'll be happy either way.
Debra, I have followed along with your jacket alterations. I am fascinated with how you achieved shuch a great fit. I, too, would have to alter the daylights out of this pattern so it has been an educaiton for me to watch. We have many of the same fitting challenges. Great job. Keep posting so I can keep on learning:)
ReplyDeleteAnne Szabo
anneszabo@yahoo.com
Your jacket is shaping up VERY WELL! I love watching you! It's a sneak peak into your home/sewing life. Cool!
ReplyDeleteKeep at it...
It's looking rather good ;)
ReplyDeleteI think this version looks great. Can't wait to see the "real thing."
ReplyDeleteThis fits you very nicely. I think you have a keeper. Do you have back issues of Threads? The 96december/January 97 has a fantastic article "The Foolproof Notched Collar by Jan Schoen. I always use it for notched collars and they are perfect first time out, not ripping!
ReplyDeleteNancy,
ReplyDeleteThank you for the hint, but I don't think I have that issue ... do you know the number? I do have another good source for the collar, though ... Jackets for Real People, Palmer/Pletsch. I think that will be enough for me to get it done.
Debbie, it's looking really good. I can't wait to see the real version. Thanks for all the good info and pictures.
ReplyDeleteWow, it looks sharp--too good to cut the bait. Is that a tiny pouf above the bust point on you? Zillie wears it perfectly. I like your idea on cutting the shoulders wider. Have you decided about the flapped breast pockets?
ReplyDeleteDebbie,
ReplyDeleteThat's *excellent* work. The fit is just beautiful and the jacket will look so good on you.