Until then, I've continued deconstructing my husband's RTW shirt. Tanit-Isis left a comment on my last post asking for an inside view of the RTW placket before I ripped it apart. No problemo. ;-)
To refresh, this is the finished RTW placket from the outside, public view:
And here is what it looks like on the reverse:
The placket piece itself is 2-1/2" wide and the finished width is a hair under 1".
As you can see below, the slash for the placket is trimmed down to 1/4" seam allowances. This construction method actually differs from Sommerset's method that I linked to last post, and is instead …
… the method shown in Nancy Zieman's Sewing Express.
This book comes from my mom's sewing library, but she gave it to me 8-9 years ago when I first picked up sewing as an obsession instead of a chore. 
If you click on the pic below, it should open full-size. (BTW, I recommend this book for other timesavers too. It's got a lot of good tips. Not sure why mom gave it away, but I'm not complaining.)
Over the weekend, I'm hoping to get the pattern adjusted for this new-ish Butterick pattern, and maybe even get a fast muslin done. But I also have some work and household errands, so we'll see where I end up.
I really like to see how the rtw is done and compare but often forget so thanks for showing this and the book. I have that book on my shelf if I can find it for the animal hair and dust(sigh). I have been admiring these type of plackets and also the shirts you all are muslining and sewing up. Now I know where the directions are for doing one. I've enjoyed reading the posts about the marine son-really really loved the photo of him and the dog. mssewcrazy
ReplyDeleteThank you! It is interesting to see this (which I had kinda mentally filed as a home/cheater method ;) ) on RTW. Sad to realize I'm still holding RTW up as the "right way" to do it. It does, also, confirm that my hubby's storebought shirts are definitely made with the little-house-on-the-placket method. So apparently both are in use :).
ReplyDeleteI thought I read somewhere that the continuous-lap placket was more common in European menswear, but I have no actual data to back this up. Both methods look good, though---I think the continuous placket may be nicer on the inside, though. :)
Thanks so much for the reference to the Zieman book. I've got that one but haven't looked at it in a while. I remember it having some great ideas for getting it all done.
ReplyDeleteI've saved these posts for when I finally make a shirt for my raggedly husband.
ReplyDeleteI can't wait to see your progress and review of the new pattern you are going to make. I have found a sewing instructor who is helping me fit and sew the "sunshine top" that you have so successfully modified and sewed. i am hoping for a few "fitted to me" TNT patters to take with me when I go back home up North in April. I think that paying for a personal instructor might be some of the best money that I have spent. Thank you very much for always sharing your ability about and passion for sewing!
ReplyDeleteSadly, the muslin was not delivered today. Hopefully, it will come on Monday.....I'm looking forward to our long-distance fitting! Will let you know when it comes — and will send pix. Have a wonderful weekend, Debbie.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the information on the RTW version and the reference to the book. I have that one in my library and will check it out later.
ReplyDeleteI also bought that Butterick pattern, so am interested in seeing what adjustments you need to do to it..
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