Ren Faire Costume - Doublet Sleeves

You're probably tired of all these costume posts. I promise, I'm almost done.

Last night I made the sleeves for the doublet. They are separate because they tie on, giving the wearer the option of sleeves or no sleeves. Kind of neat thing, although one's armpits are pretty much fully exposed.

Below is one of the completed sleeves. It's a two-piece fully lined shaped sleeve, but the front seam is left open and just caught in four evenly-spaced spots so that the shirt underneath can peek through. Each of those four spots has a button sewn on top (that's 24 buttons for the costume, in case anyone but me is counting.). These Renaissance folks were all about layers and having all of their finery showing through slots, panes and slashes. The more, the merrier, and the richer you appeared to be.

The pattern calls for sewing tabs at the top of the sleeve, but I vetoed that because it meant the ties would be separate. Instead, I sewed the ties (black real suede) into the top of the sleeve to align with the tabs under the doublet flanges. Less opportunity for Reko to lose the ties and more opportunity to get the sleeve tied higher into the armsyce area.

Here you can see the 3 black tabs sewn under the doublet flange.Joann's didn't have small grommets so for now the scratchy eyelets will have to do. I used black Ultrasuede for the tabs to avoid the extra bulk of turned seam allowances on a tiny rectangle. I'm thinking if I have to stay with the eyelets for the codpiece anchors, I will make little "flaps" from the Ultrasuede and attach them to the inside of the breeches to cover the rough spots of the eyelets. Reko is wearing tights under the breeches and even if the rough backs of the eyelets don't bother his skin, I think they would still snag the tights. Most men aren't used to dealing with runs in their hose so better to be safe with little cover flaps, I think.

Here is the top of the sleeve tied to the tabs. The flange is still folded upward. Once the flange is back in its correct position, the ties are mostly hidden.We'll probably trim the ties so they are more hidden, but I wanted to start with them too long vs. too short and get Reko's input on how much length he needs to tie them.

Here's the (mostly) completed costume, with both sleeves tied on. It will be 100% complete after the fitting. I still have to make a hat, but I've decided I don't like the color of the red fabric I initially purchased. It's not bright red enough. So, back to Joann's yet again later today. Or, maybe I'll just use the bright red from the costume. I do have enough left over. I just don't know if it will be too much. Although what exactly is too much on a shiny red and gold Renaissance costume?;-)

And the back view.You can sort of see the shirt fabric peeking out of the right-side armpit. The sleeves only tie at the top so the bottom of the armhole is completely free. Good for Florida ventilation, right?

I will definitely have photos of Reko dressed up, but I will probably have to wait for him to take them so that he's got all of his accessories on too. He's all about photos of himself in his various costumes, so I don't doubt there will be plenty. This red is so hard to photograph inside. I'm sure the outdoor photos he'll take will be much better. And besides, a little break from all of these costume shots will probably be welcome. ;-)

I'm really looking forward to some easy sewing - like a men's dress shirt. Hahaha! It's coming, I promise, Michael, I promise.