The blouse is done and it's a keeper. I'm hoping to take pics and write up a review tomorrow or Tuesday.
I spent Thursday night, Friday night and all day Saturday at a seminar my company put on. That would be fine, except I had no voice. And I mean NO VOICE. I had a cold last week and only felt bad the first day of it and then days later out of the blue, I lost my voice. Not the best situation when one is dealing with hoards of people asking questions. But except for the voice thing, I actually felt perfectly fine.
Until today. It all caught up with me I suppose. I forced myself to finish the blouse this afternoon and then as much as I wanted to use the rest of the day to do something else productive in the sewing room, I just couldn't muster any motivation to do anything more than look at some patterns in the on-deck pile. I know I'm running a low-grade temp so any energy is gone. Ugh. And I still have no voice.
Hopefully this will pass quickly.
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Getting There

OK, I swear I'm buying a new camera with my next paycheck. Grrr. I can never get a non-fuzzy photo anymore. It can't be me, right? ;-)
So, here is where the blouse is tonight. Hems and buttons/buttonholes and I should be able to call it done. Except …
The front waist darts are bugging me. I really think I need to move them further toward the sideseams. You can't see them in the photo but trust me. They are not centered under the apex and they should be. I suppose ripping and resewing a couple of darts I should've pin-tested anyway is a small price to pay for not needing an FBA with this pattern.
The sleeves are also only just OK. They're fine now, but I'm still flashing back to setting them into the armholes. For the next version, I need to remove some cap ease. These were a BEAR and shouldn't have been. One commenter said she had a problem with them too. But I think the problem I had was probably self-inflicted, since I cut down the sleeve pattern and the armhole separately and didn't walk the seams to test them together. But hey, no shoulder width adjustment necessary which is a first in the Big 3/4 for me.
All in all, though, I'm generally very happy with this pattern and my new blouse. The only thing I don't like and can't change is the paisley placement. Oh well, it could've been worse.
I'm not sure if I'm going to get to finish it before Sunday. Tomorrow night I have a work dinner meeting and Friday night and Saturday all-day, a conference. I'm finally going to be able to wear some of those office clothes I made last April. And the weather is cooperating by cooling off, so I might even dig out some of the pantyhose too. But we'll see on that. LOL!
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Still a Keeper
Happy Valentine's Day!

I wish I could take credit for making these beautiful cupcakes, but nope, wasn't me. DS#2's girlfriend made them and brought them over for all of us. And at midnight, there's even still some left! I wouldn't let anyone eat one until I snapped a photo. They were just so pretty.
* * * * *
So, I have actually been sewing a bit, still working on Butterick 5300. I cut and sewed a muslin and decided I was good to go on the bodice. The wrinkle you see below is a bad pin job - look at the bottom edge of the blouse!

The sleeves were still an unknown until the muslin. The finished bicep width is printed on the sleeve pattern pieces. My pattern armholes were size 1x but my actual bicep width plus ease falls between the 1x and 2x measurements. I also had made that tuck across the bodice mentioned last post and so I scooped the bottom of the armhole to compensate and cut the size 2x sleeve to give it a try.
In the pic below, the sleeve on your right is the 2x with no adjustment. Way too much cap ease. That's a big pleat at the top making it stand up.

The sleeve on the left is the 2x but I didn't force all the ease into the cap and instead let about 1/2" of each underarm seam fall into the seam allowance. In other words, what I ended up with was this morphed sleeve below. I also shortened it considerably because I hate those "long" short sleeves that scream frumpy to me.

While I was taking pics of pattern pieces, I also snapped this one to show the difference between the A/B/C cup piece (left) and the D/DD cup piece (right). Oh, and those are Dani's nose and toes at the top of the pic. ;-)

I still haven't found the fabric I really want so I pulled a second choice from the stash. Here's where I am as of tonight.

When tracing the pattern, I overcompensated at the hips so it's flaring out too much. I already sewed the front waist darts all the way to the hem and I'll sew deeper sideseam allowances. I think I'm also going to purposely lose the vents at the bottom. I don't need them. I also still need to sew the back waist darts.
I made the view with the back yoke since it was different, and added piping because after sewing the yoke on the first time, it got lost and what's the point of a yoke if it can't be seen. But I think on the next version, I'm going to lengthen it. It looks a little short and out of proportion, don't you think? But that's a style choice and an easy fix, so I won't blame the pattern for this one. Much.

I also decided to pipe the collar. You can't really see it in the full-length pic above, but it does actually show up in real life.

I'm going to finish this tomorrow. There's no more football to distract me. (Sob!) Both sons will be with their girlfriends I'm sure, and DH is out of town. It will just be me and the dogs, and the sewing machines.

I wish I could take credit for making these beautiful cupcakes, but nope, wasn't me. DS#2's girlfriend made them and brought them over for all of us. And at midnight, there's even still some left! I wouldn't let anyone eat one until I snapped a photo. They were just so pretty.
* * * * *
So, I have actually been sewing a bit, still working on Butterick 5300. I cut and sewed a muslin and decided I was good to go on the bodice. The wrinkle you see below is a bad pin job - look at the bottom edge of the blouse!

The sleeves were still an unknown until the muslin. The finished bicep width is printed on the sleeve pattern pieces. My pattern armholes were size 1x but my actual bicep width plus ease falls between the 1x and 2x measurements. I also had made that tuck across the bodice mentioned last post and so I scooped the bottom of the armhole to compensate and cut the size 2x sleeve to give it a try.
In the pic below, the sleeve on your right is the 2x with no adjustment. Way too much cap ease. That's a big pleat at the top making it stand up.

The sleeve on the left is the 2x but I didn't force all the ease into the cap and instead let about 1/2" of each underarm seam fall into the seam allowance. In other words, what I ended up with was this morphed sleeve below. I also shortened it considerably because I hate those "long" short sleeves that scream frumpy to me.

While I was taking pics of pattern pieces, I also snapped this one to show the difference between the A/B/C cup piece (left) and the D/DD cup piece (right). Oh, and those are Dani's nose and toes at the top of the pic. ;-)

I still haven't found the fabric I really want so I pulled a second choice from the stash. Here's where I am as of tonight.

When tracing the pattern, I overcompensated at the hips so it's flaring out too much. I already sewed the front waist darts all the way to the hem and I'll sew deeper sideseam allowances. I think I'm also going to purposely lose the vents at the bottom. I don't need them. I also still need to sew the back waist darts.
I made the view with the back yoke since it was different, and added piping because after sewing the yoke on the first time, it got lost and what's the point of a yoke if it can't be seen. But I think on the next version, I'm going to lengthen it. It looks a little short and out of proportion, don't you think? But that's a style choice and an easy fix, so I won't blame the pattern for this one. Much.

I also decided to pipe the collar. You can't really see it in the full-length pic above, but it does actually show up in real life.

I'm going to finish this tomorrow. There's no more football to distract me. (Sob!) Both sons will be with their girlfriends I'm sure, and DH is out of town. It will just be me and the dogs, and the sewing machines.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
A Weekend of Good Sewing & Crappy Photos
First, how disgusting sad is THIS?

Next, Crappy Photo #1.

I just cannot get the colors to photograph well. Both fabrics (yes, there are two) are chocolate brown. The collar, sleeves, and pants are solid. The torso front/back are patterned.
The pants are yet another make of my TNT. The jacket is Simplicity 5352, which I made once before, 4 years ago. I went back to PatternReview.com and re-read my review after I had made this second version. Sewing must be like labor — you forget all the really bad pain. Or so I've heard — I had 2 C-sections myself and have never been in labor! If I had re-read the review before I started, I might not have made it again. But we had a cold snap the last couple of weeks and I had been wearing the first version a lot. Obviously, I got over whatever I didn't like about it 4 years ago. The only changes I made for this one was to add cuffs to the sleeves so I can push them up. I'm right there with you on those TNTs, Carolyn, especially now that my days are not my own anymore.
Really, this outfit is not much of a leap from my PJs, but at least it's NOT my PJs. I shouldn't admit this, but the UPS and FedEx guys come here nearly every day and guess what I'm still wearing? Yep. My PJs. Working from home is really bad that way. Especially when there is no one around to see you when you take the dogs out for a walk around the yard. Oh, this is pitiful. I must resolve to get into the shower before starting work.
Crappy Photo #2 and #3:


No, the blouse is still a wadder but I hadn't taken it off Zillie yet and it matched, so it got a little use as a prop.
The browns are a little better in these pics, but they do actually match in real life so something is still off.
All fabrics and notions from stash. But I'm running low on brown serger thread now.
* * * * *
Moving on to the next project of the weekend …
I read in the Winter issue of Sewing Today about this pattern (B5300) and its separate pattern pieces for larger busts. I was curious. So, when I renewed my Club BMV membership last week when all BMV patterns were on sale for $3.29, I bought it (and, ahem, a few others).
Yes, I know how much I've dissed Connie Crawford patterns in the past. I still have gripes for 99.99% of them. But this one? Run out and buy it NOW if you're fluffy and well-endowed in the boobage department. Buy two.

Below is the tracing on me. The only alterations I made to it were:
1. Square shoulders as I traced (always for me)
2. Blend to next size at hips as I traced (unfortunately, another always for me)
3. 1/2" tuck in the upper chest (a usual for me). I'll lower the armhole the same amount and then still use the same sleeve, which I'm pretty sure will not have to be altered. IOW, the armhole is not already too low/big.
What I did NOT alter:
1. No FBA. This pattern has separate pieces for A-B-C cup and D-DD cup (that's 2 sizes, not 5). The "mound" in the photo above is the D-DD bust cup.
2. No shoulder width reduction. The shoulder seam/sleeve cap is not hanging down my arm. I may need to slice a 1/8"-1/4" off after I see it in fabric, but that's nothing. This pattern is actually cognizant of the fact that most women's shoulders do not morph to 6-7 inches wide when they gain weight.
3. Dart height. Right on the money out of the envelope. Well, after the tuck. But even without the tuck, it was pretty darn close.

I do have a couple of complaints about this pattern but it's the instruction sheets, not the pattern itself. There is no layout that shows the mini line drawings of the pattern pieces. You know how that is usually right below the different views on the first page of the instruction sheets? Nope. That is driving me CRAZY! I love studying those drawings in bed at night.
Instead of those missing drawings, there are the same boilerplate instructions for alterations that I've seen in all CC's Butterick patterns. And most of them don't even apply to this top. The boilerplate tells you how to alter princess seams for a larger bust, but nary a word on darted tops. There is also no information to help you choose the appropriate bust cup size. Personally, I didn't need this, but I'm sure many others would. That's a huge omission IMO.
Oh, wait. There is one pattern element I will gripe about. Back neck facings for the collared views. Grrrrr. Enough said.
And the last bad thing about this pattern? I HAVE NO FABRIC ON HAND TO USE FOR IT! Arghhhhh!! My stash is full of knits, bottomweights, and solids. I want a pretty light-stretch blouse print. Maybe I can find something online (with browns) and get it here by next weekend. I'm sure a drive to Joann's would be a waste of time, although I do need more muslin. And brown serger thread.
In case you missed the obvious from this post, I'm starting to get my life back a little. I have not worked the last few weekends. I've filed all the household paperwork that was piled up on my desk, made some good headway into the to-do list that has been sorely neglected, and I've sewed.
Pretty soon I'll be back in full swing. I can't wait!

Next, Crappy Photo #1.

I just cannot get the colors to photograph well. Both fabrics (yes, there are two) are chocolate brown. The collar, sleeves, and pants are solid. The torso front/back are patterned.
The pants are yet another make of my TNT. The jacket is Simplicity 5352, which I made once before, 4 years ago. I went back to PatternReview.com and re-read my review after I had made this second version. Sewing must be like labor — you forget all the really bad pain. Or so I've heard — I had 2 C-sections myself and have never been in labor! If I had re-read the review before I started, I might not have made it again. But we had a cold snap the last couple of weeks and I had been wearing the first version a lot. Obviously, I got over whatever I didn't like about it 4 years ago. The only changes I made for this one was to add cuffs to the sleeves so I can push them up. I'm right there with you on those TNTs, Carolyn, especially now that my days are not my own anymore.
Really, this outfit is not much of a leap from my PJs, but at least it's NOT my PJs. I shouldn't admit this, but the UPS and FedEx guys come here nearly every day and guess what I'm still wearing? Yep. My PJs. Working from home is really bad that way. Especially when there is no one around to see you when you take the dogs out for a walk around the yard. Oh, this is pitiful. I must resolve to get into the shower before starting work.
Crappy Photo #2 and #3:


No, the blouse is still a wadder but I hadn't taken it off Zillie yet and it matched, so it got a little use as a prop.
The browns are a little better in these pics, but they do actually match in real life so something is still off.
All fabrics and notions from stash. But I'm running low on brown serger thread now.
* * * * *
Moving on to the next project of the weekend …
I read in the Winter issue of Sewing Today about this pattern (B5300) and its separate pattern pieces for larger busts. I was curious. So, when I renewed my Club BMV membership last week when all BMV patterns were on sale for $3.29, I bought it (and, ahem, a few others).
Yes, I know how much I've dissed Connie Crawford patterns in the past. I still have gripes for 99.99% of them. But this one? Run out and buy it NOW if you're fluffy and well-endowed in the boobage department. Buy two.

Below is the tracing on me. The only alterations I made to it were:
1. Square shoulders as I traced (always for me)
2. Blend to next size at hips as I traced (unfortunately, another always for me)
3. 1/2" tuck in the upper chest (a usual for me). I'll lower the armhole the same amount and then still use the same sleeve, which I'm pretty sure will not have to be altered. IOW, the armhole is not already too low/big.
What I did NOT alter:
1. No FBA. This pattern has separate pieces for A-B-C cup and D-DD cup (that's 2 sizes, not 5). The "mound" in the photo above is the D-DD bust cup.
2. No shoulder width reduction. The shoulder seam/sleeve cap is not hanging down my arm. I may need to slice a 1/8"-1/4" off after I see it in fabric, but that's nothing. This pattern is actually cognizant of the fact that most women's shoulders do not morph to 6-7 inches wide when they gain weight.
3. Dart height. Right on the money out of the envelope. Well, after the tuck. But even without the tuck, it was pretty darn close.

I do have a couple of complaints about this pattern but it's the instruction sheets, not the pattern itself. There is no layout that shows the mini line drawings of the pattern pieces. You know how that is usually right below the different views on the first page of the instruction sheets? Nope. That is driving me CRAZY! I love studying those drawings in bed at night.
Instead of those missing drawings, there are the same boilerplate instructions for alterations that I've seen in all CC's Butterick patterns. And most of them don't even apply to this top. The boilerplate tells you how to alter princess seams for a larger bust, but nary a word on darted tops. There is also no information to help you choose the appropriate bust cup size. Personally, I didn't need this, but I'm sure many others would. That's a huge omission IMO.
Oh, wait. There is one pattern element I will gripe about. Back neck facings for the collared views. Grrrrr. Enough said.
And the last bad thing about this pattern? I HAVE NO FABRIC ON HAND TO USE FOR IT! Arghhhhh!! My stash is full of knits, bottomweights, and solids. I want a pretty light-stretch blouse print. Maybe I can find something online (with browns) and get it here by next weekend. I'm sure a drive to Joann's would be a waste of time, although I do need more muslin. And brown serger thread.
In case you missed the obvious from this post, I'm starting to get my life back a little. I have not worked the last few weekends. I've filed all the household paperwork that was piled up on my desk, made some good headway into the to-do list that has been sorely neglected, and I've sewed.
Pretty soon I'll be back in full swing. I can't wait!
Sunday, January 4, 2009
Spitting Nails
So, I finally get a weekend to sew and it's a wadder. Looks pretty good in this pic, eh?

Hah! Looks can be deceiving.
The pattern:

On me:

Closer:

I did all the right things — muslin, FBA, - even taking photos along the way for the long blog entry I'd be writing. But my mistake was not making a quick second muslin. Lesson learned: one should not be too confident.
But even if this didn't have some weird boob anomalies going on, I still wouldn't wear it. The fabric, while pretty to look at, is horrible to wear. Every small move ends up with Velcro butt:

And Zillie has a very slippery cover, so there would really be no cure except to fully line whatever you make from this fabric. At least I won't be obsessing trying to save this.
That's two in a row now. Time for a TNT knit top I think. Or a cocktail.
Happy New Year Y'all!

Hah! Looks can be deceiving.
The pattern:

On me:

Closer:

I did all the right things — muslin, FBA, - even taking photos along the way for the long blog entry I'd be writing. But my mistake was not making a quick second muslin. Lesson learned: one should not be too confident.
But even if this didn't have some weird boob anomalies going on, I still wouldn't wear it. The fabric, while pretty to look at, is horrible to wear. Every small move ends up with Velcro butt:

And Zillie has a very slippery cover, so there would really be no cure except to fully line whatever you make from this fabric. At least I won't be obsessing trying to save this.
That's two in a row now. Time for a TNT knit top I think. Or a cocktail.
Happy New Year Y'all!
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