I've had a number of questions about how the collar/lapels are sewn. I just used the method from Butterick's instruction sheet, shown below. Since the jacket isn't lined, this method works perfectly fine. I'm not too experienced with lining jackets yet, but does anyone (Belinda? Marji?) know why this wouldn't work for bagging a lining as well? Sewing the notched lapels and collar pieces was certainly a lot less fiddly than making two separate units of collar pieces.
Click on the pics to enlarge them for clarity.
This is the inside of the jacket, with the shoulder pads attached. BTW, the instructions are wrong about attaching the shoulder pads. They instruct to attach the pads to the seam allowances, which would be all fine and well, if the facing weren't sewn into the armhole seam (which was done a few steps before the pads). Obviously, a boilerplate instruction dropped in without proofing the method. I hand-sewed the pads along the shoulder seam of the facing only. I'll note this in my review, whenever I finish the jacket and write one.
And before you ask, this is one of the shoulder pads. It's a raglan style, 1/2" thick. Raglan pads work best for me because it gently curves/smooths the end of my already square shoulders. (It's sitting on a piece of linen that will be a skirt to coordinate with the jacket.)
Next post in a few minutes will be a separate entry for a little patch pocket tutorial.
I have noticed that a lot of the McCalls and Simplicity jacket patterns have you sew the facing and collar piece to the lining. I have never done it like this, but rather attach facing and upper collar to the jacket, and then add the lining. I bag the lining. It just makes me think that you have less control over the all important collar lapel intersection. Do they do this in rtw? I don't know, but I resist.
ReplyDeleteI too like using a raglan shoulder pad, even though I have sloping shoulders. Actually I have one sloping due to an accident years ago and these are easier to fit.
By the way, I like this jacket on you. I love how you placed the print and used it to flatter you. I like the shorter length of jacket as I think that longer jackets can be dowdy and not slimming as many people think.
ReplyDeleteDebbie, your jacket is looking good. Like everything in sewing there is more than one way to do things. The method you used is the one favoured in unlined jackets. The 'traditional' method with lining, which is harder to execute, allows you to line right up to the neck edge. It also reduces bulk and you have the slippery lining fabric over the upper back and shoulders.
ReplyDeleteIf you like the Butterick method though there is no reason why you can't use it when lining a jacket, other than what you discovered with the shoulder pads. :/ It does need to be modified.
No method is ever right or wrong, just what you prefer and find easiest given the fabric you are working with. I use different methods for different fabrics and patterns. Learn them all and then you can choose. :)