Progress on Butterick 4818

Slow progress, but progress. Although the alterations were simple, I just kept dragging my feet around other weekend activities. Now that the pattern is altered, a muslin tested, and everything is cut out, the mojo is back and I'm moving along.

Here's the front pattern piece. As you can hopefully see, the FBA is not huge — only about 3/4". I did have to move the entire dart down about 3/4" though. Even with the 1/2" shoulder pads per the pattern, the dart was still pointing to my chin. ;-)



I started with the 18 for chest and did NOT have to narrow the shoulders, which is unusual since that's a very regular alteration for me. I did scoop the armhole just a bit but that's more personal comfort preference than anything.

When I picked this pattern, one of the reasons I liked it was because of the way the underbust fit snugly and flattered the model. Yeah, I know they use clips, pins, etc., but I decided I could get the same look with "S" darts (see Threads #107). It took a few tries with pinning, basting, and marking, but I think I've got it now. The waist darts end closer to the apex than "normal," but I've seen plenty of patterns and RTW tops that do the same thing so I'm fine with that. Plus the dart seam tends to get lost it the print when it's on me anyway.




Speaking of the print … I actually managed to catch myself before making an ugly mistake. Usually, I cut back pieces that have a CB seam from doubled fabric, like you would for an On the Fold layout. But when you have a print that is anything but subtle, you'll more likely than not get an unpleasing visual between the halves. Like this:



However, if you cut the two pieces single layer, you can decide where to divide the motifs. Luckily I had enough fabric to cut one more back piece (and before I sewed anything), making the entire back look much better. Don't you agree?



I'll continue working on this today and maybe I'll have a finished jacket to show you tomorrow. Although not if the dogs have anything to say about it. ;-)