Here's the front pattern piece. As you can hopefully see, the FBA is not huge — only about 3/4". I did have to move the entire dart down about 3/4" though. Even with the 1/2" shoulder pads per the pattern, the dart was still pointing to my chin. ;-)
I started with the 18 for chest and did NOT have to narrow the shoulders, which is unusual since that's a very regular alteration for me. I did scoop the armhole just a bit but that's more personal comfort preference than anything.
When I picked this pattern, one of the reasons I liked it was because of the way the underbust fit snugly and flattered the model. Yeah, I know they use clips, pins, etc., but I decided I could get the same look with "S" darts (see Threads #107). It took a few tries with pinning, basting, and marking, but I think I've got it now. The waist darts end closer to the apex than "normal," but I've seen plenty of patterns and RTW tops that do the same thing so I'm fine with that. Plus the dart seam tends to get lost it the print when it's on me anyway.
Speaking of the print … I actually managed to catch myself before making an ugly mistake. Usually, I cut back pieces that have a CB seam from doubled fabric, like you would for an On the Fold layout. But when you have a print that is anything but subtle, you'll more likely than not get an unpleasing visual between the halves. Like this:
However, if you cut the two pieces single layer, you can decide where to divide the motifs. Luckily I had enough fabric to cut one more back piece (and before I sewed anything), making the entire back look much better. Don't you agree?
I'll continue working on this today and maybe I'll have a finished jacket to show you tomorrow. Although not if the dogs have anything to say about it. ;-)
Ah yes, MUCH better! Good catch.
ReplyDeleteHope you are staying cool!
Elaine
Great save.
ReplyDeleteIf you had sewn the first layout it would have made you look 10 lbs heavier! It is amazing what a difference it makes.qghbs
ReplyDeleteSomehow I typed the characters in my post. No I am not losing it!
ReplyDeleteThat fabric and pattern combo is really pretty. Another pattern(sigh) that I want to add to the pattern drawer. I will be just waiting for a butterick sale like an old spider for the jacket and skirt pattern. My collection needs them despite the fact that a zillion others await. mssewcrazy
ReplyDeleteSee, buying "extra" is a good thing. Not that I'm trying to justify my own fabric purchases....
ReplyDeleteThe second cut does looks better. Thanks for the tip. I would have never thought of that.
ReplyDeleteThat is a fantastic tip for cutting the back for better motif placement. Thanks Debbie - I could have used that last week on a knit top I just made but it looks ok as it is.
ReplyDeleteVery nice detail...love the back, and it looks much much better ;)Great save!
ReplyDelete