The print I'm using is a very drapey and slippery and sheer poly picked up at Hancock's a few years ago. I have to sew it very s-l-o-w-l-y because it has a mind of its own, wants to walk all over the place, and tells me that seam allowances are really just suggestions.
I've mostly been able to tame it into submission, but I'm up to putting in the sleeves now and they are giving me fits. If anyone ever asks me what my least favorite thing about sewing is, my answer would be setting in sleeves. Or, more correctly, setting in sleeves with too much (read: any) sleeve cap ease. I've vowed that very soon I'm going to revisit some of my sewn blouse patterns and find one that has a great armsyce and sleeves and then use that combo from now on. I know I have at least one or two. I just have to read some past reviews and figure out which ones they are.
I knew from my muslin that there was too much ease in these sleeves (like 1.5"-2"). But I also cut into the shoulder of the bodice pieces to narrow them and after rewalking the sewing lines, I thought I had corrected it. Apparently not. There is no way this fabric will ease and I don't have the patience for it or any more of this fabric to cut new sleeves. So I just said screw it and pleated the ease evenly on both sides of the shoulder seam. No one besides us will ever be able to tell it wasn't intentional. Heck, they don't even know (yet) at work that I sew.
Carolyn asked what I was pairing the finished blouse with and suggested Vogue 1247 (the Rachel skirt). While that pattern is on my radar, I have a few other skirt patterns that I actually own and thus are higher up in the queue, so it will be one of them. The skirt fabric is below. It's kind of a brownish greyish olive something, and I have a TON of it. It will be good to clear some of it from the stash.
Debbie have you tried using spray starch along the seams for slippery fabrics? I find it really gives you a more stable surface to sew on. I just spray it on and iron it dry; it really helps me.
ReplyDeleteI hate easing sleeves in, too! This looks really good so far- I think the little sleeve pleats look like great design details!
ReplyDeleteOh looks like I missed all the fun ;-) cute top, can't wait to see it finished. Hugs xx
ReplyDeleteI love the pleats in the sleeves. That's a great tip for those pesky massive easing sleeves. Sometimes I swear those pattern drafters just pull sleeve patterns out of their shoe!
ReplyDeleteLove that fabric. It is going to be really cute.
ReplyDeleteMind telling me where is the best place to buy invisible zippers online. I've always bought one at a time and it is so expensive.
After 30 minutes of reviewing Regretsy and then finding "1,386 items for wallet pattern" in the search results for Etsy - whatever.
ReplyDeleteAnd the whole anonymous thing - way to make a positive point.
Enough said.
I like Belinda's trick of using spray starch on slippery fabrics to help give them more stability.
I come to your blog to learn cool little sewing tricks like that.
Keep your cool.
Slippery fabric can be frustrating!!!! The starch does work. Also tear away stabilizer sometimes works. Your blouse is looking great, though. I love the print!
ReplyDeleteI sometimes use a little freezer paper to tame slippery fabrics. It pulls off nicely after stitching and doesn't seem to leave any residue.
ReplyDeleteI usually spray starch slippery fabric before I cut it. Takes some time, but tames the beast! Just make sure you do not copy my technique, you bad girl! Because I'm sure no one else ever has spray starched fabric before me!
ReplyDeleteOkay, okay - I know I'm pushing the Rachel Skirt but you'll see why when you finally get around to sewing it! *LOL* The blouse is looking good and that sleeve cap pleat...it's just a designer detail! ;)
ReplyDeleteThat's a neat tip about the spray starch. I'll have to file that one away.
ReplyDeleteI hate setting in sleeves with excess ease, too. I've yet to find a pattern that doesn't have any sleeve cap ease but when I do I'm sure I'll use it whenever I can.
That combo looks like it's going to be a gorgeous outfit! Can't wait to see the final results!
ReplyDeleteNice fabric combo and 'design detail' on the sleeve cap. Can't wait to see this one completed.
ReplyDeleteOHHHH, I love the fabric for this blouse and it goes so nicely with the skirt fabric you have. I have also used the 'design detail' that you used on the sleeve cap to help eliminate that excess ease. The slippery fabric issue I have tamed with glue stick (in the seam allowance only) A quick swipe with the stick in seam allowance, press together and wait a minute or two (while you are working on another seam?) and then sew. The seam does not move around. However, I do NOT press my finished seams open, I serge close to the finished seam line and press in appropriate direction. I have not tried the starch, I will have to try that.
ReplyDeleteI've used tissue paper before & I like the spray starch idea, too. Love the fabric combination. Donna
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