Sunday, January 9, 2011

One Muslin To Go — Hold the Buttons

Michael's muslin is done and will be on its way to NYC tomorrow. It's probably the most finished fit muslin I've ever done, everything except buttons, but I needed the practice. It's also a weird fabric that looks *better* in the photos than in real life. How often does that happen? IRL, all the seams are puckered and nothing presses flat (definitely a poly blend). You can sort of see what I mean in the collar pic below.

I thought I was going to have the most trouble with the collar and stand, but it went pretty well. Probably because the gods know this is a tester. I'll probably screw up on the real one and have to re-do it ten times. Isn't that always the way?

I did channel my inner Peter when stitching the stand on though, which is always the part that could be better on every other shirt I've made. Maybe that's why it came out pretty good?

This time, instead of using my edge stitching foot and having to stop to remove pins because it doesn't flow smoothly over them, I thought about what Peter probably does with his vintage machines and feet. In other words, I used my flat-bottom straight stitching foot and one of its toes for a guide, and sewed right over the pins. I'm interested to see Peter's future blog post on this and his other techniques. That's one problem with sewing before the "Along" part officially starts. One is kind of on her own, sucking wind. :-)

Here's the finished placket. Well, finished except for buttonhole and button. I did finally find the Nancy Zieman technique I knew was floating around here somewhere. It's in her Sewing Express book. NZ's technique is essentially the same as Summerset's tutorial. The only difference is the slit opening is cut differently and you can sew all the way across the top of the placket area when attaching the fabric strip. I think I'll try this on some scraps while I'm waiting for Michael to try on his shirt, and for the fabric to arrive.

The cuff looks pretty good in this pic, but that's only because you can't see the inside. On the muslin, one is better than the other because I used two different techniques. I think I have a handle on them now and the cuffs on the real shirt should be fine. Don't panic Michael. Remember, this is a techniques muslin for me as well as a fit muslin for you.

Finally, I even made and attached the pocket. I think my OCD is showing. ;-)

It was GREAT to be back in the sewing room! Thank you Michael and Peter for kick-starting the mojo.


  1. Wonderful! Yeah, the fabric in the pics doesn't look bad at all. The collar look great: I can't wait to see what tips Peter might post, so I'm waiting. I have plenty to sew in the meantime (who doesn't?)

  2. Good grief -- that's superb. Debbie, are you trying to make me look bad?

    (OK, three more weeks to hone my skills...)

  3. Nothing makes you look bad, Peter, as your outfit in today's blog post shows. ;-)

    I was on a roll and couldn't stop. It was just nice to be sewing again.

  4. That muslin looks great! I actually think I have that same fabric which was turned into a wadder sometime back.

  5. I think you have done a wonderful job! Pam Erny's method of collar/stand helps me. I usually refer to it when I (seldom) make a collar/stand. Can't wait to see the "real" shirt!

  6. That "muslin" looks great minus the fabric puckers (not your fault). I'll enjoy watching your progress on the real thing. You now have me thinking about trying a shirt again (not enough to do anything about it yet).

  7. That detailing work looks superb! I wouldn't be surprised if Peter puts on the buttons and buttonholes himself, even if the seams are a little puckery!

  8. You're Wonderful!
    (your acquaintance only by internet)

  9. That's a muslin? Wow, what a fantastic job!

  10. OK, that truly is the most OCD muslin I've ever seen. It is impeccable!

  11. That is so beautifully done. Can you please tell us where you found that fabric? I've been searching all over for something like this and cannot find it anywhere. It's lovely!

  12. @Lioness - the fabric came from Hancock's years ago, so it wouldn't still be available. Plus, it's not really good fabric. Sorry ...


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