The sleeves are the main deal breakers and if I make this again using this bodice, I will definitely cut out the sleeve portion and morph sleeves and armhole from another knit pattern as I showed last post. After adding 2" to the width and sewing the bicep area with 1/4" seam allowances, they are technically not too tight. But they are close to being snug and worse, they feel weird, with the stretch running lengthwise. Like Spanx for your arms.
But there were other problems too. I probably can't explain it well without photos, but the part on the skirt where the faux knot goes requires that you slit it at the waist in two areas. That's OK. But then the directions tell you to use double-fold bias binding to finish the slits. Um, no. First, it's a knit. Second, what a PITA. I just turned the edge under and topstitched it down. No one is ever going to see it anyway because it's hidden by the knot.
And speaking of the knot, you make a tube and then gather each end, with the end result to be a gathered knot. Which just doesn't happen. If you DO make this dress, skip that step.
The pattern is higher waisted than the line drawings lead you (me) to believe. It's not empire but the waist seam is definitely not at my waist. This is actually OK on me, because it's hitting me at a good spot. Just a warning to look out for this if you're looking for a dress waist that actually sits at the waist. I also left off the clear elastic I was supposed to sew onto the waist seam allowances for stability. It's a good idea for some fabrics, but this one is fine without it.
Finally, and not really the fault of the pattern, is that there are a good number of pleats to mark and sew and marking was nearly impossible on this fabric, unless I were to use tailor tacks. Which I'm not, because you know how I love handsewing. And making pleats in an ITY knit is headache-inducing, but I muddled through with an I-don't-really-care-if-it's-not-perfect attitude. The inside of this dress is NOT pretty. But knits are forgiving and I'm not going to be flashing anyone the inside of my dress. (Unless that guy from the elevator asks!)
I added tie ends under the knot, which do not show in photos at all. But they do show in real life and I like how they look. The give the faux wrap a little more realism. ;-)
See what I mean about the gorilla sleeves? OMG.
Now all that said, except for the sleeves and adding another 1-1/2" to the bottom, I made no other alterations, always a plus. And, I think the dress looks pretty good on me so I'll definitely wear it. As soon as I forget those horrendous drafting and construction errors. And once I do forget, I may even have a moment of crazy and make it again.
OK, I hear you. But your ass looks fabulous!
ReplyDeleteSad that it was such a PITA to sew, but it looks really beautiful on you! Plus, how refreshing to see a wrap style that you don't have to wear a cami with to hide your bra. :-)
ReplyDeleteThe dress looks very nice on you.
ReplyDeletePITA, I am so slow when it comes to acronyms - took me a minute to figure that one out. I second K.Line's motion, that dress does look great on you. I love that pattern, but hadn't felt the urge to whip it out yet. The sleeves on the model on the envelope do look a bit too snug. I hadn't noticed until you mentioned it here. I'm due for another wrap dress - trying to make a pattern decision now.
ReplyDeleteThe dress looks great on you despite the PITA issues. However, you have scared the sh*t out of me... I hate PITA patterns.. my motto is plain & painless...lol
ReplyDeleteI agree with everyone else, you do look fabulous in it. I can also, though, understand how fit of the sleeve makes it uncomfortable. I've noticed that sleeves are often narrower now even in ready-made. I thought it was just me!
ReplyDeleteWoah Debbie, you look fabulous in this dress. Now you know all the pitfalls of the pattern you should make some more as it really does look lovely on you.
ReplyDeleteEven though the dress is PITA, it looks great on you! Pretty fabric.
ReplyDeleteLooks great. Shame about the troubles though.
ReplyDeleteI really admire you because I thought that pattern was a loser from the drawings...so the fact that you got a wearable dress out of it is pretty amazing. Don't make it again! Seriously there are way too many other easier to sew patterns...and how high are those heels? You are really starting to work it, y'know! :)
ReplyDeleteIt may have been a PITA (and I won't make it because of that) but it looks great. I am a semi lurker who only checks in once every other month or so, but I have to tell you you look freakin fantastic!! Whatever you're doing, keep on doing it!
ReplyDeleteYou look fantastic, first of all. I have this pattern and after reading reviews never made it. You have officially made it a no go for me. Gosh, it really does look nice on you though!
ReplyDeleteIt's too bad the pattern is such a PITA, especially because I just bought it a little while ago. That said, I love your version of the dress. Gorilla sleeves and all! :)
ReplyDeleteOh it looks great! Thanks for the in depth review. g
ReplyDeleteI agree it does look nice on you. Like the 3 flowers inline down the center back! That's cool.
ReplyDeleteI agree it does look nice on you. Like the 3 flowers inline down the center back! That's cool.
ReplyDeleteBummer it was a PITA. But heck...you look great in it. Elevator guy will rubberneck if he watches you walk away! :)
ReplyDeleteHot!! And look at the airspace between your arms and your waist!!! I didn't weigh in on the keep or return vote on the shoes but definitely keep these. If i had to choose a pair to return it would have been the suede pair but I liked all three pairs.
ReplyDeleteWrap and faux wrap dresses are my favourites to make and wear, but Zi'll skip this one. Having said that and despite your traumas with this pattern, you look absolutely fab in it. Just gorgeous.
ReplyDeleteVery nice! I think elevator man will be impressed!!
ReplyDeletePITA it may have been, but the end result is just fab!!!
ReplyDeleteI am thinking of being brave and having a go at a faux wrap top, ( I have never sewn knits, ever); any recommendation for a nice easy one for someone who is the size you used to be?
It's a pretty dress. Hopefully the sleeves aren't too uncomfortable and you can enjoy wearing it.
ReplyDeleteSuch a pity it was an annoying pattern, because you look terrific in this dress, or more likely you are just generally looking terrific and this dress is taking advantage of that to appear like a pattern someone would actually want to make. I am glad you posted this because I was sort of considering buying the pattern and now I know better.
ReplyDeleteWell, it may of been a PITA to construct but it looks FAB on you, great job.
ReplyDeleteRegardless of the pattern, you've got yourself a good-looking dress. Congratulations! Now, go throw that pattern away.......
ReplyDeleteYou look beautiful in that dress! So glad I discovered your blog. Any sewing I do is mostly quilting, but I did do a lot of garment sewing back in the day. You are inspiring me to get back to it!
ReplyDeleteSpanx for your arms?! What a nightmare! The dress does look great on you, though. Pefect fabric and very flattering shape. I wish we could all order the pattern with Debbie's revisions included!
ReplyDeleteIn the pictures all the details are lost in the busy print. Glad you were able to salvage a wearable garment that looks great on you.
ReplyDeleteWow - you look amazing in that dress. Whatever trials and tribulations the pattern gave you, no one will know when they see you in the elevator.
ReplyDeleteThis dress looks fantastic on you!
ReplyDeleteBut the fabric is great, and you look great in it!
ReplyDeleteWhat a PITA , I would of given up.I am glad you carried on with it as the dress is fantastic. Loving the print.
ReplyDeleteThis is a really helpful review. I'm sorry it was a PITA to sew but the end result looks fantastic! I have this pattern and if I make it will definitely take your advice and morph a different bodice onto it.
ReplyDeleteYou may have had lots of issues, but it looks fabulous on you. If I decide to make this(i have the pattern) I will take your suggestions on the sleeves into account.
ReplyDeleteYou look great in that dress! Sorry to hear the pattern was a PITA, but I really appreciate when you post about these kinds of problems. When I first started sewing, I assumed that every pattern failure was my mistake and felt terrible about myself. Now that I have more experience, I know when I'm doing something wrong and when the instructions/drafting are just a mess of WTFery.
ReplyDeleteThe dress is delightful but I agree with Carolyn -- life's too short for annoying patterns.
It does look good on you! I've read your posts on this dress with extra interest as I've tried a muslin on this pattern and gave up. Reading your review confirms the idea I won't try again.
ReplyDeleteWell...despite the pattern being a PITA, you managed to make another great garment. and BTW...you look wonderful!
ReplyDeleteIn a great fit of going through all my patterns to find the one-that-I-was-thinking-about-but-couldn't-find-for-a-month, I found my 1970s Simplicity knock-off of Diane von Furstenberg's classic wrap dress. I think I'll use it to make a wrap dress instead of the Vogue that you struggled with -- even grading it up multiple sizes sounds easier! Love the print on you, though.
ReplyDeleteI love this dress on you and so will the elevator man. You do look great.
ReplyDeleteThe dress looks great! Oh... and all the shoes... ahem.. wonderful! Yes, Zappos is great isn't it! Can't believe how fast they must move! Sometimes they are a bit more $$ wise, but wow... if your in a hurry! Best company ever!
ReplyDeleteYou look great in the dress - sorry about the PITA part.
ReplyDeleteIt's a very flattering look, and I like the giraffe/floral print. But those PITA patterns--we all know them well.
ReplyDeleteI hope the man in the elevator sees you in this one!! :) The shoes look great with it too! Since you have revised the pattern, it should be ready to go again. I would make this pattern in an additional print since you have it adjusted so well.
ReplyDeleteIt looks really great on you- wish I could look that good in a wrap dress! The business with armholes and sleeves not being big enough is a general bugbear of mine- I haven't got those emaciated, stick-like arms that models and others who do no housework have! Even when I was a tiny little student weighing 35kgs, my arms and calves had plenty of meat in them & they still have! We should make a fuss to pattern companies about the shape of REAL PEOPLE these days- its changed, as well as height. I think I'll try a KwikSew version of a knit wrap dress rather than this one- thanks for the warning!
ReplyDeleteI am relatively new to your column and would like to know who makes the Magic skirt you make so often and seem to love? Thanks
ReplyDeleteThis is to answer Fran because I know Debbie is distracted right now. The Magic Pencil Skirt is from Pamela's Patterns...just google search for website. Good luck ... many seem to like the pattern.
ReplyDeleteJoy in Palmland
gorilla sleeves? omg, it was made for me and my GORILLA ARMS!! all sleeves are too short for me. all. sleeves. ALL. I always have to add 2 inches to every sleeve. ha ha.
ReplyDelete