Friday, June 22, 2007

Thoughts on the Sample Welt

Here's the finished sample welt pocket. You can see the pocket bag sticking out at the bottom. The second photo below shows a peek inside the pocket. The stitching is actually straight but the knit has a slight texture that creates hills and valleys.

I took photos during the construction process but now that I've finished this one, I've decided I'm going to change a few things for the final pocket. Yes, there will be a final welt pocket for the capris.

I used the welt pocket instructions in Pants for Real People. Not only is this a great book for pants fitting, but there's also a lot of good pants construction information toward the back, including easy and well-illustrated instructions for different types of welt pockets. I followed along step-by-step for my sample but for my final pants, I do need to change a couple of steps.

The first step in PFRP is to sew strips of fabric onto the pocket bag piece. (Highlighted in yellow for clarity in the photo below.) This is because it's assumed you will use a fabric other than the main fashion fabric for the pocket bag. For my front pocket, it means additional layers and bulk that aren't necessary since I'm 99% certain I'm going to use the same knit for the pocket and welts as I'm using for the pants.

The instructions also have you create a "stitching template" on non-woven interfacing. I think for the real pocket, I'm going to use washaway stabilizer and eliminate yet another layer. The knit is sturdy enough, has great recovery, and I won't be loading a lot of stuff into the pocket.

Finally, I'm going to trim the backside of the welts close to the stitching to remove even more extra fabric. The knit won't ravel and there is enough stitching and overstitching that nothing is going to move anyway.

The only other changes I'm planning are for size. I want the width of the pocket to be a little bit bigger. It's about 4 inches wide now. I think 5 will be easier to get my hand in and out. I'm also going to make the pocket bag about 2 inches deeper than the PFRP measurements given since mine is for a front, not a back, pocket.

I'll take more photos as I make the final pocket tomorrow.


  1. That looks great, but totally intimidating.

  2. Are these pockets going to be slanted Debbie? Great! Now I am going to have to purchase Pants for Real People (PFRP) and I was happy with my Singer pants book! Aren't the instructions in the Readers' Digest book too or is it better illustrated in PFRP?

    Can't wait to see how it turns out.

  3. Debbie, keep in mind the more length your pocket has, the more potential gaping it will do. Is your knit a pant weight? Using a thinner fabric could also eliminate a lot of bulk. Without the interfacing, how will you keep the pocket from stretching out of shape? I know you said your fabric had great recovery, but still. . .


  4. A slight curve in the pocket lines should make it lie closer to your body.

  5. Debbie, that looks great. I hope you add this to your list of fabulous tutorials!

  6. I'd think twice, maybe 3 times before I left out the stabilizer in your pocket. I also think that if you make the whole pocket out of the double knit it will be thicker, not thinner than if you add the pocket facings to a light weight pocketing.


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