Tees & Capris & Q&A

Next up on the cutting table: Another tee (big surprise, right?) and some knit capris.

For the tee, I'm going to make my Diana Mode inspired gathered vee neck again. I think I'll do basic short sleeves this time instead of the shaped, gathered hem band. I may change my mind on the sleeves, though, since I do like them a lot. I'll be using this fabric for the body, and a solid brown for the neckband.



For the capris, I'm going to rework my TNT fly-front Simplicity pattern (4068) into a pull-on pattern with a faux fly and side pockets. This is the same pattern for the coral capris you see me wearing with my latest Ottobre Woman tee with the lime green neckband. (Speaking of which, thank you everyone for all the nice comments on that!) For the capris, I'll be using this beefy doubleknit from Lucy's Fabrics:



I'm all about getting summer clothes made quickly right now, so you'll be seeing mostly TNT patterns for a while as I (try to) whittle down the stash piles. But I am easily tempted so I'm sure a new pattern or two will make an appearance. I've already tagged some cute skirt patterns from some European pattern magazines.

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Now, onto some answers to comments recently received (grab a cuppa, I didn't realize I had so many to answer):

About the Jalie 2681 skirt, "Could you make this pattern into a full length skirt? If you think it would work I would HAVE to go buy me a pattern!!"

Yes, that would be an easy change. Just slash the gore piece and add length. Voila!

"Do you cut your gores out on folded fabric? If so, I found it helped me if I take what I've cut directly over to the serger without separateing them."

Yes, I did cut on folded fabric, but I just had a brain freeze that day. ;-)

"I was wondering, what is the name of the cutting board (with the grids) on your sewing table?"

I don't know the exact brand as it wasn't marked. But it's the cutting mat that Joann's sells. It fits the cutting table also sold there and is pretty reasonably priced when you use a coupon. I've been using it a while now and it's holding up great.

"I was looking at that New Look pattern you were considering that had the tops with the Duroesque shape. Is it true that there aren't ties in the back on those tops? … I wonder if it would pull a little bit in the back where the midriff band in the front crossed the seam there."

Correct, no ties in the back. It might pull as you mention, but it shouldn't if it fits well.

"I have an alteration question. It appears that we both have the same body shape and need to adjust patterns. I get BWF and like some of the patterns but they are too small, Do you ever grade these patterns up (or maybe you don't need to do this)? Do you use your software for this or do you do slide and pivot--or just what?"

If the pattern is simple, I would probably copy it with my software or morph the style elements I like onto a TNT pattern that I know fits. Otherwise, I have graded up using the method described in a past Threads article, where you increase around the pattern the same amount as what's between one size and another. As WOF are multi-sized, it's easy to see how and where one size increases/decreases from the next.

"Where and how do you get Octobre Woman? Do you also sew from World of Fashion?"

First, yes I sew from WOF. It's one of my favorite pattern sources. You can purchase a single copy and/or subscribe to OW directly from the Ottobre website (click here). Click on "English" at the left for the English version of the site. There are other sources but this is what I did. Their service is great.

"What brand machines are those? I see your washing-machine is a front loader."

My washer and dryer are LG. I've had them about 18 months now and I LOVE them! This is my first front-loader washer and I'm a convert.

"I love the contrast color on that top. It's perfect. Will it work with any of the previously made capris or the new skirts?"

Thank you, and yes. As you have probably seen by now, it goes great with my coral capris. I also have a skirt on my to-make list and it should go with that too.

"As usual your top is beautiful. I have a question on the coverstitching of the neck-binding. How do you start and end the binding in a circle, as on the neckline of a tee or top? Or do you finish the neck off before joining the shoulders?"

Thank you! Just to be clear, the latest tee with the lime neckband is NOT a binding applied with the coverstitch machine, although I did topstitch it with the CS after it was sewn on. To answer the question … I leave one shoulder seam unsewn, apply the binding with one of the binders, and then sew/serge the other shoulder seam. If you look at your RTW tees, you'll see that most of them are done this same way.